Fenderwell exit header pictures

[KyleQ]

I'd like to see pictures of how the Hooker 9814's end up on a truck without a body lift. I'm currently running the stock 302, but have plans to run a 408.

I'm obviously running 1 tons and Cage arms, so clearance shouldn't be an issue - just want to see what I am getting into...

Thanks!

 

[Madgyver]

There are pics in this thread..
Not Hookers but they may give you ideas..

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58278&highlight=351C4V

 

[broncnaz]

Heres some pics of my 9814's no body lift, on a 302. I could take some more pics if you want as I dont have any pics from underneath but they clear the radius arms just fine. I highly recommend getting them coated it really help protect them and they look good in the fenderwell. I get people pointing at them all the time. This is my second set my first set lasted over 20 years before they finally started blowing out. This set is about 6-7 years old in the pics. Got a few more years on them now and they still look good.

 

[KyleQ]

Thanks guys - I'm just concerned on how low they hang and the clearances when you run them. It would seem like these would help keep the heat out of the engine compartment and look good doing it. DO you have any higher resolution pictures? I'm wondering about how close it sits next to the steering shaft, brake lines and where they poke out so I can see where I'll have to run the pipes.

I'd love to see how your headers look now - I'm not sure what condition the headers will be when I get them, should I have them powder coated or get some sort of JetHot coating? What holds up well to a trail rig?

Thanks - I'm kinda stoked to have headers coming out of the wheel wells, I'll probably have to cut off the rock slider I have welded on the driver side to run some exhaust....

 

[broncnaz]

Get them jet hot coated it is better than powder caoting and keeps the heat down.
I'll try and get a better pic of clearances around the steering shaft. I'm pretty sure that it has enough space even with a 351W. Brake lines are well enough away and the thermo coating helps reduce the heat. I've never had a issue with them.

 

[KyleQ]

I'm just a bit worried with all the crap I have on that side of the truck -

All my power steering stuff-


I've also got this rock slider tied into my door post -



As long as it clears everything under the hood I don't care, I can hack the slider off (only have one side done) and run the exhaust where it needs to go. Probably give me a good excuse to install a body lift as well. It also looks like the exhaust will be above where the Cage arm brackets are - I have not seen a truck with these headers running Cage arms...

 

[broncnaz]

I dont think you'll have issues under the hood I did move my brake lines to the otherside of the steering shaft just to keep them farther away from any heat you could move yours also. I think you'll clear the sliders fine I'll get some pics and measurements of that area. As soon as it cools off a little.
The collectors are about even with the stock radius arm brackets. This set of headers the colector flanges were welded on a little different than my first set as one of the bolts is directly on the bottom so that reduced clearance a little. I've only ever hit my headers once and I knew I was going to do it they probably would have held up with little damage had they been newer but they were old, uncoated and thin. Keep in mind that a 351W based engine will raise the collectors up about 1in. so that can help.

If your doing a lot of rock crawling I might not use these type or just extend your rock sliders down a little to help protect them better. I've seen a few guys run the exhuast outlet out the side of the rocker panel you could do that with extended rock sliders. although you would be wise to do any body lift and engine swap before modifing the sliders.

 

[TheBroncoRanch]

Any issues running them with a Aux tank? Looks like they would go under the Aux tank.

Thanks Tom

 

[broncnaz]

No issues with aux tank. I'm running a aux tank.

 

[KyleQ]

I dont think you'll have issues under the hood I did move my brake lines to the otherside of the steering shaft just to keep them farther away from any heat you could move yours also. I think you'll clear the sliders fine I'll get some pics and measurements of that area. As soon as it cools off a little.
The collectors are about even with the stock radius arm brackets. This set of headers the colector flanges were welded on a little different than my first set as one of the bolts is directly on the bottom so that reduced clearance a little. I've only ever hit my headers once and I knew I was going to do it they probably would have held up with little damage had they been newer but they were old, uncoated and thin. Keep in mind that a 351W based engine will raise the collectors up about 1in. so that can help.

If your doing a lot of rock crawling I might not use these type or just extend your rock sliders down a little to help protect them better. I've seen a few guys run the exhuast outlet out the side of the rocker panel you could do that with extended rock sliders. although you would be wise to do any body lift and engine swap before modifing the sliders.

Thanks for helping me out with this - I really appreciate it. I do mostly trail riding and some occasional mud, rocks are something I have yet to tackle. I'm thinking the headers won't hang down too bad with the 351 and the extreme motor mounts.

 

[broncnaz]

More pics with a few measurements thrown in. Theres about 6in of clearance between the headers and the front edge of the body mount bracket so you should have enough room for the sliders. There's about a 1/2" between the rag joint and header you could either get a different upper joint or a body lift would solve that issue if it is a issue with a 351.

 

[KyleQ]

Thanks for the pictures - it looks like my Cage arms and stretched front will give me even more clearance for the headers where they come out. I've found a few people who end up bending their headers with a jack to get a bit more clearance - I'll probably do what I need to and then have them coated to make sure they last.

It doesn't look like you are running a crossover pipe - is that going to cost you some torque or hp?

 

[broncnaz]

It might a little but It feels real good as is. I'm running 2 1/4" pipe right now but I had 2 1/2" pipe before and it seemed to feel better with the 2.5in pipes. But still with my engine it is pretty torquey as is.

 

[4x4x289]

KyleQ,

Here are pictures of my headers with a 351w with heavy-duty motor mounts. I had to bend my shock towers outward and move my steering column up as high as possible. The recipe for my exhaust system has been posted previously. I caught my steering column on fire once, -grease spitting out the shaft. Melted by shock boots at Gore. And I found a problem today with plug wires, -although it might be the result of defected/uncured caps.

I'm still meaning to purchase jethot, install heat shields, finnish up the drivers side inner fender, and dent in the headers to allow usage of a wrench on the header bolts. I used a floor jack to bend my header collected to be level, and then cut off the flanges. My inner fenders are approximately 2” narrower than typical, -removable/unboltable.

Scott

 

[4x4x289]

2 of 3, 2 of 3

 

[4x4x289]

3 of 3...........................

 

[KyleQ]

Thanks so much for the pictures - that helps me a bunch. I am going to test fit and bend before I send them out to get coated - I am looking forward to this ;D

 

[KyleQ]

Bringing this back up - how do you run rock sliders with these headers? I've got a rock slider on my truck done and now that I'm looking back at this there doesn't seem to be a way to run the exhaust under the truck with a slider there...