WH hydroboost fine tune

[nvrstuk]

I picked up the Hydroboost system from a 2010 F350 Superduty. I got the Master cylinder and even the power adjustable pedal assembly. I wanted something semi easy to get parts in the future from a normal auto parts store. It will go in my 72 project with custom bracket to angle the master cylinder out of the way of the coilover's and cage.

I wanted the Bronco to be able to be driven by short people and tall. Thus the reason for the pedal assembly.

David

That adj pedal sounds pretty cool !

 

[Wrightracing]

That adj pedal sounds pretty cool !

I drove a Superduty with the power adjustable pedal assembly and loved it. It is so much nicer than just moving the seat or steering wheel. So when I found a full set on Ebay, I had to have it.

David

 

[ksagis]

One random thought after driving 12 hours the last two days, if you have Caddy brakes with the parking brakes, you need to make sure the parking brake is properly adjusted or you’ll have crappy pedal, even with system properly bled.

 

[ddm156]

Thanks to everyone for contributing thoughts. I'm going to get to work checking into the various possibilities.
Really interested in the caddy e brake suggestion. Definitely don't have it dialed in. Now, to search the tech forum for caddy e brake adjustment!

 

[ba123]

Yes, you do have to adjust the caddy ebrake is the word but might have been Lars or someone that commented on another thread that he doesn’t and had no issues.

 

[ksagis]

Thanks to everyone for contributing thoughts. I'm going to get to work checking into the various possibilities.
Really interested in the caddy e brake suggestion. Definitely don't have it dialed in. Now, to search the tech forum for caddy e brake adjustment!

Here’s a sampling of links in case they’re helpful….

CPP: How To Adjust The Parking Brake On a Cadillac Style Caliper:

BC Broncos: Adjusting BC Broncos rear disc brake kit caliper (Cadillac caliper):

TBP: OMS OFFROAD Tech Tips: Rear Disc Brake Caliper Adjustment:

 

[Soylent]

One thing with double flare fittings is prep is key. Make sure the end of the line is perfectly square. Use a file. Then you need to chamfer both inside and out. Also cheap flare tools result in cheap flares. You can also get a flare lapping tool that helps prep the flare so it will seal the first time.
https://koultools.com/product/flare-lapping-tool/

This is the flare tool I’ve been using for several years now. I’ve never had a tool work as well as this.
https://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html

How do you know if you need a 37 or 45 degree set?

 

[Tiko433]

Here’s a sampling of links in case they’re helpful….

CPP: How To Adjust The Parking Brake On a Cadillac Style Caliper:

BC Broncos: Adjusting BC Broncos rear disc brake kit caliper (Cadillac caliper):

TBP: OMS OFFROAD Tech Tips: Rear Disc Brake Caliper Adjustment:

Thanks for sharing, I had no idea about this adjustment.

 

[Wild horse 75]

How do you know if you need a 37 or 45 degree set?

37° is for AN single flares. So you’d have a nut and tube sleeve on the line. 45° is for traditional double flares commonly found in brake systems.

 

[Soylent]

37° is for AN single flares. So you’d have a nut and tube sleeve on the line. 45° is for traditional double flares commonly found in brake systems.

Ok. So the ss lines and hard lines from Wild Horses are the 45? They have the nut sliding on the line.

 

[Wild horse 75]

Ok. So the ss lines and hard lines from Wild Horses are the 45? They have the nut sliding on the line.

Most likely. And stainless is hard so it does take a bit extra to get them to seal so lapping them prior to installation helps have them seal first time. Just know that lapping won’t fix a crappy flare though. It’s meant to smooth out any small imperfections and give the flare a bit of texture to help it bite in. Sort of like sanding before painting. It gives it some tooth.

 

[Soylent]

Most likely. And stainless is hard so it does take a bit extra to get them to seal so lapping them prior to installation helps have them seal first time. Just know that lapping won’t fix a crappy flare though. It’s meant to smooth out any small imperfections and give the flare a bit of texture to help it bite in. Sort of like sanding before painting. It gives it some tooth.

Gotcha. This new hydroboost is leaking at multiple fittings. I’ll try the loosen-tighten-loosen routine again. I can’t imagine they need to be tighter than they already are.

 

[rocknhorse76]

Another "soft pedal" debacle was the untimely death of my original rear line lock. I am sure that it caused all my grief when upgrading brakes/axles back 7 yrs ago. I could not with the Astro boost 1 1/8" mc pressurize and achieve proper pedal with the Chebby JD6 calipers frt and rear. I used to be a brake tech at a GM dealer about when these calipers were being used all the time so after pressure bleeding, vacuum bleeding at least 6 times each Steve suggested a 1.33" caliper from a HB designed 1 ton Chebby HB system- problem solved. I think the line lock was restricting flow to some degree.

Down the road a bit I noticed that my rear line lock wasn't holding- frt still was and 90% of the time I use both so I didn't notice just the rear not holding (although I have been known to lock the front and smoke the rear 40's) lol

Last summer I upgraded to an alum body mc with a tight fitting lid also designed for JD6 calipers and HB. The new mc is 1.25" mc and works perfect moving enough fluid with a NEW Micolock rear line lock. NO rust & it doesn't weep fluid out the lid (mine didn't after 3 new gaskets, one new lid and to radiator hose clamps.

All this typing just emphasizes that other things (that wouldn't be expected) besides an mc can cause excessive pedal.

I enjoy designing brake systems as there are so many variables and have on a couple local guys old hot rods. There is so much mis-information on brakes floating around out there it's amazing. Especially resto-mod stuff

I use the same 1.25” bore MC as NVRSTK with 97 F-350 front and JD6 rear calipers. Works perfectly. Nice high pedal without being overly touchy. Pretty important when you’re doing a lot of wheeling and driving on slick surfaces.

 

[Wild horse 75]

Gotcha. This new hydroboost is leaking at multiple fittings. I’ll try the loosen-tighten-loosen routine again. I can’t imagine they need to be tighter than they already are.

Is it the brake lines leaking or the power steering lines leaking? 2 different thing that need 2 different solutions.

 

[Soylent]

Brake. Leaking at the junction of the steel braided lines meeting the hard lines at the frame mount. Also the steel braided line to banjo on the front disks. Lines at master and prop valve are fine. Maybe I should start a new thread so I don’t bog down ddm’s thread.

 

[Wild horse 75]

Brake. Leaking at the junction of the steel braided lines meeting the hard lines at the frame mount. Also the steel braided line to banjo on the front disks. Lines at master and prop valve are fine. Maybe I should start a new thread so I don’t bog down ddm’s thread.

Probably a good idea