Oil pan drain plug gasket

[green61bug]

These are the plastic seals I mentioned... I'm not sure where I ordered them from but it was either Summit or Jegs I think. My oil pan is original and clean/smooth along with the original drain plug.

 

[chuck1022]

Thanks for the packaging pic. Makes it easier

 

[1970 Palmer]

These are the plastic seals I mentioned... I'm not sure where I ordered them from but it was either Summit or Jegs I think. My oil pan is original and clean/smooth along with the original drain plug.

X2, just like original seal.

 

[1970 Palmer]

since we solved that problem. Lets solve this one.

302 engine with 2150 1.08 venturi 2 barrel. first start of the day is always money, runs great, 14mpg, I would tell anyone that asked, the 2150 is great. It was tuned 3 or 4 years ago and has run great since.

It ran great until the last 4 months.

After driving it on the freeway (62mph, freeway and mph probably irrelevant), If i get to my destination and turn it off, it will restart immediately if necessary. If I try to start it after it sits a half hour, it just turns over and over and over...like it is flooded. if I wait an hour, it will spark right up with a twitch of the key.

Here is what I did to trouble shoot.
- when engine is just turning over, it definitely has spark
- it is not vapor locking , cause I can see fuel squirt when I manually operate carb.

Here is where it gets weird.

- I sprayed a bunch of brake cleaner down the carb , my thought was to evaporate the fuel and dry the plugs.....oddly it worked. It fumbled and stumbled and fired back to life.

could my carb just be dumping/leaking fuel into manifold and flooding engine in that specific time frame? but if I start it 8 hours later, the fuel flooded and evaporated and it starts normal?

any thoughts on this

Sounds like a hot soak problem. Yes, I grew up in Arizona, and it gets HOT. Since your talking about a 2150, I assume it a 76 or 77 model year? By that time they had sealed float bowels that were vented back into the sealed air cleaner. The fuel inside the the float bowel boils and the rich gas fumes flood the engine causing hard hot start issues.

Make sure you have a Bakelite spacer under the carb to isolate the heat travel up from the intake manifold. The next step if you still have problems is to drill a small 1/8" vent hole in the carb top to vent the bowel. The hole should be placed in the boss of metal angled back 45 degrees just like it was located from 1957 to the 1970's when they started using the little flapper valve to seal the float bowel during "open throttle". This fix would not be EPA approved, but it worked on many early day emission Fords.

 

[chuck1022]

Sounds like a hot soak problem. Yes, I grew up in Arizona, and it gets HOT. Since your talking about a 2150, I assume it a 76 or 77 model year? .

1977..correct

I just find it odd that after three years of daily driving it just started doing it now

 

[chuck1022]

https://www.edelblog.com/tech-tips/resolving-heat-soak

 

[chuck1022]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-60529

 

[DirtDonk]

Next time you have this issue, act like it's flooded and before you try cranking the next time, slowly push your pedal to the floor and hold it there floored. Crank the engine for several seconds straight. Do NOT pump the pedal. Do NOT let off the pedal. Just crank it until it starts.

If this works, then what you guys suspect is likely the case. If this does not work, then it might still be helped by Palmer's mod anyway.

I just find it odd that after three years of daily driving it just started doing it now

But it's a carburetor. This is what they do.
Three or four years (could it have been more?) is a LONG time between tweaks and tune-ups for a carbureted engine. Especially with modern fuels it seems.
So does not seem strange to me at all. In fact I'd have said that you had been lucky to see three years of consistent running without at least one little hiccup.

Could be lots of things. You might even see if the choke is closing during that half hour down time and creating another avenue for it being too rich to start.
Maybe check your ignition tuning as well.

But at least try the "flooded" trick to see if it acts any different.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[chuck1022]

Next time you have this issue, act like it's flooded and before you try cranking the next time, slowly push your pedal to the floor and hold it there floored. Crank the engine for several seconds straight. Do NOT pump the pedal. Do NOT let off the pedal. Just crank it until it starts.

If this works, then what you guys suspect is likely the case. If this does not work, then it might still be helped by Palmer's mod anyway.



But it's a carburetor. This is what they do.
Three or four years (could it have been more?) is a LONG time between tweaks and tune-ups for a carbureted engine. Especially with modern fuels it seems.
So does not seem strange to me at all. In fact I'd have said that you had been lucky to see three years of consistent running without at least one little hiccup.

Could be lots of things. You might even see if the choke is closing during that half hour down time and creating another avenue for it being too rich to start.
Maybe check your ignition tuning as well.

But at least try the "flooded" trick to see if it acts any different.

Good luck.

Paul

I will try it

 

[1970 Palmer]

Next time you have this issue, act like it's flooded and before you try cranking the next time, slowly push your pedal to the floor and hold it there floored. Crank the engine for several seconds straight. Do NOT pump the pedal. Do NOT let off the pedal. Just crank it until it starts.

If this works, then what you guys suspect is likely the case. If this does not work, then it might still be helped by Palmer's mod anyway.



But it's a carburetor. This is what they do.
Three or four years (could it have been more?) is a LONG time between tweaks and tune-ups for a carbureted engine. Especially with modern fuels it seems.
So does not seem strange to me at all. In fact I'd have said that you had been lucky to see three years of consistent running without at least one little hiccup.

Could be lots of things. You might even see if the choke is closing during that half hour down time and creating another avenue for it being too rich to start.
Maybe check your ignition tuning as well.

But at least try the "flooded" trick to see if it acts any different.

Good luck.

Paul

Yup, Paul is correct, it's possible to be many different things. You have to diagnose and track it down.

For example on my 1970 "roll over" project, I found that the choke tube was rusted off at the exhaust manifold (a very common problem). Since this is an "automatic thermostatic" choke, the spring would wind up the choke plate and start fine, but since it could not suck any exhaust heat into the choke housing the choke would stay on even after the engine warmed up.

We are spoiled by how easy it is to start and drive a computer controlled engine today. But back in the day, the day of carbs and points cars required lots of engine tune up maintenance. The dealership at which I worked had four techs that "only did" tune up and electrical work on 1960's and 1970's Fords. Plugs and Points lasted maybe 6000 miles (minor tune), a carb cleaning (major tune) at every other minor or 12,000 miles. But today we are upset because we had to replace my plugs on a F150 5.4L for the first time at 100,000 miles.

John

 

[sprdv1]

Good luck Chuck. Always something to decipher with these rigs.

 

[Rustytruck]

My hot soak problems went away with the change to a Quadrajet carburetor.

 

[chuck1022]

The Nostalgia part of me wants to keep the darn 2150 and just figure out what's going on thanks everybody for the input I might try the phenolic route to see if that cures it

 

[Rustytruck]

the problem got worse with the move to blended fuel. spacer will help a little but the biggest problem is the big front mounted fuel bowl on the carb hanging out in the heat. doesnt take much to heat the fuel. Run a fuel line sleeve too. move all heater hoses and other stuff off the sides of the engine between the fender wells to help under hood air flow.

 

[ugly74]

But back in the day, the day of carbs and points cars required lots of engine tune up maintenance. The dealership at which I worked had four techs that "only did" tune up and electrical work on 1960's and 1970's Fords. Plugs and Points lasted maybe 6000 miles (minor tune), a carb cleaning (major tune) at every other minor or 12,000 miles. But today we are upset because we had to replace my plugs on a F150 5.4L for the first time at 100,000 miles.

John

My dad had a '70 Torino cobra, with the solid lifter 429SCJ. Once a week, he'd be out there adjusting rockers!
It was fast, but finicky.

Just to stay on topic, I prefer solid copper washers. use it, anneal it, use it again! My old dodge truck has one that's practically an heirloom

 

[Me2carcrazy1]

So glad I saw this post. My drain plug wasn't "weeping" oil as much as it was crying oil. I did an oil change last weekend and put in new Dorman drain bolt with ribbed gasket. It is now bone dry and no more crying from the Bronco or me. We are both now happy!
Thank you all.