Wiper Switch wiring - need the electrical gurus.

[mgb0302]

Need some help regarding the stock electric wiper motor and its wiring. I am pretty good with electrical but I do not understand how the "park" function works (maybe like a turn signal? i.e. draws power until it heats up then the contacts separate, maybe? I'm guessing here).

Anyway, I have the power, high, low, park and pump wires hooked up like the are in the directions for the dual motor set up. There is also a ground wire from the motor that is wired to the windshield. However, I keep popping a 20 amp fuse.

I do not have a stock switch - I have the one sold with the dual motor kits from the vendors (such as this one - switch).

Any help?

 

[DirtDonk]

Never tried to hook up regular wipers to that switch. Not sure how it would be done.
If you'd said one of the regular dual wiper switches, I'd have said there's a 90% chance you need a stock switch. Not sure how this one might be limited in that regard.
Is there a wiring schematic for the switch?

For the Park, I'm pretty sure it's points, but they are physically separated when the arms reach the pre-determined position. At that point a cam lobe separates the contacts.
I think...

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

I should have added though, that this is why there is constant power through the wiper switch, so that when the switch is in the OFF position, one of the wires (probably one of the grounds) turns into a positive 12v feed for the park circuit.
I've managed to wire up dozens of them successfully, without really knowing how they function. Just did what made sense and tested, and when tests turned out well, I was good to go!

Blowing a 20a fuse is probably a dead short. It's possible to put a too-small fuse in and have it overload, but I don't think 20a is under-sized at all. Isn't stock 15a anyway?
I'll see if I can verify that. Usually the heaviest fuse in a Bronco is the heater motor at 25a for Broncos and 30a for full-size trucks I think.
Again though, just guessing at that stuff. I'll see if I can get more info, but in the meantime maybe PM Viperwolf1 to see what he's got to say for himself.;D

Paul

 

[mgb0302]

DirtDonk

Your second post makes sense - I tested the resistance in the switch before I installed it. When the switch is off, there is continuity between the battery post and the park terminal - meaning constant power through the switch when in off position.

As far as a diagram for the switch, see the first post.

Bottom line - I am still baffled. Will PM Viperwolf as recommended,

thanks

 

[Viperwolf1]

He's at the Mexican 1K for a few more days.

 

[DirtDonk]

...As far as a diagram for the switch, see the first post.

Yep, got that one. Was really thinking about some kind of internal schematic that explained the delay and all the other individual functions in detail.

Thanks

Paul

 

[mgb0302]

Thanks Paul. Good idea. I'll see if I can dig up something on the inter webs cause Im lost.

 

[Steve83]

I'm not clear about what you're doing... You've linked an aftermarket system - is that what you have? Or just something "like" that one? This shows the internal wiring for the stock switch & motor:


(phone app link)

 

[mgb0302]

Steve,

Thanks for the link. To be clear, I am using a stock electric motor with an after market switch. The switch I am using is the same one that comes in the wildhorses dual motor set up. I have the wires hooked to the switch as shown in the last page of the directions from the WH site. I am hooking the wires to the switch according to the following:
•White - Park (post 5)
•Green - Low (post 1 on my switch)
•Blue - High (post 2 on my switch)
•Red - Power (post B on my switch)

 

[DirtDonk]

I see the colors this way:
(Switch Colors)

1. White is High-Speed
2. Yellow is Low-Speed
3. Green is Park
4. Brown is the washer pump
5. Blue is ground AT THE MOTOR.
6. Black is battery ground
7. Red is battery hot

(Motor Colors)

1. Blue is High Speed
2. White w/orange is Low Speed
3. Red should be Park Power
4. Black w/white should be Park Ground through the switch
The last two are "maybes" until someone like Steve or Phil can confirm.

I can only assume at this point that White w/orange is your White, and that Black w/white is your Green. But I don't know this to be true. You may have to experiment.

I also don't know for sure that the ground wires that are expected to run up to the individual motors actually needs to for the stock one, or if you can get away with just grounding them anywhere convenient.

The instructions for the switch show a constant power source. I don't know if this is a requirement, or you can use the standard switched-power of the original wiring. But unless there is some memory function of the new switch, I would assume you could use the original Orange w/white OR White w/black switched power wires.
The original switch has two power wires, while your new one has only one. So while there may be 7 wires on each switch, some of them will have different functions.

One of the reasons for an internal diagram of the switch is to see if you can connect just one wire to one wire on the motor, or if you should use both contact points and two wires on the switch (for more current capacity) into one wire on the larger stock motor.

Not sure that helps. I don't think I remember ever reading about someone here using that switch with a stock motor setup. I'm sure it's been tried, but I don't remember reading about any specifics.

Paul

 

[Steve83]

The quickest, easiest, & probably cheapest reliable solution is to use a direct-replacement switch instead of one designed for an entirely-different motor circuit. It'll cost you more time & frustration trying to figure out the wrong switch, and it might simply NOT work with the stock motor anyway. The right switch can't be THAT expensive - it's interchangeable with the '80-91 wiper switch which is common-as-dirt in junkyards.

 

[mgb0302]

Steve- good to know about the availability of the switch. I just had an old one laying around from a used dual wiper set-up I was trying to make work. Will dig around to see what I can find.

 

[Viperwolf1]

New style switch won't work with stock motor. Old motor and switch needed to talk to each other to make park function. New stuff is dumb switch and smart motor.

 

[mgb0302]

I'll buy that! Internal resistors within switches do not match up. Thanks for the info

 

[Rocko1012]

Wiper motor issue also, New Centench harness (Switch), I have power to the wiper motor, but will not work, How to fix issues




FIXED, NO ISSUE MOTOR JAMMED

 

[904Bronco]

Here is factory diagram...

And I have never used the supplied Centech switch, Always revised harness to accept Ford factory switch...

 

[Viperwolf1]

Better diagram.

 

[904Bronco]

Yes much better... Enhanced!