Old Nylon Fuel Line

[TTechsan]

Newbie question. I will be working on my fuel system, replacing the fuel pump and rubber pieces from the tanks to carb. Any good reason to replace the original (I believe) nylon fuel line? From what I can see, it looks okay.

 

[bronconut73]

Most everyone here does.
It is really old and could break or something leading to a leak along your frame rail right over your exhaust if you are running duals.
So my vote is yes, replace it. It is cheap insurance.
If you do not want to have to do it again for awhile check out Summit, Jegs, Speedway, etc...for some racing grade fuel line. Lots to choose from.
Some guys just run regular 3/8" neoprene.
Some guys use hard line (stainless steel) with neoprene on the ends.

 

[ntsqd]

I'd replace it with more of the same. Ford knew what they were doing in using it. Can get it from mcmaster.com in bulk lengths. I'm replacing the full length temporary rubber fuel hose with it, and adding more of the same for the eventual EFI return line.

 

[fordwheeler]

Mine busted and decided to leak right over hot exhaust....if you have the time and know how, do it

 

[Buldozer]

It is a good product so I would consider using the same stuff if I were you

 

[TTechsan]

Thanks for the replies. The BC Broncos kit looks like a fairly simple bolt in. Any disadvantages to the metal fuel lines?

 

[Buldozer]

Metal seems to definitely have more issues with vapor locking, but that may not be an issue depending on the climate where you live. There have been mixed reviews on the fit of the BC kit, I suggest you search on here for those with issues with certain years and such. I don't recall the specifics, just that I have seen some posters on here with issues over the years. You can get a roll of any size metal line you want at autozone and just clamp it to the frame with some one hole straps or whatever also. It bends fairly easy, so you can pretty much bend it with your hands.

 

[ransil]

you can get it at your local auto parts store , dorman sell it

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...ne-tubing/_/N-26h3?itemIdentifier=839122_0_0_

 

[spap]

The nylon. Hose is very easy to work with especially with fuel injection I used nylon hose and put inside rubber hose to protect it . Have be careful around exhaust manifolds

 

[ntsqd]

The nylon that I used from mcmaster is rated at something over 200 psi, EFI fuel pressure won't be a problem. I also used "wash-down" Push-to-Connect fittings (have Viton sealing o-rings, thanks Lars!) at each end of the nylon to transition into AN fittings for the flex hose sections of the fuel system. Some of the fittings are temporarily capped to keep junk out while I'm working on it. Lots of airborne dirt from the fields in our area. Blue ano is supply, black ano is return.

 

[Steve83]

Stay out of the zone. Buy it from Amazon or NAPA:

 

[DirtDonk]

...I also used "wash-down" Push-to-Connect fittings (have Viton sealing o-rings, thanks Lars!) at each end of the nylon to transition into AN fittings for the flex hose sections of the fuel system...

Very interesting setup ntsqd. Do you have a build thread hereabouts where you were working on, or at least discussing it? Or links to product info somewhere?
Be interested to learn more.

Thanks

Paul

 

[ntsqd]

Same here, only normally buy from my local CarQuests.

Fittings used are near the bottom of this page, "Washdown" Push to Connect:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#push-to-connect-tube-fittings/=tf45wx
Threaded into these fittings in the anchor tabs:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-through-wall-couplings/=tf47pe

Using bulkhead fittings is a long running theme of mine to anchor the transitions from "fixed" line to flex hose. Started doing this when plumbing drag cars in aluminum tube years ago. I use AN bulkhead fittings there, with tube nuts & sleeves on the 37° flared aluminum tubing.

I abhor hose clamps. What is seen in the pics above is Gates Emissions Barrier hose on Push-Lock/Barb-tite type fittings. Which when used with the intended hose these fittings do not want or need a hose clamp to be good to the pressure rating of the hose. In 3/8" I think that's 200 psi. Thinking "belt & suspenders" by using a hose clamp on these fittings is shooting oneself in the foot. Doing so will cut the inner surface of the hose and cause it to leak.
I've been testing using the barrier hose (about the same price per foot as the FC332/equiv. hose, but a whole lot easier to find) for over a year on my '65 Valiant DD. No leaks or other bad behavior at all.

No build thread here, the PO started one on B'Fix, but it s woefully out of date. This is the truck on the White Rim Trail in UT back in '09:

 

[broncoman1972]

ntsqd,

Just to verify, are these the fittings you used?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#push-to-connect-tube-fittings/=tft6t6


Very nice setup. Gives me something to aim for when I can get back on mine.

 

[ntsqd]

ntsqd,

Just to verify, are these the fittings you used?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#push-to-connect-tube-fittings/=tft6t6


Very nice setup. Gives me something to aim for when I can get back on mine.

That link takes me to the overview page for all of the Push to Connect fittings. There is a wide range of them available, and not all are suitable for this use. Specifically I used these fittings:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5523k19/=tfuivp
(Tested the link to re-open after clearing history, so it should take you to the right fitting.)

 

[SeanT4x4]

Ive actually been thinking about replacing my plastic fuel lines with the braided line kit from WH, Anybody have input on that?

 

[ntsqd]

Why? (Goes to look at their kit to learn about.)

 

[SeanT4x4]

well... basically because it seems like it would be a lot easier to run the braided lines than the hard lines. I have no body lift so there isn't tons of room. Also because my muffler has melted a spot on the hard plastic line. I did just realize the hard lines from BC cost half as much. So now I'm giving that another look.

 

[DirtDonk]

... basically because it seems like it would be a lot easier to run the braided lines than the hard lines. I have no body lift so there isn't tons of room.

Right you are in fact. Much easier.
You can run the generic store bought rubber fuel line too of course, for a fraction of the cost of either method, but you're paying that extra for longevity and reliable connectors, in addition to the cool factor with braided line.
I used to think flexible lines looked "cheap" on any vehicle, but after doing the first one, I realized that it really came down to the difference between a carefully laid out setup and a carelessly sloppy one. BIG DIFFERENCE!!! I've done a few in recent years and if they're laid out right, they look very professional indeed.

I happen to like the BC hard line kits a lot, and tend to bend my own hard line for different rigs because I'm always re-routing things from what is expected. It's harder to do, but also very clean looking and reliable.
There's nothing like a soft line to make it easier to do that re-routing around exhaust and other non-factory obstacles to get the job done fairly quickly. And nothing like a hard line to make it look more "factory" either. Even though some of the factories these days are using quite a bit of braided flex line in different places.

You'll still likely run into some areas where you have to bend/tweak the hard line kits, but the end result can be very sanitary.

Both choices to mull over.

Paul

 

[ntsqd]

The reason that I'm using the nylon is to replace the full length rubber fuel hose. I don't think that the generic fuel hose is a good call. This stuff they sell as "gasoline" is pretty aggressive towards a lot of rubbers. Which is why I'm using the emissions barrier hose as well. I see that the WH hose kit lists the hose as having a liner, excellent call on their part.

Going with the nylon is a significant departure from my previous projects. Until now they were all hand bent steel or aluminum tube. With a quality bender (hint: those only bend one size of tube and have two handles) this is a reasonably fast and easy process.