Timing is everything

[TheLimeRanger]

Sorry for the rudimentary post. Trying to check the timing on my 74 with a timing light what’s the proper process? Thx

 

[Broncobowsher]

Find the timing pointer. This can be an issue as sometimes they go missing.
Clean the damper so you can read the numbers. Often a little paint on the numbers and wipe it off to leave paint only in the indentions works great. Make sure you know which side is BTDC and ATDC, you only care about BTDC.

So now you have a pointer, and readable markings on the damper.
Hook up the timing light to #1 cylinder. Front spark plug on the passenger side.
Unplug the hose(s) from the vacuum advance on the distributor, mark as needed, plug the hoses.
Find a wrench or socket, whatever it takes to access the distributer hold down bolt, make sure you can loosen it.

Should have asked this up front. Why are you setting the timing? Is this a new engine build? Or replacment engine? Just some new parts on an existing engine? Or just doing a tune up and want to check?

Start the engine, warm it up, get it off fast idle. You need the idle down near stock specs so you are not fighting against centrifical advance. Depending on what you are up against this may require a little idle mixture tuning, or even a carb rebuild if that is really the issue. Maybe a little blind adjustment of the distributor. Use the strobing light, watch the pointer and the timing marks. Rotate the distributor until the pointer lines up with the desired timing. If you have the fancy timing light with built in advance knob/buttons. That is a little different. You set the advance you want in the timing light and adjust until the 0° mark lines up with the pointer.

A possible issues are using an old damper that the hub has slipped. Or the fact the small block Fords were built with 3 different locations of the timing pointer. You have to have the right damper to match the pointer for the pair to work. Get the wrong mix of parts, the pointer and marks will not match and you can't set it (other than by ear/feel).

 

[TheLimeRanger]

Find the timing pointer. This can be an issue as sometimes they go missing.
Clean the damper so you can read the numbers. Often a little paint on the numbers and wipe it off to leave paint only in the indentions works great. Make sure you know which side is BTDC and ATDC, you only care about BTDC.

So now you have a pointer, and readable markings on the damper.
Hook up the timing light to #1 cylinder. Front spark plug on the passenger side.
Unplug the hose(s) from the vacuum advance on the distributor, mark as needed, plug the hoses.
Find a wrench or socket, whatever it takes to access the distributer hold down bolt, make sure you can loosen it.

Should have asked this up front. Why are you setting the timing? Is this a new engine build? Or replacment engine? Just some new parts on an existing engine? Or just doing a tune up and want to check?

Start the engine, warm it up, get it off fast idle. You need the idle down near stock specs so you are not fighting against centrifical advance. Depending on what you are up against this may require a little idle mixture tuning, or even a carb rebuild if that is really the issue. Maybe a little blind adjustment of the distributor. Use the strobing light, watch the pointer and the timing marks. Rotate the distributor until the pointer lines up with the desired timing. If you have the fancy timing light with built in advance knob/buttons. That is a little different. You set the advance you want in the timing light and adjust until the 0° mark lines up with the pointer.

A possible issues are using an old damper that the hub has slipped. Or the fact the small block Fords were built with 3 different locations of the timing pointer. You have to have the right damper to match the pointer for the pair to work. Get the wrong mix of parts, the pointer and marks will not match and you can't set it (other than by ear/feel).

Thank you! The ilong story short is that my module puked it’s guts. 74 factory electronic ignition. Found another one but it’s still not running right. I replaced everything from the timing chain forward about 1.5 years ago, new tanks, lines and a carb rebuild. Just started happening out of nowhere. Before I start throwing parts at it I wanted to go over the base line stuff to see where we were at

 

[75MIKE]

Do you have an extra coil you can try?

 

[TheLimeRanger]

I have an extra pickup, but not a coil. It’s definitely got a “miss” that just all of a sudden showed up. I thought it was the module since it had puked that jelly out all over the fender, but that’s not it. I could just throw the kitchen sink at it, but I’ve gone down that road before with mixed results. Had a c-10 pickup way back in the day. After having the gas tank changed, it was starving for fuel at higher RPM’s. I ended up putting on a new intake, carb, fuel pump, distributor and coil. Turns out it ended up being a fuel hose from the tank was too long. Took the bed off, cut an inch off the line and it never did it again.

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, if I was working to cure a missfire I would make sure the normal tune up parts are in good shape. If the cap, rotor, wires and plugs are older then you remember I would replace them with the premium stuff. I might do a compression test when the plugs are out. The thing about ignition timing is that our engines will perform better with more timing than the specs call for. I usually find @ 12* BTDC a good place to start. Also while I am checking ignition timing I like to rev the engine and make sure advance is working. If you have an adjustable timing light you can see the advance in degrees. If you have the old fashioned light you can rev the engine and watch the timing mark disappear under the water pump. Good luck

 

[Rustytruck]

Jelly on the fender replace the module before you get stranded. Ohm check the mag pick-up.

 

[TheLimeRanger]

thank you!