CA Smog Legal

[Bubbaluv]

I'm looking to update my 77 in CA to get it 100% smog certified. Is anyone in CA familiar with the parts i need to do this? I'm assuming i need a catalytic converter and will probably replace the entire exhaust system at the time. I was also thinking while I'm at it I'll probably swap over to aftermarket EFI as I assume this will help overall fuel efficiency and help with the smog.

Anything else i need to look at replacing?

thanks

 

[Bullitt94]

A different glove box cover with an older VIN and a title to match is all you need...

 

[Bubbaluv]

well that sounds too easy

 

[gtnorga]

Ya want to be careful with the whole glove box thing vin thing. I recall that it can get you 5 years and $5000. I was looking in to it until I read the law. I understand that Broncos have a frame vin, glove box vin and I don't recall the year that the door post vin tag came in. My 76 has all 3 although I'm still looking for the frame one. Worst case scenario I know, but why risk 5 years for a car; and if you go to sell it, you pass that problem on to someone else. Not cool.

Option B is to swap to a 75 or earlier frame with matching glove box....move all your 1977 stuff to the earlier frame and go with whatever engine you want. Lots of work but looks like a frame off resto to which you gave it 77 options.

Option C is the motor swap which you will have to go to a referee to validate and give you a little tag. The trick is that all the smog stuff from the motor year you're installing has to come over to the Bronco and it must work with no check engine codes or lights. I've read that in some cases a ref will require the transmission from the same year car the engine came from. Best bet is to make an appointment with a referee to discuss your plan and get a feel for their take on smog laws and rules. Maybe less work than option B. Kolibar Kustoms in Tustin can Modify a mustang harness to be smog legal and fit in the Bronco if you go with a mustang 5.0 motor. RJM can build you a new smog legal harness. Kolibar Kustom option is more economical. (shameless plug for my SoCal Bronco brother)

Option D-register it in a more smog friendly state but it will look weird if you show your California DL and an out of state registered Bronco during a traffic stop. Could still force you to any of the other options.

Option E- Sell it out of state and buy a 75 or older.

Option F- register it for off road only.

Option G - go stock

 

[broncnaz]

Pretty much need any emissions equipment that was orginally on the engine. the basics are usually EGR, EVAP system, cat. Some also had thermoactor systems. Usually if the equipment is in place you'll pass the visual part as having required equipment even if it doesnt work. Then as long as you pass the sniffer your good.
Swapping to EFI doesnt always equal out to better mileage you might gain 1-2mpg unless your current engine is way out of tune or just plain worn out. but should take care of the sniffer test as long as it has all its require emissions equip in place.

 

[Bubbaluv]

I'm really looking to make it legit so ya, glove box switch isn't an option.

B is probably too extensive for what i am looking. I have family in Oregon and in a pinch i could actually "sell" them the vehicle, but that would probably a last resort since that would be a pain going forward. Although the registration in Oregon is dirt cheap ;D


C & G are what i have been considering, what is involved in going stock?

 

[Broncobowsher]

Going stock depends on what is still there and what isn't. Last I heard the smog check places can run your VIN and tell you what they are looking for. Everything from original air cleaner to AIR injection. Gas cap test and evaporative emissions testing. If you are truely missing everything then the EFI swap from a complete car may not be that bad of an idea and may be cheaper then the nickle and dime all the little parts would cost.

 

[gtnorga]

302, Smog pump, air injection to the heads, EGR system, 2 barrel carb, heat riser to the air cleaner from the passenger exhaust manifold, cat, single exhaust, charcoal canister evap system and all the plumbing for those systems.
I'm working towards option C. It has similar equipment requirements, dual exhaust but more power and more options for smog legal aftermarket power adder parts.
See this link for the BAR http://www.bar.ca.gov/80_BARResources/02_SmogCheck/Referee_Centers.html
One more caveat I recall was whether it was a California model vs a Federal model. I'm not sure if there were additional restrictions for California Broncos in 77.

 

[Rustytruck]

The Mustang swap probably would be the eaziest since you can buy a whole mustang and swap the motor and all the smog parts then dump the mustang.
As for the stock 1977 motor you need to know if the Bronco was origionally a California delivered truck or a 49 state federal truck through out the years there were differences in what the Broncos had on them if they were delivered in California. Does you motor have the emissions sticker on the valve cover on the front drivers side? That would help you in identifying some of the emissions stuff. 49 state trucks were pretty basic in equipment but California smogged trucks were evolving every year are not the same so some parts are very unique and almost impossible to find. I would start with getting the 1977 ford factory truck service manual and hope to find the systems used in there. The manual was printed by Helms and there are several volumes to the set for each year. Unfortuneatly it also covers all of the Ford trucks and not just the Bronco. alot of the smog parts them selves can be swapped between the ford product lines but most of the brackets are Bronco specific. If your still into this project come April come down to the Fabulious ford show at Knotts Berry farm with camera, pad and pencil and check out some rigs there. Here you are best likly to find a stock rig with all the parts on it.

 

[76Broncofromhell]

VIN swap isn't legal. Frame VINs are hard to see, as there is only one and it's above the passenger side frame. If you swapped to Ford F-250 shock towers, you've probably already welded over half of it. The biggest issue is going to get it certified. I've had a few VINs certified by a lien agent, which is worth the weight in gold compared to going to the DMV. Again, I wasn't breaking the law, I had to get the VIN certified on a few vehicles that hadn't been registered in over 5 years. The DMV can take hours to do.

I've dropped a 5.0L Mustang engine in my Toyota and gotten it past the referee. It's not that bad to do provided you take your time. Make sure to get everything out of the Mustang (including the evap canister, and air purge vacuum canister inside of the fenderwell). Don't forget the factory H-pipe. You will have to modify it a little, but your exhaust has to follow a similar route of the Mustang (which is cool because it means you get dual exhaust).

Frankly I think this is the best option. The Bronco has more than enough room under the hood, and the stock Mustang stuff isn't too tough to wire.

1977 302s had a BHP rating of 140, so I don't think I would be spending any money trying to make that turd faster. Given what it costs to track down stock parts for one of those things, and how many 5.0 engines are around, I would go with the 5.0. My opinion is biased as I can't leave things alone, and stock annoys me.

Here's a 5.0 swap that I did on my Toyota if you are interested:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=957748

 

[Bubbaluv]

Thanks everyone for the info. Sounds like i have some work ahead of me, but its work i was planning on anyway. I recently bought the truck and got a smog cert from the seller (don't ask me how, i didn't) so I have a year and half to work out the details. Now all i have to do is balance the budget of the interior work i want to do with the need to move forward on the engine and exhaust work.

 

[Rustytruck]

Before you replace the cats check to see if there is supposed to be a warm up flapper valve after the exhaust manifold before the cat on the driver side. This is needed and checked on my 74 when they were doing testing. I dont know if the 77 had to have it I'd hate to have a new exhaust system installed and then need that valve later.

 

[gtnorga]

I recommend getting the engine legal first. A year and a half happens pretty quick and it would stink to have it be a paper weight because you got the dreaded smog test only station renewal letter and have to non-op it. That way you can still enjoy driving it around while you do the interior. Another one of my lessons learned is the RJM harness sold by most of the vendors did not have the egr connector built in. It had the bypass so with that harness you won't pass the visual inspection. If you decide on the new harness vs the rebuilt, call RJM AND describe your needs.

 

[Bubbaluv]

I'm a little nervous to take it now and have them shut me down on the spot. is there any risk they could revoke my existing registration?

 

[ahansen_1985]

Dang I'm glad I live in a small town in Oregon! I don't have to worry one bit about smog!


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=45.109751,-123.202577
1966,351,m5od,205....3.5" lift, 2" body, 35's,

 

[Bubbaluv]

Dang I'm glad I live in a small town in Oregon! I don't have to worry one bit about smog!

Ya, I grew up in Eugene so I know what you're sayin. My parents are still in Oregon so worst case I'll "sell" it to them while I work it out.

 

[broncnaz]

I'm a little nervous to take it now and have them shut me down on the spot. is there any risk they could revoke my existing registration?

I guess there is always a risk but if your taking down to verify required equipment and your registration is not due I dont think they would revoke your current registration. but I would do more research and not take it down until your registration is about up. by that time you'll probably have most of what is required.

 

[ren71]

just an FYI, CA law states that the previous owner/seller is responsible for any smog requirements and cannot legally sell you a car that doesn't pass smog. The seller is ALWAYS legally required to fix it before selling it and the courts are always on the buyer's side. There's no such thing as an AS-IS (e.g. missing smog equipment) sale when it comes to selling a whole car.

 

[broncnaz]

That probably wont work so well once you've bought it and it had certification with it. The seller would just say the buyer must have removed it.

 

[ren71]

That probably wont work so well once you've bought it and it had certification with it. The seller would just say the buyer must have removed it.

In CA (assuming he bought it in cali), a car sold always has to have a valid/recent smog certificate. If it didnt, it was an illegal sale and the seller doesn't have a legal leg to stand on; you can get a refund, make him fix it, etc. Not many people are aware of this so they pay for the cost of getting it smog legal though it's the previous owner's responsibility ALWAYS, unless you wanna be a nice guy and let him slide.