Tech Article on Removing Dana 20

[taylorB]

The title says it all. surly there is one out there, i just couldn't find it for some reason. Im also looking for one on rebuilding the d-20

 

[Pa PITT]

For some reason we don't seem to be doing as many tech articles as was done when I 1st joined.

 

[Terkish]

I don't think there is a current tech article. Its a fairly straight for ward removal though.
remove the shifter, remove the 6 bolts connecting it to the trans extension. then slide it rear ward. Be careful of the 13 bearing in the transfer case that will try to fall out of place.

this link will help you with the rebuild.
http://broncohq.com/pdf/66-77/chassis/tdana20transcase.pdf

Good luck with your rebuild.

 

[taylorB]

Awesome thats exactly what i needed to know!!

Would it be easiest to have a shop rebuild it. Im very handy but i dont have the special tools for this rebuild. what would something like that cost if i bring then the t-case and provide all the parts?

 

[daren]

here is one i found in the tech section if this helps also http://classicbroncos.com/tech/3-speed-and-transfer-case-rebuild

 

[taylorB]

I saw that one daren, but it he pulled the tranny with the t-case. im lookin for details on just the t-case. But thanks anyway ;D;D;D;D;D

 

[Terkish]

I rebuilt my T-case myself at home. It was alot easier then I thought it would be. But i didn't replace any bearings on mine because they all looked goos still.
I ended up just taking it apart, inspecting everything and then putting it back together with new gaskets and seals.

I think a shop would probably charge 200-300 to do the work, if i had to guess.

 

[1975 BRONCO]

C-4 & DANA 20 rebuild/ reseal cost

I currently have my 1975 C-4/ Dana 20 at a Parkland WA trans shop. I was quoted a price of $1000 to rebuild/ reseal the C-4 and reseal the Dana 20. I was going to pull the motor, trans and transfer case myself, but by the time you round up an engine stand, engine hoist, and trans jack, plus your time and bleeding knuckles, I thought it was better to let someone else with more experince do it. I'm paying $800 to have the engine, trans, and transfer case removed, then reinstalled after the paint job. Plus they guarantee it. I know this sounds like a lot of cash, but the NADA blue book value of the 1975 Bronco is over $20000. I am currently having the Bronco painted from the original white to dark jade poly (dark metallic green). Wild Horses sells a Dana 20 rebuild kit for $169. I guess what it all comes down to is how much do you want to spend, and your inventory of tools, and how soon do you want it back on the road? My two cents worth.

 

[Skiddy]

NADA blue book value of the 1975 Bronco is over $20000.

I have a pretty nice 74 i would sell you

 

[taylorB]

I have a pretty nice 74 i would sell you

BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA;D


How do you remove the spedo cable and what is the story with somethin falling into the tranny if you dont do something blah blah blah..... Also is there a down side to removing it with the crossmember attached? i wasnt able to get those bolts loose.


1000 for the tranny t-case sounds like a great deal.

 

[taylorB]

Bump? Just waitin on some clearance about those bearings dropping into the tranny. if i put it in 1st gear should i be ok to slide out the t case with the crossmember attached?

 

[Terkish]

when you remove the section between the trans and t-case from the t-case there is a shaft that goes into the t-case and rides in some floating bearings. kind of like the needle bearings in a u-joint. there are 13 bearings. sometimes they stick to the shaft and then fall into the t-case during removal or on to the floor. when i did mine they stayed in place and it was no big deal.

you should be fine to remove what you have right now from the bronco with no problems

 

[Terkish]

here is a link to a picture I found of the bearing that fall out looking into the T-case. It's from a ZF trans install write up but it show what we are talking about very well in the T-case.

http://classicbroncos.com/img/ZF_Tcase_input.jpg

 

[taylorB]

Hmm what i have doesnt look like the picture you found???:?

 

[KyleQ]

You have a C4 auto and needlessly removed the tailhousing with the transfer case. The rounded thing on the end comes out, with a hammer most times, it's the adapter for the C4 to mate to the D20.

YOu can rebuild a D20 with a claw hammer and a block of wood, if the bearings have stayed wet with oil, they should be fine. Why the rebuild? Noisy? Pops out of gear?

 

[taylorB]

It was leaking real bad and a grinding noise when on the gas, but quiet when coasting. Also, The twin sticks wouldn't go into 2 low.

really so no special tools required. Thats good to know ;D;D

 

[KyleQ]

Hrm - that's no good. Yup, time for a rebuild - take it apart and look for shiny metal and loose fitting parts.

 

[taylorB]

Will a regular rebuild kit with bearings and seals do. or will i need any extra gears?

That was one greasy dirty crossmember

 

[Tuck]

Will a regular rebuild kit with bearings and seals do. or will i need any extra gears?

Depends on how your gears look. Unless they're badly worn or have missing teeth, reuse them. You can upgrade the output shaft too, but that isn't necessary (depends on how you'll use it). Be careful on what kit you buy & know what's in it. Some don't come with shims, so you'll have to stop working & find some...ask me how I know. Really, the hardest part of this is the set screws holding the forks (mine were hard to remove). Other than that, it's just being careful with the loose needle bearings.

 

[taylorB]

what shims are you talking about? what kit did you get that didn't come with them?