Parking Brake Equalizer

[Torkman66]

There are several threads on this subject. Didn’t pay much attention until I started the process of installing all the parking brake components. It’s actually a great and simple system. Only issue is the design of the equalizer bar that the two brake cables connect to and the brake rod pulls. Several folks have complained about how the cables do not want to stay in their designated place. Further, the rounded back side of the bracket is not a great place to tighten down a nut for adjustments. Interestingly, there are several variations of the equalizer bracket, some better than others. My stock bracket had all of the problems above. Some have added zip ties to keep the cables from migrating to the center of the bracket. Others have squeezed the bracket together to keep the lead end from moving out of its socket. The zip ties are temporary and a bit questionable and if you squeeze the bracket tighter, getting it apart is very difficult. So, I made a new one. Super easy, took less than 1 hour, and solves all the above problems.

I used a 3:4” square tube. I cut it to 5 inches. Drilled a center hole all the way through it for the rod. 3/4” in from each end I drilled a hole just large enough for the lead cable end to fit into.

Then I used a cutoff wheel and made slots from those two holes across the top and half way down the back side.

Painted it and installed.

Perfect centering, cables cannot move toward center, and rod nuts tighten down against a flat surface. Done.

 

[DirtDonk]

Yeah, yeah yeah. But I bet it’s not DOT approved!
Pretty slick. Was that you that posted up about the problem not long ago? If not, what style was yours?
I never had that problem with mine, but I wonder if the problem really started with the different style, or if it was an occasional problem with every style used.
I know Broncos had at least two of the styles used, and maybe three. Don’t know when the changes occurred though.

 

[Speedrdr]

I see some of this happening on my 77 in the near future. That is one slick modification right there! Thanks for sharing.

Randy

 

[Torkman66]

I have not posted about this issue prior but read several posts from others with similar issues. There appears to be 3 different bars. The 66-68 had 2 different types, both seem superior to the 69 and forward models. The Ford trucks also used a differant one for same application. Here is the one I had that was stock with my 72. It suffered from poor design as you can see. If the detent where the lead balls sit is not deep enough, the cable works its way toward the center. While it cannot come out due to the rod going through that center hole, it creates an impalance between the two cable pulls. IOW, it fails to "equalize."

 

[DirtDonk]

I’ll have to look again, but I think that’s the same one I have.

 

[jamesroney]

I’ll have to look again, but I think that’s the same one I have.

@Torkman66 the one from the 97-06 Wrangler works pretty good too. Costs $11.99 brand new.

 

[Torkman66]

@jamesroney good call. That one would work much better than the stock one for sure. But then I would have to find something else to fiddle around making

 

[sprdv1]

@jamesroney good call. That one would work much better than the stock one for sure. But then I would have to find something else to fiddle around making

There's "Got" to be something worth fiddling with lol

 

[chrlsful]

wanna get rid of the J handle / foot peddle. Just tear it offa the kick/dash’n throw away.
Get a modern single handle w/release button. Not sure it’d go on the tunnel like modern
but it sure could @ aux tank switch, floor step down, between my legs. Have it pull up
toward out board so my right hand can still work other controlls. It means a right angle
to current cabeling or other moving parts. I think a axel/wheel (overhead garage door
track wheel?) and it’s bracket or other wheel might wrk? Above floor re-engineer, below
floor same ol? Or toss it all and geta Line Lock (not legal for some states on rd use) ?