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Steering issues on 74 Sport (need help)

DirtDonk

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Nov 3, 2003
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47,641
The drop track bar bracket is also used to center the axle.
It basically puts the bar back to where it would’ve been at stock height. Or fairly close.
The adjustable track bar allows for fine-tuning, and for the previously mentioned ease of installation.
The drop arm also helps get your steering equal in both directions, along with the re-centering of the axle.
Once all those things are done, there really shouldn’t be any difference between left and right. At least not very noticeable.

And yes, the non-indexed arm lets you fine tune that aspect as well.
 

67sport

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Nov 27, 2010
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Vancouver Island, Canada
As usual, Paul (Dirtdonk} has covered a lot of items to look at and he's spot on. The wiggle test with second person can really show what's going on. Take your time with that test to find anything that's moving.
 

m_m70

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Jun 14, 2001
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1,486
Loc.
Pacifica, CA
I went with the dropped pitman arm and dropped tac bar bracket with my 2.5" lift. Also used 7* C bushings and adjustable trac bar.
I can't say enough about having drag link and trac bar parallel and steering box centered.

Also, it may just be the angle of the pics but it looks to me that your toe in is more toe out. When you replaced the tie rod and drag link, how did you set your toe in?? I know with my tire size (same as yours) it likes more toe in than stock. Mines at 5/16 toe in and I haven't had tire wear issues on any of my tires.

Lastly while your running around under your truck testing all these things, take a torque wrench and make sure the REAR U-bolts are tight.
 

DirtDonk

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Yes, toe-in can make a huge difference in dirtiness or twitchiness.
Subtle changes are all you need. And you can do it all right in your driveway.
 

Yeller

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Mar 27, 2012
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Rogers County Oklahoma
Nice looking rig on the under side😎

With all of the parts you’ve changed about the only thing left is ball joints. I still say get a print out of the alignment. You are at a point that we really need to know what toe in and caster numbers are I genuinely believe we will find the root cause once we have that into.
 

Soylent

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May 4, 2016
Messages
331
Loc.
California
I have a 2.5” suspension lift as well and use both dropped pitman arm and trac bracket. You can see how close to horizontal my draglink and tracbar are.

IMG_7565.jpeg IMG_7566.jpeg

And I also have a leaky banjo bolt :D
 
OP
OP
Luckie1127

Luckie1127

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May 2, 2023
Messages
32
Loc.
Greenville South Carolina
Nice looking rig on the under side😎

With all of the parts you’ve changed about the only thing left is ball joints. I still say get a print out of the alignment. You are at a point that we really need to know what toe in and caster numbers are I genuinely believe we will find the root cause once we have that into.
Thanks Yeller, i'll post up alignment info once parts arrive and I install. maybe that will allow us to find some relief for my drivability. Appreciate your and everyone's help
 
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Luckie1127

Luckie1127

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May 2, 2023
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Loc.
Greenville South Carolina
I have a 2.5” suspension lift as well and use both dropped pitman arm and trac bracket. You can see how close to horizontal my draglink and tracbar are.

View attachment 917674 View attachment 917675

And I also have a leaky banjo bolt :D
Soylent, that is very helpful. I plan on getting parts in and installed then will post alignment data for all to assess. Those heim joints look nice on there, i went back and forth as to which to install on mine. Clean rig from what I can see.
 

Oldtimer

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Feb 4, 2005
Messages
912
Loc.
Sunnyvale, CA
. . .it has more rotations to one side vs the other. . .
Number of rotations of steering box left & right need to be the same.
Are you hitting end of travel in steering box, or hard stops on knuckles?

After you center the axle (edit added).
Remove drag link from pitman arm, and determine center of travel for steering box.
This should be straight ahead for steering wheel. If not remove and center steering wheel.
Also, at this point the pitman arm should be pretty close to pointing straight back.
With wheels pointed straight ahead, adjust draglink so it can be installed on pitman arm.
Adjust hard stops on knuckles if tires are rubbing on track bars.
Jam nuts may be welded to stop bolts, so you may need to replace them.
 
Last edited:

abn373

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Full Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2012
Messages
380
Loc.
Charleston, SC
it's definitely shifted to the driver side and the adjustable track bar ( on backorder) will get me centered again. Steering box is a stock 74 6 turn (best i can tell) and you're right, it has more rotations to one side vs the other. Rig does have an updated slightly smaller steering wheel on it as well. The stock pittman arm appears to need updated to a full indexed one to update the geometry. Appreciate all your insight and feedback as i'm no mechanic at all, but do understand the needs here.
On mine, going back to the OEM size steering wheel (OEM power steering) made a huge difference in that oversteer feeling (the darting around sensitivity you mentioned) I am sure there are other issues you are dealing with as others have said, but the steering wheel is not something to overlook.
 
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