Crank sensor needed, 3 wire, Hall Effect. Something US made?

[nvrstuk]

Anybody have a source for an easily replaceable (if ever needed) 3, wire Hall Effect crank sensor? I've been referred to a good one but if I could find a brand more readily available? Probably isn't a thing as OE in this case but if there was???

I would like something that I could find at a local parts store in a little town or an overnight ship if at all possible.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nk...AjSD7NHhHDF-6XppIJgi_PD--zqCW0QhoCqC0QAvD_BwE

Thanks

 

[duffymahoney]

What about using the stock explorer one?

 

[rjrobin2002]

Price motorsports make them, I have one.

 

[rjrobin2002]

Here you go

 

[nvrstuk]

Crank sensor, I did run the 2 wire cam and crank ones for years but both 2 wire

Did the Explorer ever have a 3 wire Hall Effect crank sensor?

 

[nvrstuk]

Price motorsports make them, I have one.

3 wire Hall Effect crank sensor? Looked at their webpage and didn't see any crank sensors??

 

[rjrobin2002]

I'm sorry, I guess that's a camshaft sensor I got from them. It says hall effect on it.

 

[ba123]

Explorer is VR, not Hall.

You're handy, why don't you take the stock explorer wheel and just like I made my Cam sync, make a crank sensor. You just need to make or buy a mount for it.

Although, you'd prob need to embed magnets in the wheel...not sure. Why do you need Hall for the crank?

I did look at the Pro-M one as an option. I liked it due to the slim size.
https://www.promracing.com/36-1-crank-trigger-kit-for-ford-windsor-engines.html

 

[ba123]

This reader is Hall:
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/crank-position-sensor-hall-effect-tab-mount/

This one?
https://www.holley.com/products/fue...d_sensors/sensors/crank_sensors/parts/556-115

 

[lars]

Hall prox sensors are pretty generic. Main things are environmental protection suitable for the location, and input voltage.

The Holley sensor that Ben linked should work fine, and it will likely have a signal that the TerminatorX expects. I'm guessing that it would be entirely compatible with the stock Explorer 5.0 trigger wheel.

Seems like it would be easy enough to make a bracket for it that bolts on to the Explorer timing cover in the OEM location, assuming you could get Holley to just sell you the sensor. Connector appears to be a weatherpack or similar so finding a mating connector should be simple.

 

[ba123]

Brian, I just looked at the Term X settings and it sure looks like you'd have no problem just using the Explorer stock crank trigger.

I had to figure out all the stuff to make it work with Megasquirt and it shouldn't be any different in Term X.

At 9:54 of this video:

Watch that.

I'm more than happy to help.

Here are my MS settings for COP, Explorer Crank Trigger, MSD 2348 Hall sensor in my Cam sync.

 

[ba123]

It really just wants to know how many teeth and either what tooth it's on when the engine is at TDC. (MS wants to know how many degrees tooth#1 is at TDC and that's the 41 in my settings), which you then verify with a timing light and static timing to make perfectly match.

 

[nvrstuk]

Thannks for looking that up !!

All I know is I am looking at the Hall Effect for the crank because it was highly recommended for a clean signal. The VR signal is not as clean and I have read and talked to another CB guy that said they had problems with the VR signal and went Hall Effect and all problems gone. Maybe the problems were with the cam synch and not the crank sensor but I do know Hall effect was recommended for it.

 

[ba123]

I would say that if done right, you don't have to worry. The only thing around that will give interference is the plug wires. Terminate them properly and route them away and you're good if the wiring is shielded. I've read a lot of guys have a problem with interference cause they do their own plug wires and don't terminate them properly and cause their own interference.

Actually, now that I think about it, the custom wires I got terminate at the coil end, so no worry at all.

I used these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-31193

As I was saying, I noticed interference from my old school timing light. It was the kind that had a spring that you attach to the end of the spark plug, connect the aligator clip from the timing light, and then the plug wire on the end of that spring. Spark wire completely open and that was #1 of course, which is right next to the crank sensor.

Save yourself the headache and just go with Explorer stuff that you already have and works.

 

[ba123]

The other thing is, if you use a different one, you likely have to space everything out. The only one that you might not have to is the Pro-M cause it only moves 1/10" out, but that was enough for my PS belt to come off and give me an extremely large headache.

 

[lars]

I would say that if done right, you don't have to worry. The only thing around that will give interference is the plug wires. Terminate them properly and route them away and you're good if the wiring is shielded. I've read a lot of guys have a problem with interference cause they do their own plug wires and don't terminate them properly and cause their own interference.

Actually, now that I think about it, the custom wires I got terminate at the coil end, so no worry at all.

I used these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-31193

As I was saying, I noticed interference from my old school timing light. It was the kind that had a spring that you attach to the end of the spark plug, connect the aligator clip from the timing light, and then the plug wire on the end of that spring. Spark wire completely open and that was #1 of course, which is right next to the crank sensor.

Save yourself the headache and just go with Explorer stuff that you already have and works.

^^^ this. Best idea yet.

 

[pcf_mark]

I have MegaSquirt and had a home made mount on the stock 289 front cover holding the OEM Explorer sensor until I did an Explorer serp conversion. That set up picked up electrical noise from the plugs I assume. I would get funky sensor reading and ignition drop out. I bought shielded alarm system cable at HomeDepot for $.35 a foot and used that for VR pickup and the problem went away. The Ford sensors are absolutely bullet proof it would take a lot to convince me to use anything else. Cheap and you can get a new one anywhere.

 

[nvrstuk]

I am pretty sure I cut/pulled/yanked my shielded wire for the Exploder crank sensor out when removing my EFI harness with the EDIS and A9l. OK, enough positive responses from crazy, but knowledgeable guys here so I will call Holley Tech and ask if I'm losing gaining anything from a tuning standpoint.

I would REALLY like to keep the Ford OE sensors as anything OE seems to last about 5x longer than the best aftermarket electronics.

 

[nvrstuk]

Well, found two emails that I saved from guys wiring TermX's in and changed to Hall Effect crank sensors because they had tuning issues. Now, I have no idea if the 2 wire setups they were using weren't shielded as well, if the sensors weren't good OR if a 3 wire is that much better.

Holley was closed of course. Missed 'em by 13 minutes

 

[ba123]

It makes no difference in your tune. All it does is tell the ecu which cylinder to fire.

I posted on my cam sync thread a pic of my log of both cam and crank. Doesn't get any cleaner.

Stock ford explorer. Stop thinking so much. Those that couldn't make it work did something wrong.

Post in thread 'Need a custom Cam Sync! Any machine guys want to help? Advice? Please? CNP Ignition and MS3.'
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/t...ease-cnp-ignition-and-ms3.318148/post-3524089