No Such Thing As A Dumb Question

[Oldtimer]

Internet comment from 2001:
Wild Horses in Stockon CA. sells a twin Dana 20 setup for the EB. They call it 'Cold Duck'. they take a Dana 20 and modifie it by eliminating the front output and slipping it between the tranny and the existing t-case. They say it reguires a 2" body lift.

 

[CowboyGrin]

I will say, the Hellwig Sway bar kit has interior sleeves which seems like it gives it some structural integrity and my hope is that it would help reinforce that area. Also, the shock mounts I welded on from TBP also seemed to add some structural integrity to that area and realistically, how much stress are the shocks really putting on the frame? Would love to hear a success story on this setup as now you have me second guessing my install.

Hellwig’s interior sleeves do give me a bit more comfort. I’m using catfan’s rear shock mounts which have a larger attachment area at the frame similar to the TBP mounts. Even moving the rear axle back 1.25” using the u-bolt puts the end link frame attachment point right next to the shock mount welds. Seems closer than ideal but probably ok all things considered.

 

[EPB72]

Internet comment from 2001:
Wild Horses in Stockon CA. sells a twin Dana 20 setup for the EB. They call it 'Cold Duck'. they take a Dana 20 and modifie it by eliminating the front output and slipping it between the tranny and the existing t-case. They say it reguires a 2" body lift.

Jr coots {RIP| cold duck engineering originater..If I remember correctly from Fresno CA. area,,Design/ MFG sold to wildhorses,?,

 

[Sendero]

Hellwig’s interior sleeves do give me a bit more comfort. I’m using catfan’s rear shock mounts which have a larger attachment area at the frame similar to the TBP mounts. Even moving the rear axle back 1.25” using the u-bolt puts the end link frame attachment point right next to the shock mount welds. Seems closer than ideal but probably ok all things considered.

Interesting. Mine land more in front of the shock mount and my axle is centered on the leaf springs.

The circus looks like fun, a texas country music reference?

 

[CowboyGrin]

Interesting. Mine land more in front of the shock mount and my axle is centered on the leaf springs.

What did you use to determine your new location? I followed this due to the lack of any other available info.

The circus looks like fun, a texas country music reference?

Guilty. Also a quote from a college buddy that I believe (or would like to believe) Cody overhead us talking on campus shortly before their first album.

 

[Sendero]

What did you use to determine your new location? I followed this due to the lack of any other available info.


Guilty. Also a quote from a college buddy that I believe (or would like to believe) Cody overhead us talking on campus shortly before their first album.

I called and asked duff where to put the shock mounts and they told me 12” in front of the axle. Based on the link you provided, it looks like yours is 12 3/4”, which explains the difference.

Long live CCR!

 

[CowboyGrin]

I called and asked duff where to put the shock mounts and they told me 12” in front of the axle. Based on the link you provided, it looks like yours is 12 3/4”, which explains the difference.

That explains it. Hope mine aren’t too far forward especially after moving the axle back. Do you have Duff’s quick disconnect for the rear sway bar?

Good to see CCR still has a following. Saw Cody and the Departed play in October. He joked about how he and fans keep getting older.

 

[BlueSierra]

Is this my power steering pump? And if so is it just filled via the dipstick opening? Very new to this. Any help appreciated.


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[Speedrdr]

Yep, that’s a PS pump and that is the fill spout(?) for adding fluid.

Randy

 

[BlueSierra]

Yep, that’s a PS pump and that is the fill spout(?) for adding fluid.

Randy

Thanks Randy. So I assume it’s just a slow fill and check. Any specific fluid I should go for?


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[DirtDonk]

Yeah, the old original pumps were not known for their convenience with that small neck. Later pumps after 78 had a much larger neck.

Definitely need the right funnel, or a very steady hand! There are specific power steering fluids, but I don’t remember which one was recommended.
Might’ve been the same type-F transmission fluid, as in our original C4 automatics but I don’t know that.
Best to wait for someone that remembers for sure, or has a book handy.

 

[Speedrdr]

Power steering fluid is preferred, according to my 77 ford truck manual. If you have access to a 20cc syringe, that’s a whole lot less messy for filling…and it gives you the ability to fill a bit at a time.

R

 

[BlueSierra]

Power steering fluid is preferred, according to my 77 ford truck manual. If you have access to a 20cc syringe, that’s a whole lot less messy for filling…and it gives you the ability to fill a bit at a time.

R

That’s a good tip thanks.


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[Ihavea73]

Hi everyone - 1st post here. I have a new to me '73 that had quite a bit of work done under previous ownership. I have since had the engine replaced and added a larger fuel tank.
It has a horrible vibration/shake starting around 60 and then gets to its worst at 65. It stays the same up to 75 but I have not had it any faster. I did get the wheels balanced but that did not take care of the issue. What should my next steps be?

 

[Juiceman]

I seem to have the exact opposite brake problems as most on my '77. The rears seem to lock up too quickly and too touchy. I brought it to my local mechanic about 6 months ago and they advised the brakes were too tight and loosened them up. Fast forward and they are touchy again. I completely loosened the e brake cable to elminate that as an issue. My question is how often do you adjust your rear brakes especially to loosen them?

 

[ba123]

Hi everyone - 1st post here. I have a new to me '73 that had quite a bit of work done under previous ownership. I have since had the engine replaced and added a larger fuel tank.
It has a horrible vibration/shake starting around 60 and then gets to its worst at 65. It stays the same up to 75 but I have not had it any faster. I did get the wheels balanced but that did not take care of the issue. What should my next steps be?

That’s a hard one sometimes.

It could be alignment, could be driveshaft (although it would prob fail quickly—just a guess). I did have a driveshaft go out on my old f100 while I was on the fwy but no symptoms before it happened so prob not.

Sometimes, no matter how much you balance, a certain tire/wheel combo will never be right. I had that happen once. any chance you’ve got a spare set just to try?

 

[Yeller]

Hi everyone - 1st post here. I have a new to me '73 that had quite a bit of work done under previous ownership. I have since had the engine replaced and added a larger fuel tank.
It has a horrible vibration/shake starting around 60 and then gets to its worst at 65. It stays the same up to 75 but I have not had it any faster. I did get the wheels balanced but that did not take care of the issue. What should my next steps be?

Welcome aboard!
Vibrations can be difficult. There are a lot of things rotating. You mention tires, how old are they? They will have a date of manufacture, often tires that are more then 5 or 6 years old and been setting a lot vibrate, even perfectly balanced at the tire shop. And as mentioned previously some tire and wheel combinations vibrate, they just do.

The other thoughts are are the front lockout hubs locked? Is the transfer case in 2wd? Either if of those are in play, more than likely you will have vibrations. Also has the truck been lifted? Pinion angles could be off causing a vibration, we need a little more info.

Lastly it could have a worn driveshaft, joint, centering pin on the cv joint etc that can cause vibration as well.

Welcome aboard and we will help as best we can.

 

[NickC24]

I have one. I am running the explorer front dress but with a 28oz engine build. Im getting a balancer from damper dudes but my question is this. If the balancer has to be a certain OZ to balance everything how can you bolt on pulley/belt attachments and covers onto the balancer. Wouldn't that mess up the weight of the balancer and make it unusable. Not sure how that would work.

 

[Slowleak]

I seem to have the exact opposite brake problems as most on my '77. The rears seem to lock up too quickly and too touchy. I brought it to my local mechanic about 6 months ago and they advised the brakes were too tight and loosened them up. Fast forward and they are touchy again. I completely loosened the e brake cable to elminate that as an issue. My question is how often do you adjust your rear brakes especially to loosen them?

Rear brakes have “self adjusters” which adjust when you backup and apply the brakes. They should stay fairly well adjusted with normal use but you should never have to loosen them. You may have a problem with your brake proportioning valve. That could cause more pressure to the rear brakes than intended. The rear brakes should activate slightly before the front discs.
It can also be caused by contaminated shoes or the shoes hanging up on the backplate due to wear. Issues with front discs not working properly can make it seem that the rears are “touchy” also. That could be caused by a bad master cylinder, bad pads, caliper issues, or simply air in the lines.

 

[ba123]

I have one. I am running the explorer front dress but with a 28oz engine build. Im getting a balancer from damper dudes but my question is this. If the balancer has to be a certain OZ to balance everything how can you bolt on pulley/belt attachments and covers onto the balancer. Wouldn't that mess up the weight of the balancer and make it unusable. Not sure how that would work.

No, not the same thing. The balancer and flexplate/flywheel are balancing out the crankshaft only along with the things like its uneven surfaces, rods and pistons all attached to it flying every direction. All those other things just rotate. There isn’t anything to balance.