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Hub snap ring removal

Colliedog3

Jr. Member
Joined
May 22, 2017
Messages
55
Loc.
Waxhaw NC
I have a 1973 bronco with a Dana 44 and wildhorses disc brake conversion with warn hubs. I am tearing it back apart to regear and can’t seem to get the large outer snap ring out. any tips or tricks?
 

Bronco_007

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2022
Messages
132
Loc.
Nature Coast, FL
I used a pick. Looks like a dental pick; came in a cheap pack at Harbor Freight. Needed something small to get under the open end and then it slides right out.
 

JSBX

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2010
Messages
612
Do yourself a favor and get a pick set. They are also good for removing the lock ring that is between the spindle nuts.
 

jamesroney

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2007
Messages
1,736
Loc.
Fremont, CA
Once you get them out, be sure to bend the tips INWARD slightly so they're easier to get next time.
I grind the tips with a reverse chamfer so that you can get a pick under them. Similar idea to @Steve83 but no bending, and it always clears the hub body OD. Takes less than 30 seconds on a bench grinder. I do it every time, especially on new retainers.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,641
Colliedog can you tell whether or not it's the traditional wire ring style? Or might it be the later flat-spring type that has multiple layers?
The latter type often came with, or still comes with(?) aftermarket hubs.

They're supposed to be easier to manipulate, but I have not used them often. Never had any real trouble with the wire style, but those mods mentioned by the others sound like they would definitely make life easier still.

Paul
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,939
I grind the tips as well. Makes it easy to get a pick or small screwdriver under the end at a later date. Maintains the full circle of contact.
 

bulletpruf

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2019
Messages
419
Loc.
San Antonio, TX
Colliedog can you tell whether or not it's the traditional wire ring style? Or might it be the later flat-spring type that has multiple layers?
The latter type often came with, or still comes with(?) aftermarket hubs.

They're supposed to be easier to manipulate, but I have not used them often. Never had any real trouble with the wire style, but those mods mentioned by the others sound like they would definitely make life easier still.

Paul

Just installed Yukon hubs in a Dana 60 (1990 F350) and it came with the multi-layer flat spring.

@Colliedog3 - sometimes I can get these with just a screwdriver, but I usually end up with a screwdriver and a small pick - if you check out the video I just posted -- scroll to 3:40 -- you can get an idea -
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,641
Another great video bulletpruf. Thanks for posting.
Just a heads-up at least for the Bronco/half-ton crowd (but probably the same for the HD 44 and Dana 60 crowd). You usually do not need to remove that small Phillips head screw to remove the lockouts.
In fact when using this type of lockout it's easier if you don't. It's only recommended by the factory (Warn in this case) to remove after it's removed from the vehicle, and only when doing a full service of the lockout itself.
The screw is there to retain the inner splined hub, sliding collar and spring within the outer splined aluminum slug, as an assembly.

So if all is working as it should be (no buggered bearings or splines or such) you only need to remove the inner snap-ring (if present) from the end of the axle, and the outer lock ring from the hub, and the entire lockout comes out as a single assembly.

Paul
 
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