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- Nov 3, 2003
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- 47,654
Sure, don't mind if I do.
Probably a combination of things really. Oh, and your results may vary...
1. The tire's tread stability (this will depend on the tire) might have changed for the better with the sidewalls pulled in just a bit tighter. Might lead to less squirminess on some tires, with the same or even less air pressure.
Air pressure being a huge variable no matter what combo you choose, a "better ride" does not always equate to better handling. Especially with a tall sidewall design like our truck tires have.
2. A narrower wheel is likely (here again, depends on the individual wheel) to have more positive offset (centerline closer to the bearing and steering centerlines) which pulls the tire's contact patch nearer to where the factory designed it to be for best steering.
Increased scrub radius (the amount of tire/contact patch outside of the steering axis centerline) doesn't always do good things for steering feel or straight line stability. With a wider wheel/tire combination, which typically might have more negative offset, the tire proscribes more of an "arc" when steering, instead of simply pivoting on (or near) it's center.
This also gives the leverage advantage to the tire/wheel over the steering linkage and gear box.
A perfect example of leverage on the linkage that might make for worse road manners would be with the '76 and '77 EB's "inverted-Y" steering. A wider/taller/heavier/more offset setup will literally put more flex into the draglink and tie-rod both when you're trying to steer it (feels more vague) and when you're driving (more feedback into the steering wheel that needs correcting). But this leverage factor is there even on the more rigid earlier Inverted-T style linkage. Just not as noticeable in most cases.
That extra leverage is also the same factor that can put extra wear and tear on the other components such as wheel bearings and ball-joints and rod ends.
Wheel offset will always play a large role in any variables.
While the wider wheel's offset "might" offer some sideways roll stability, on paper at least, it's not always enough benefit to offset other characteristics for my tastes.
We're not talking about extremes here. Which is why a lot of people use 10's and never have an issue. But I bet if you take any number of Broncos and put 8's and 10's on them with the same tires, you'll be able to feel a difference. And as with many things Bronco, your personal tastes will greatly effect your decision. Many people, as you've heard here, even prefer the wider wheel combo. Nothing wrong with that, as long as that's what you like. But for anyone new to old trucks who's used to the steering feel of a modern car (or even truck) I can almost guarantee you'll feel more familiar with the handling characteristics of a narrower wheel.
Some of the aforementioned variables would include tire carcass construction, with the associated tread and sidewall design. Those would play the biggest role I would think. One tire might actually like the wider wheel, while another might like the narrower one. Even the tire manufacturers have a range of widths that they recommend. Most often between 8.5" and 10" for a 12.50" tire.
Maybe an extreme example of this variation would be the tires I just put on my Buick Regal last month. Same stock 16x7 wheels. Previous tire model was a 225x60x16 Goodyear Assurance Comfortread All-Season. New tire is a 235x60x16 Goodyear Assurance Comfortead Touring. The old tires rode hard, were loud, but handled amazingly well and created a completely neutral handling car. The new tires are quiet, smooth and TOTALLY SUCK everywhere else!
The car is now wallowy, under steers like crazy, and literally follows every rain groove in the road. Still experimenting with air pressures, but not too confident of a cure.
Two dissimilar tires I've never used on a vehicle. And they're the more expensive, higher rated tire. Go figure.
Did I mention your results may vary?;D
Instead of the lift (for now anyway) it sounds like you got Bushwacker's smaller rear opening (original design) flare. It'll cost you the price of a new set of course, but they do make a rear flare with the same profile except for that leading edge. Instead of more vertical, it extends farther forward at the bottom, giving a wider overall opening.
While the lift is probably about the same cost, you might get more bang for that buck initially out of the larger flare opening.
No more little half-moon wear spots where the tires rub!
Yep, higher center of gravity could benefit from a wider track. I agree, but still like to keep it closer to stock than the 10's typically provide. I feel an 8 is still wider than stock, so you are in fact creating a wider track. Just not as wide as a 10 perhaps. Just personal preference at that point. I'm willing to trade some of that last bit of width for a slightly closer-to-stock feel and look.
But there ya go WASP. Fairlane's used the 10's and would do it again. So you see a 10 isn't necessarily or automatically a negative for everyone.
Be great if you can drive similar vehicles with the two sizes of course. I wonder if you're around any who just happen to have them and would let you drive them? Sometimes that's what we do at a get-together or weekend event,
Have fun making the decision!
Paul
