Yeah, I would first of all forget all about a 10" wide wheel. You'd practically need one with a 6" backspacing measurement to get it tucked in like that.
Wide and tucked-in do not play nice together. Since your body is not tubbed, and your frame is not narrowed, and your springs are not inset, going with a narrower wheel to start off is a step in the right direction.
Remember, you can't have a "deep dish" look and lots of backspacing at the same time. Not sure if "deep" was what you were looking for, but thought I'd bring that up too just in case.
Your choice of a 12.50" wide tire is do'able, but is pushing it a bit too. Narrower tires by just a little bit would work. A 285 is just a tad narrower I think, and as the others said, easier to find in a 17 most likely anyway.
I prefer sticking with 265 and 275 wide tires with uncut rear fenders, but plenty of people have fitted 285's under there sheet metal that it's got some history as well. Best to read their threads to see what they did to accomplish it.
The metric sizes often list narrower wheels in their "approved wheel width" lists too. Getting harder and harder to find a big tire company that will mount a 12.50 on an 8" wide wheel anymore. It's a perfect fit in the real world, but most tire companies now list 8.5" as their minimum width anymore. Some tire companies adhere religiously to the specs. Some, not so much...
Looks like you're at the point too, that you can't cleanly move the rear axle rearward by welding on new perches. Too much new paint and coatings that you likely don't want to damage I'd say.
Which means you'd be using one of those relocation kits that includes a new block I think? I'm not really that familiar with the different methods, so others will have to fill in the blanks there.
The reason for bringing up moving the rear axle is the shape of the leading edge of the rear wheel well opening. It moves inward and more vertical, and creates more interference potential with the rear tires as they get taller and taller.
You might be ok just as it is of course, but you might not. As said, you may just have to wait and see how much clearance you have once the build is finalized.
Can you compress the suspension down to ride-height without scuffing things up too much? If you can get the rear suspension compressed so that the distance between the top of the axle tube and the bottom of the frame is approximately 10.5" (give or take 1/2") then you can see what kind of clearances you're going to have.
They're great goals, and your Bronco is looking fantastic. As well do those others in those pics. The flat look of the wheels shows that they have lots of backspacing (more positive offset) for their width. Be nice to know the specific details. Is that first gray one an Icon by any chance? Or one of the other companies that list their details online? Has dealer plates, so wasn't sure who's it was.
Sorry I don't have any hard facts to give you as to what is, and what is not going to fit. Just that sometimes you have to feel around the edges to get it just right.
Good luck.
Paul
