Third times a charm v3.0

[JSmall]

Got my woody installed

 

[miikee73]

Looks ready to put wheels on. Gotta say that is one sexy shaft.

 

[JSmall]

Looks ready to put wheels on. Gotta say that is one sexy shaft.

I'm very close Mike. I have a few more things to do to the front and then I'll be ready to take it off the stands.

 

[luckieschmuck]

Jealous!!!


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[JSmall]

Jealous!!!


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How is yours coming along? Are you still working on your brakes?

 

[luckieschmuck]

Yes sir, I have more progress with the roll cage, but haven't posted yet


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[JSmall]

Yes sir, I have more progress with the roll cage, but haven't posted yet


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I'm looking forward to seeing your progress

 

[JSmall]

Knuckle gusset/lower strut mounts are installed. I'll be able to use the passenger one to gusset the trac bar mount

Passenger

Driver

 

[Yeller]

Looking really good! Keep it up, its be done before you know it

 

[JSmall]

Looking really good! Keep it up, its be done before you know it

Thanks Steve! You have been a big help through this process.

 

[mdside]

Looks ready to put wheels on. Gotta say that is one sexy shaft.

I'll take "Things you can say in the garage but not in the change room" for 800 Alex...

 

[5001craig]

Patiently (not very) waiting for updates.

Any specs on your driveshaft? Is it a long travel and do you need a long travel with your flex? I will have some travel and am a bit concerned with the front driveshaft as I clocked the Atlas up to almost touching the frame. Researching driveshafts now and would appreciate your thoughts. I can't really do anything with the shafts until I get the body back on but can't help thinking about them.

Sorry for the minor hijack.

Craig

 

[JSmall]

Patiently (not very) waiting for updates.

Any specs on your driveshaft? Is it a long travel and do you need a long travel with your flex? I will have some travel and am a bit concerned with the front driveshaft as I clocked the Atlas up to almost touching the frame. Researching driveshafts now and would appreciate your thoughts. I can't really do anything with the shafts until I get the body back on but can't help thinking about them.

Sorry for the minor hijack.

Craig

I've made some progress and I've also had a small setback. I'm working through the issue now.

I only have my rear shaft build right now. I have 14" struts front and rear and I set the rear up for 6" up travel and 8" droop. I haven't measured the shaft angle at full droop, but I can spin it by hand without any binding. I'm hoping the high pinion front helps with the front angles. I'll have 5.5" up travel and 8.5" droop. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[JSmall]

I had both towers in and the crossbar built. I tacked it on to make sure it would work and then removed it so I could make it easily removed. I drilled and tapped the top of the tower and added a pad for the support bar to weld to.





I added a temp support bar between the rear towers until I get the fenders in. When the fenders go in I will cut down the bar and sandwich the sheetmetal with plates so the rear is fully enclosed.



I finished Sunday by mocking up the tire. I was happy at this point.



The next morning I got up and cycled the suspension to check my clearances. That's where I ran into my setback. I didn't plan to tube out the front until I was completely done with the suspension. It won't be able to wait.





I wanted to use the knuckle gusset for the lower strut mount and that has led to the issue I'm having now. The struts should be mounted at a 10* angle towards the middle and with that angle, the tire hits the strut. At
stuff. I thought that might happen so I had other brackets on hand. I cutoff the lower mounts and the towers so I'll be working on the new setup soon.

 

[badmuttstang]

It's definitely looking good bud but man when you jump in you jump way in!

 

[Yeller]

If it clears the headers just trim the angle of the tower to move the top of the strut inboard 1", it doesn't have to clear by a lot but it has to clear. you can get away with 1/2" of clearance. No matter what I would not move the lower mount unless its absolutely necessary.

From what I can see they are leaned back about the same angle as you castor on the front axle, that helps with clearance as well since the tire will pivot around as it steers instead of getting closer as it turns, but be sure to check, that is a factor as well.

 

[walls]

Very nice work. Curious what the back seat is out of and how much more narrow it is compared to the factory seat at the base.

 

[JSmall]

It's definitely looking good bud but man when you jump in you jump way in!

That's the only way I know how to do it

 

[JSmall]

If it clears the headers just trim the angle of the tower to move the top of the strut inboard 1", it doesn't have to clear by a lot but it has to clear. you can get away with 1/2" of clearance. No matter what I would not move the lower mount unless its absolutely necessary.

From what I can see they are leaned back about the same angle as you castor on the front axle, that helps with clearance as well since the tire will pivot around as it steers instead of getting closer as it turns, but be sure to check, that is a factor as well.

It just clears at full stuff with the wheels straight. When I turn right that is when the tire hits the strut. I can move the upper mount in a little, but that would give me more than the desired 10*. I'm not sure what is more important, the strut being out that far or the 10* angle ORI recommends.

 

[JSmall]

Very nice work. Curious what the back seat is out of and how much more narrow it is compared to the factory seat at the base.

That is a Bestop seat from a TJ. It fits perfect between the wheel wells. I can take some measurements if needed.