Reviving the dead... What do I need???

[Slick]

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After literally sitting 10 years, I'm fire' up the bronco and gunna finally scrape off the LAST of the booger welds and mismatched suspention and bad work done to it over its decades on earth as a bronco.

Mechanically it was fine I'm just anal about it so I parked it after my mom mistook clutch for brake (she's old) and bent the bumper and I lost my painter.

sry for the jabber but ya- what do I need to get to get her started again??

Oil, fresh gas, new rubber fuel lines, MAYBE plugs? ....am I forgetting anything?

 

[Slick]

Plans are to drain ALL fluids and cycle the fresh oil before starting it. Also replacing and cracked or rotted fuel lines.

ima test the coolant and go from there...

Next phase is to do new front suspention (duffs or bloody), go BACK to shorty headers and 2/1 exhaust, and install the bc skid plate I've had for ever, do some front anti-sway bars AND hydro boot. Then it'll be ready for both the trail and car-show weekend in st ignace!

 

[JWMcCrary]

Sitting for 10 years, I would drop the fuel tank and make sure it is cleaned out good and flush the fuel lines replacing any rubber. That's a pain but for sure one item that will bite you after sitting for so long.

 

[Justafordguy]

X2, clean out the tank, lines, and replace filter. Maybe even pull the top off the carb and clean it out.

 

[half cab]

Be ready to replace fuel n water pumps as well as brake MC. POSSIBLE carb rebuild? After you get it back goin watch underneath for stuff like wheel/axle seals P.yoke seals.

 

[sertguy]

Mine sat for 7 years and HAD to do everything stated above plus the head and intake gaskets. Apparently, the old coolant ate thru the gaskets.

 

[hucklburry rev2]

So far I've done all the fluids ($10 harbor freight pump made the trans easy), rebuilt carb, some vacuum hoses, added a fuel filter back by the tank and a new one at the carb.

New battery and the two cables coming from it.

It needs a new brake master so I bought that. Once that is installed, I will check each wheel cylinder, for $10 each its probably just better to change them.

Coolant was going to get flushed, but the radiator has a small leak, so off for repair. I bought new hoses, you know those old ones will blow at a bad time.

This one sat for 10 years, it fired up easy on the old plugs/cap/rotor but once running I changed them, and have spare points/condenser new in the glovebox.

It is a very original 66 with a 170. It fired easy, I changed the oil, checked plugs and put some oil in each cylinder, hand turned it some, then spun it with the coil unplugged, then fired it up.

Good luck with it, hope it was as easy as this one.

 

[Mark]

I'd prime the oil pump also just to circulate some oil in it before startup

 

[Slick]

**update

We gave it a once over about 3 years ago now SO, the gas tank was still full and MOSTLY fresh (looks like we used stabil and started w/93 octane).

But... Back axel bearings are SHOT. I need to get a junk distributer to cycle the oil... Unless there's an easier way???

Other than that- things look fairly good!

 

[Slick]

Oh, so ya- is there any better way to cycle the oil than to junk out an old distributer for its shaft to put on my drill??

 

[DC_Gearhead]

Slick - Thanks for this post!! I'm about to do the same to a 68 that's been sitting for 20+ years. Good info!!

 

[romegadave]

Don't forget to check all rubber brakes lines even after the MC......never know when something will collapse inside.

 

[Mark]

Oh, so ya- is there any better way to cycle the oil than to junk out an old distributer for its shaft to put on my drill??

Yes, I can't remember, but a 1/4 (pretty sure 1/4") or 5/16 socket will work I have one welded onto the end of a long screwdriver for turning the oil pump but you can weld the socket onto a shaft and chuck it up and prime away.
You might be okay just cranking the engine with the coil unplugged. I'd rather prime it though