Lowering Bronco - taking out BL

[MPG_Bronco]

go to post -------> http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2541011#post2541011 for BL removal










I want to know what is involved in lowing my bronco from the 5.5 SL to a 2.5 SL...

I believe it's a WH's kit, with f-250 shock mounts, long arm travel (and relocation kit) or extended radius arms.

I have 35inch tires on 15x12.5 rims, I know I will probably have to cut the front fenders, and trim the rear. I would like to keep tire size.

would springs and 'smaller' shocks be all I need to change the height?

would steering need to be changed? or re-aligned?

thank you in advance
Richard

 

[smokinjoe]

I'm not familiar w/ that kit or EB lifts really, but at the very LEAST, yes you would need an alignment.

 

[MPG_Bronco]

I think you're right I would need to at least get a wheel alignment

anyone else have ideas

 

[strokers]

Readjust track bar and drive lines is all I can think.

 

[Myllo73]

You will definitely have to get an alignment, shorten the tracking bar, possibly have to put in shorter driveshafts, shorter shocks, and I think that's it.

 

[WASP1971]

Why in the world would you want to go from a 5.5 to a 2.5 if you still want to run 35's? If your Bronco runs straight down the road I would not mess with it. Your extended radius arms probably won't work with a 2.5. You'll have to replace your C bushings, definitely trac bar and steering link geometry changes. Please elaborate on your motives

 

[MPG_Bronco]

I bought the truck with the 5.5, never wanted the 5.5 lift, but did want a lift. and the rest of the truck is MORE than I wanted or would have settled for. just take the 5.5 to a 2.5 and I should be where I wanted if not better.

I have 4.56 gears behind a c4, so the 35inch tires are to help me from having to change my gear ratio to 4.11

it does run great, but it sure is wabbly at 65+mph and I don't go over 75 EVER, just too scary. the lower ride will help my confidence, not to go faster, but to feel safer.


so...
springs
shocks
track bar(s)
drive shafts (possibly)
c bushings
steering (pitman arm?)

I'll get pics of what I'm dealing with... maybe that will help

 

[WASP1971]

Dude, if you can go 65+mph on 35's you've got something special there. I'm running the stockish 29's with the 2.5 sl and 50-55 tops for me.

 

[nlped]

Pictures pictures pictures!!!

 

[MPG_Bronco]

here are some pictures of what is on there. sorry about the poor lighting

 

[SHX669]

If you're going to "drive " it I'd ditch the 5.5" lift as soon as I could.
35s with a 2.5" lift will require only a little trimming .
Our '76 with 35s and 3.5" lift isn't too scary at 70mph and the '68 with 2.5" lift and 33s rides handles better at 70 than it does at 60 . Usually happens that way when you make them more "streetable"
SHX

 

[rguest3]

5.5 down to 2.5

2.5" Lift with Extended Radius Arms??? Tell WH you have these when ordering Kit. Different bushings than in Kit maybe???

New Springs Front and Rear and C-bushings - WH Kit
Shorten Adjustable Trac Bar.
Shorter Drive Shafts? - Will have to measure for correct length.
Remove Trac Bar Riser.
I would add Steering Stabilizer.

Alignment

Most 35s are not even close to actual 35" when mounted on truck. Clearance should be good with Cut fenders. Already have gears for 35s?

 

[bohntr28]

It looks like you have plenty of adjustment in you track bar and steering linkage. I would try and straighten the tie rod though. It looks like someone got into the rocks with it. Like metioned before, you may have to shorten the drive shafts and you will most likely have to cut your front fenders and change out your C bushings. Cool rig! I think I've seen it before.

 

[Mark]

Looks like you have 2 1/2" of body lift.
Since you have extended radius arms, I would do 3 1/2" suspension lift with stock C bushings, and either no body lift or only 1"
no problem with 35" and that setup

 

[MPG_Bronco]

Rolling forward!!!!

swapped my 35's for 33's so I can now go with the suspension drop.

Swapped the front coil springs, but have a few questions

I have a f250 power steering box, it sits inside the frame and drops 4-6 inches lower than the frame, the pit-man arm is straight, no drop in it (might even angle 'up') haven't moved my steering yet.
what issues will I have with this f250 box and it being so low? am I safe with the 2.5 SL?

I read on these forums, some with 2.5 SL go either way of a track bar, some extended and some run stock with the 2.5.... I took my track bar drop bracket off. should I have kept it on?

currently have James Duff Heim steering, it has a saddle in Tie Rod Link. the Tie Rod Link is bent, PO hit some rocks, I've read heim is great and very dependable but this is no longer a rock crawler so I probably won't bend it again. I can either replace the tie Rod end, and keep the heim setup, or go to a Chevy TRO conversion. Driven Auto here in phoenix has a kit with 281 DOM tubes and 1 ton Chevy tie rods. I'm at a cross of what to do, should I stick with the heim, they work great even bent, no slop. or go with the Chevy TRO? in the end I have to get it straight. the TRO conversion from Driven Auto is fully adjustable, without disconnecting anything. but once set I can forget on either setup. I guess cheaper would be the tie-rod link replacement.

 

[Jdgephar]

Biggest issue to watch out for is bump steer. Based on the pictures above, that would have been a big issue before the change in lift you just did. The drag link is not parallel with the trac bar. Basically draw a line on your trac bar at each connection point, and a line on the drag link at each connection point. Those should be as parallel as possible.

http://bulletproofsteering.com/geometry.html

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=213658

 

[MPG_Bronco]

Help!!!

Jdgephar - you're right, thank you!!

I have an issue, and I don't know what do I do??

look at pictures... I need suggestions that allow me to keep my steering box. replacing the steering box is the last resort.

A)ream out pitman arm and install on top
B)convert to chevy linkage
c)??

the tie rod link is bent, so it has to be fixed, either replacement (stone crusher) or swap to chevy 1 ton TR's

 

[broncoradio]

I have a set of chevy 1 ton tie rod ends on my 1976 bronco with a 2.5 lift and they work perfectly, although my situation is a bit different I have a stock power steering, however, this should solve at lease some of your problems you are having, I purchased my kit from http://extremecustomparts.com/i-361...-44-1966-1975-bronco-1-1-2-d-o-m-dana-30.html, best of luck on your project!

 

[MPG_Bronco]

Would dropping the track bar with the old drop bracket AND switching the drag link to the top of the pitman arm be a solution? Think it would bind? I'm afraid I need a different box no matter what I do

 

[Yeller]

I would do a 2" drop bracket on the track bar and make an new pitman arm that makes the angles match with the draglink on top of it. By making the arm, it could be angled just a bit to make sure there is no bind.