You only need one wire from the alternator B+ to the A terminal. Since you already have the yellow wire doing this, just remove the black/yellow wire, it's not needed.
Page 74 in the painless manual is the most helpful.
Thanks, I've studied that a lot, your explanations make a lot more sense.
"Looks good so far. I would run those same straps from the Aux battery and main battery to the negative connector block. You could also go from the alternator bracket (instead of main battery) to the negative connector block. "
I've updated Fig. B with #4 Red Circle. I was proposing this as neg battery connector. Is this what you were referring to as "negative connector block"?
"That will work, no real issues other than making sure the connections are all tight. I also see a jumper to a connection block, with one red wire attached. I don't see a fuse anywhere on that wire."
Correct, there will be 6 (+) leads connected, all with downstream fuses for their individual items: 6 relays from painless on two thermo resetting circuit breakers, 2 more for LED headlights with fuses in line, one to Vintage Air with fuse inline, and one to Sniper with fuse inline. Seems silly to have a fuse for that block when all lines are protected downstream. Am I needing a fuse there since it is exposed for safety purposes? How big? If I add all fuses down stream, that would be close to 150Amps. Isn't that overkill?
"I'm not really sure. Distance is always a good thing, in my opinion. My coil is mounted similar, but I don't have a Holley computer. Do you have enough room to rotate the coil 180 degrees? Then you can route the high volt wire around behind the solenoids away from the computer."
I have an email into Chris at EFIStystemPro, he knows Sniper well, hope to get answer from him. If not, and I get issues, I will move later. Is there any type of wire wrap or cable wrap that can decrease electrical interference? Like metal shielding? Hmm.
"Direct to the battery is better in case any connections come loose, simply because there are fewer connections. It will work the way you propose also."
There may be a way to mount the negative block with direct contact to fender instead of isolator. That could help.
Thx much for reply, I'm off to hard ware stores.
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Vrooom
Oops, did I cut one too many?
I was deleting the #957 wire to the (S) terminal, when I found that there were two #957 wires going to there. Both labeled #957, both state "ign module start signal source".
One was in the starter solenoid & maxi fuse loop, the other in ign module, but both are now clipped back for dead heading, can not identify which one was in which labelled group.
The "S" solenoid one I do not need, per previous discussion.
Do I need the 2nd one? For a start signal? Where to? And how do I discern which on is which? Seems really pointless to have two wires labelled the same, going to same terminal. I'm definitely missing something. Err. It's hot, time to go inside house. Ugh.
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Blast from the past in a post revival. Bronco Billy, Im doing the same wiring job, curious if you or anyone else had any conclusions and wrote down your final notes.
You won't need to connect 957 to the Sniper EFI, or to the starter solenoid post. It's only needed for the Duraspark module, which you are not using. 919 starts at your ignition switch, goes to the NSS, then comes back from the NSS and will provide 12V to the starter solenoid/relay (whatever your name preference is) on the "S" post (to start cranking the engine) when the transmission is in neutral, or the clutch pushed in.
#956 black/red should be the 12v positive to the reverse circuit. It's spliced from the orange/yellow turn signal flasher. There should be another #956 black/red that goes to the reverse lights. The reverse switch will have two terminals, and one end of the 956 goes to one terminal, and the other end of the 956 goes to the other terminal on the switch. The reverse switch should have two #956 black/red wires on it only.
NO! Connect it to either the battery or the battery side of the starter solenoid/relay. Do not connect wire 915 to anything either!
Yes, do not use the #960 red wire.
999 and 923 are the same electrical connection. They are the coil - wire. You can use either one to connect to the "coil -" wire on the sniper EFI wiring. I think the Sniper comes with it's own wires to use, so you can probably just delete 999 and 923. If you have a tachometer, you can use either 999 or 923 for the tach signal.
Correct
Not needed, but you can use it for anything you want 12V with the key in RUN. Maybe a CB or ham radio, USB charging port/Cig. lighter, running lights, etc.
See above
Correct
