Ignition Switch (starter) Wiring Sanity Check

[1buckeyefan1]

So i've been chasing a grinding noise in my Explorer swap as chronicled here. I've narrowed it down to my mini pmgr starter trying to engage anytime I shift it across P or N. I was testing it yesterday and I believe I finally killed my ignition switch as my engine suddenly shut down and won't turn over. While I wait for my new ignition switch to arrive, i've been reviewing all of my wiring.

Here is how I have my starter solenoid wired (per diagrams):


And here is how I have my mini pmgr starter wired:


Which both look correct per the diagrams I have reviewed.

Which leads me to believe my issue is with my ignition switch. I originally had my painless harness wired up to the ignition switch. When I added EFIGuy's harness, I removed the #919 wire and replaced it with EFIGuy's pink wire.. but according to the ignition switch diagram I found from a Viperwolf post, that terminal is +12v in run?? Which leads me to believe that i'm constantly sending 12v to the PCM and hence to the starter? Is this the source of my grinding noise from the starter trying to engage anytime it's not in R/D (since NSS would block it?)

 

[Viperwolf1]

That pink wire says "hot in start only", which indicates it need to go to the terminal that is hot in start only. I think you have it on the wrong terminal. The diagrams can be deceptive if you don't know if you're looking at the front or rear of the connector.

 

[1buckeyefan1]

That pink wire says "hot in start only", which indicates it need to go to the terminal that is hot in start only. I think you have it on the wrong terminal. The diagrams can be deceptive if you don't know if you're looking at the front or rear of the connector.

Yep, that's exactly what I was thinking (hoping)..as it should make sense of the grinding noise you've been helping me troubleshoot in the other thread. I pulled that diagram from one of your old posts.. thanks for contributing so much knowledge to the community.

I'm still a little puzzled though as to why the painless diagram clearly shows the #919 wire on that terminal (closest to the ribbon coming off #932) going to the NSS/Starter Solenoid? That's what prompted me to hook it to this one in the first place. While I was searching today, i found countless others showing the same on various mustang forums.

 

[Viperwolf1]

I think the Painless diagram is showing the back of the switch and the other diagram is showing the mating side of the connector, so they are mirrored.

 

[1buckeyefan1]

That pink wire says "hot in start only", which indicates it need to go to the terminal that is hot in start only. I think you have it on the wrong terminal. The diagrams can be deceptive if you don't know if you're looking at the front or rear of the connector.

Bummer, I confirmed with a test light that the painless diagram is correct (and I previously had the pink on the 12v terminal in start).

Now I'm still not sure what is causing my starter to engage in P & N...

Not to mention, after it died yesterday, i can't even get the starter to turn over even w/ the new ignition switch. I get a click at the starter solenoid, but no starter action. something is interrupting it (and caused the motor to spontaneously shut down yesterday). No fault codes in the PCM either.

Update: got it started again. I killed my new (remanufactured) Motorcraft starter yesterday.. I found the old crusty mini starter that came with the donor and it fired back up.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Why not test at the neutral safety switch itself? If you have constant 12V feeding it you'll need to trace it back to see where it's coming from.

 

[1buckeyefan1]

Why not test at the neutral safety switch itself? If you have constant 12V feeding it you'll need to trace it back to see where it's coming from.

I think i finally got it figured out. I'm pretty sure i had a bad ignition switch (I had replaced it with a new one from a vendor). Pretty sure I had it wired up correctly, but when i started it up, the starter would remain engaged (wouldn't fully spring back to on). Then as I shifted across gears, the NSS would block it from engaging in R or D.. hence why I'd hear the grind in P & N. At least that's the best I can figure out at this point. I put the old starter back on as well as a new ignition switch and the grind hasn't returned yet. Crossing my fingers...

The bummer is that I killed a new Motorcraft mini starter in the process. I think it finally kicked the bucket and then stalled the engine out as it was engaged..