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Any Ford 9" ARB install experts out there?

jlylec

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
891
I'm in the process of upgrading my differential carrier housing to a nodular steel one and it uses 3.062 bearings. Apparently my stock one was 2.89 or something. I got a new rebuild kit with 3.062 bearings and stuff, but my ARB seal housing piece was set up for the smaller bearings. I didn't install the ARB originally so I'm kinda lost. I called ARB and they said it should be a little small and should work as is, but I don't think he understood what I was talking about.

It looks like the original pin-wrench, carrier adjuster nut piece may have been cut to accept the ARB seal housing piece (or whatever it's called) but I want to make sure with an expert that I should cut my new 3.062 piece to fit the ARB piece or is there one that I should buy.

I think if you've never set up an ARB you'll have no idea what I'm talking about but I'm hoping there are some ARB experts out there who may be able to guide me here. Thanks in advance!

Original ARB seal housing piece in the 2.89 carrier adjustment nut:


New 3.062 carrier adjuster nut on the left...original on the right. Looks like it may have been cut or grinded to accept the ARB piece, but it's real clean so maybe bought that way?:
 

Hozr

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 15, 2011
Messages
1,434
Loc.
Rogue Valley, OR
Do you have the manual?


ARB made some changes a few years back to strengthen the unit and this may have been on of them. Not sure why you would have different sizes on the bearings though. I thought all the 9" units were the same other than the carrier size (R&P). Are you sure you have the right bearing and race? verify the nodular case you got is for 31 vs 35 spline axles


http://www.4wheelparts.com/aux_incl/pdf.ashx?pdf=ARB_RD119_INS_1.pdf&line=ARB


ETA: The more I look at it I'm not sure you have the correct case. Bearing size should be the same. Not sure what that other piece you pictured is for but looks more like a space than an adjusting nut or it's for a different model
 
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jlylec

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
891
Yeah thanks. I do not have the manual the ARB came with but have seen the one you linked. They don't discuss the adjuster nut at all and the picture looks a bit different than mine too.

I was able to get a larger carrier bearing when I picked up the nodular iron cover. It's made for the 31 spline axles which I already have too.

The issue is the old nut isn't big enough on the OD. I do have new nuts that came with the cover but the hole in the middle of them isn't big enough for the ARB seal housing so I'll have to grind it out to fit if that's the right thing to do. Just not sure if I should.
 
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jlylec

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
891
Damn that's what I was afraid of. Probably can't buy the part individually, but I'll give them a call a bit later and see if I can.
 
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jlylec

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
891
Anyone out there happen to use the 2.89 nut and still have the 3.062 nut they don't need and would like to sell?
 
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jlylec

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
891
ARB sending me a new nut. Got lucky and caught the last one in their warehouse!
 

welndmn

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 12, 2001
Messages
2,112
You either need a seal housing or a nut, :)
The seal hosing it $50, the nut is $20.
 
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jlylec

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
891
if it doesn't show up let me know I am pretty sure I kept mine.


Thanks man that would be awesome. Something is showing up tomorrow as I got the tracking on it but who knows. It could end up being the wrong part. I'll definitely take you up on that if so. I've got to get back on the road. We had our first 70 degree day yesterday. Spring is almost here!
 
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jlylec

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
891
I got the right part in today from ARB (it's the clean one in the middle). Very good customer service from those guys!


Now I just need to figure out the best way to get this baked on crud off all the parts I need to reuse. I tried soaking in parts cleaner and scrubbing with a parts brush, scraping with a razor, and soaking in WD40 and taking a brass dremel brush to it. The dremel brush takes most of it off, but leaves a residue. Anybody have any better ideas how best to do it? I'd love some good tips to just do it right the first time.
 

broncodriver99

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 27, 2008
Messages
4,780
Loc.
Glen Allen, VA
Depends on the original base solvent.

I have had good luck with kerosene. Diesel works too just smells worse.

Some things will require MEK or one of the really tough(harmful) solvents.

Acetone will also soften most things up.

I keep about 5 or 6 different solvents around the shop as there is no telling which one will do the trick. Whichever is closest to the original solvent. Good thing is Lowes carries just about any kind in a quart can pretty cheaply.

That is some funky looking stuff. I wonder how the heck that stuff got in there.
 

broncodriver99

Bronco Guru
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Jan 27, 2008
Messages
4,780
Loc.
Glen Allen, VA
I would be careful with those o-rings with the solvents though. They are probably Viton which is a pretty tough material but it can be damaged.
 
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jlylec

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
891
Thanks for the feedback on solvents! It is a weird stuff. All the gunk I cleaned out of the tubes was this super fine metalically mud so I'm guessing it's just baked on mud and metal shavings mixed with gear oil, but it's super tough. Feels almost tough like powder coating but more rough. I'll try a few different types of solvents and see what works best. I'll try to remove those o-rings first too. Thanks again!
 
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jlylec

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
891
I pulled the o-rings out of that seal housing and have been soaking it in carb cleaner for the past few hours. The stuff is still hard on there. How long should I let it soak before I give up on that and try something different?
 
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