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Troubleshooting - transmission

clinem03

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Sep 9, 2017
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400
I was underway moving through 1st then 2nd and about to shift into 3rd where I heard a “clunk” and I lost the ability to move when in 2nd or 3rd (I can shift into both but the truck won’t move when I give it gas, it just revs). I could shift into first and reverse but when I’m moving in 1st the trans sounds off, and has a whine to it ( reverse sounds normal) I checked all my linkage and don’t see any issues so I think it’s the trans itself. I had the clutch, fly wheel and TO bearing replaced 3k miles ago but it’s still the OE trans that hasn’t been fully rebuilt. Fluids were changed when the clutch was replaced.

I have a good transmission shop here but thought I’d see if anyone knows what the problem could be since I won’t be able to call them until Monday.

76 wagon, 302, manual 3 on the tree and OE trans
 
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Oldtimer

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Feb 4, 2005
Messages
912
Loc.
Sunnyvale, CA
Make sure shift lever is bolted tight to shaft.
Next option is shift rail and shift fork aren't playing well with each other.

2022-07-22_160320.jpg

2022-07-22_155437.jpg
 

Broncobowsher

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Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,947
Inspect the linkage and make sure it is all hooked up.
I've lost a clip once and the linkage fell off the R-1 linkage, only had 2nd and 3rd gears. As long as I could keep rolling it was good enough to get home and fix it.
 
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clinem03

clinem03

Full Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2017
Messages
400
Inspect the linkage and make sure it is all hooked up.
I've lost a clip once and the linkage fell off the R-1 linkage, only had 2nd and 3rd gears. As long as I could keep rolling it was good enough to get home and fix it.
I checked the linkage first, it’s all connected. Thanks!
 

Oldtimer

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Jr. Member with Sr. moments
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Feb 4, 2005
Messages
912
Loc.
Sunnyvale, CA
I assume I need to drop transmission to get to the shift rail?
Yes.

You might disconnect the shift linkage from the shift lever, at the transmission, and shift by hand.
This would verify the problem is internal, before pulling the transmission.
 

Broncobowsher

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Messages
34,947
You are really going to want to make sure it is internal before you decide to remove the transmission. Take the linkage off and manually run it through the gears. Put it in 2nd gear via the linkage (remember the R-1 has to be in neutral before the 2-3 will go into gear) and start the engine and see if you are in a gear. If not, you are right and it is internal and you already started getting the transmission out by removing the linkage. If it does go into gear, now you really need to start looking at the linkage and the shifter.
 
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clinem03

clinem03

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Sep 9, 2017
Messages
400
Pulled the 2/3rd linkage, manually put it in 2nd at the transmission started her up, gave her gas and let the clutch out all the way. She didn’t move, nor did she stall out when the clutch was fully released. Must be the shift rail
 
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clinem03

clinem03

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For historical purposes I figured I’d update the thread on what the issue was. It was a broken output shaft. It literally snapped in 2.
 
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Broncobowsher

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So it snapped between the 1st and 2nd syncros?
How hard did you hit 2nd gear?

Not a common failure. But not unheard of in automotive history as well. Back in high school someone tried to do a burn out (in a Volvo?) and snapped the output shaft. Lost all forward gears. But being a 4-speed reverse was at the very back of the transmission and still worked.
 
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clinem03

clinem03

Full Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2017
Messages
400
So it snapped between the 1st and 2nd syncros?
How hard did you hit 2nd gear?

Not a common failure. But not unheard of in automotive history as well. Back in high school someone tried to do a burn out (in a Volvo?) and snapped the output shaft. Lost all forward gears. But being a 4-speed reverse was at the very back of the transmission and still worked.
I didn’t shift it hard at all. The shop I took it too has been in business for a long time and specializes in older transmissions. Shop owner said he’s saw a lot of this, just a natural fail point with age
 
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