WH Wrap Trap Saved My Rear, Literally

[Scoop]

After a recent wheeling trip I noticed my steering wheel had shifted a bit - it was a little off from level when going straight. I checked the front end linkage thinking it might be a bent tie rod but everything looked fine. Today driving back up the mountain to our cabin it started driving very squirelly and it felt like the rear end was loose. Looks like I broke the leaf bolt/pin and most of the leafs had slid back to the rear spring hanger. The axle was loose on the spring and was moving back and forth. The only thing keeping it in place was the Wrap Trap! Without it the axle would have moved a lot more probably hitting the fender or coming off the spring completely.

With the Wrap Trap keeping the axle in a reasonable position I was able to drive it slowly all the way back to the cabin. Now to figure out how to repair it with the limited tools I have available here in Colorado!!

 

[Bonefizz]

Bonus benefit of the Wrap Trap!

 

[WILDHORSES]

And I thought it was just for saving drive shafts.;D Thanks for posting Gary.

Jim

 

[fordfan]

Sheared a tie bolt! I've experienced that before and it was before my Wrap Trap install. Somehow the transmission mount for the ZF broke too .I really think the little narrow pedal on the right side of the drivers floor board is the cause of it!

 

[Broncobowsher]

Or the wrap trap caused it.

Not trying to be a dick, but if you look at the forces that it creates it puts extra forward stress on the leaf springs. The torque it is controlling by pulling on the top link is added (on top of regular) forces pushing the axle forward against the springs.

I'll also put out that loose U-bolts are a good source of the axle shifting/shearing the head off the centering bolt. About the only thing worse is aluminum blocks or shims that deform under load loosening the clamp load on the U-bolts.

 

[Scoop]

Sheared a tie bolt! I've experienced that before and it was before my Wrap Trap install. Somehow the transmission mount for the ZF broke too .I really think the little narrow pedal on the right side of the drivers floor board is the cause of it!

Right foot combined with a NWFab Blackbox-i doubler!

Or the wrap trap caused it.

Not trying to be a dick, but if you look at the forces that it creates it puts extra forward stress on the leaf springs. The torque it is controlling by pulling on the top link is added (on top of regular) forces pushing the axle forward against the springs.

I'll also put out that loose U-bolts are a good source of the axle shifting/shearing the head off the centering bolt. About the only thing worse is aluminum blocks or shims that deform under load loosening the clamp load on the U-bolts.

I think the doubler mentioned above plus a full spool plus the Wrap Trap all may have contributed to the forces that resulted in shearing the pin. But I don’t think the Wrap Trap itself caused the failure. That said, the Wrap Trap solved my axle wrap issue and held it all together to get me home when the pin sheared. The u-bolts were not loose until the spring pack slid back. Also I have zero rates in the spring pack but I don’t think they contributed to the issue.

 

[SP73]

Now to figure out how to repair it with the limited tools I have available here in Colorado!!

If you have any way to get it up to Castle Rock, you are more than welcome to use my shop/tools/help. Just throwing it out there.

 

[WILDHORSES]

Or the wrap trap caused it.

Not trying to be a dick, but if you look at the forces that it creates it puts extra forward stress on the leaf springs. The torque it is controlling by pulling on the top link is added (on top of regular) forces pushing the axle forward against the springs.

I'll also put out that loose U-bolts are a good source of the axle shifting/shearing the head off the centering bolt. About the only thing worse is aluminum blocks or shims that deform under load loosening the clamp load on the U-bolts.

It's all good Tim, I think the pros and cons of the Wrap Trap have been hashed out ever since we put it out there. I would add we were breaking leaf spring center bolts long before the Wrap Trap. Most of our choices come from our own personal experience so for me I can't seem to wheel without one. At least on the leaf spring rigs. Without it I brake my rear driveshaft. This was especially noticeable when I swapped rearend housings a few years ago before AZ Stampede. I did not put the Trap on at first so after a couple runs and two broken shafts I welded the bracket to the housing and it's been good since. All things considered Atlas 4 speed 5.5 suspension etc. I also have always noticed u-bolts get loose and cause a lot of problems. Our pre and post trail maintenance routine has improved over the years. It's amazing what one good day of rock crawling can loosen up on a rig.

Jim

 

[Scoop]

Yeah, I will need to start checking tightness on the U-bolts after each wheeling trip. None of the nuts had backed off any that I could see, but they may have loosened a bit. BUT the U-bolts did hold the axle in place for several weeks after I noticed the change in the steering wheel. I am guessing that is when the pin sheared and moved the axle a tiny bit - enough to change the tracking some.

If you have any way to get it up to Castle Rock, you are more than welcome to use my shop/tools/help. Just throwing it out there.

Thanks! Appreciate the offer. I do have buddy locally with a Big Bronco and a pretty well equipped shop and he has offered to let me use his garage.

 

[sprdv1]

With the Wrap Trap keeping the axle in a reasonable position I was able to drive it slowly all the way back to the cabin. Now to figure out how to repair it with the limited tools I have available here in Colorado!![/QUOTE

you always remember them limping back to camp situations lol

straps hooked up to keep stuff in place and all that

good luck sir

 

[bchesley]

I’ll give my two cents. I had to add the wrap trap after my very first wheeling trip.

My axle started clunking on take off at the end of the day. The pin turned itself into a J bolt and I collapsed the front half of the factory spring mount. It would rotate and move depending on what pedal I used. I added the trap and the longer perches and not had any issues since. That was several years ago and lots of other broken parts from wheeling since. The rear end is still super solid. I’ll run one on every leaf spring setup I wheel. Good insurance.


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[ntsqd]

The center pin really would only be loaded in shear when the u-bolts are too loose. Any number of causes for that to happen. Otherwise the tight u-bolts clamp the perch to the spring with enough friction to hold the axle in place and the center pin only does the initial location.

If you really want to screw up the leaf springs add a ladder bar type traction aid. To see the affect this would have tack weld tabs on ~30" long tube extending forwards and bolt it to a couple of the pinion carrier bolts. Then cycle the rear suspension noting where the tip of the bar points and at what angle compared to where it is at static ride height.

 

[bchesley]

The center pin really would only be loaded in shear when the u-bolts are too loose. Any number of causes for that to happen. Otherwise the tight u-bolts clamp the perch to the spring with enough friction to hold the axle in place and the center pin only does the initial location.

If you really want to screw up the leaf springs add a ladder bar type traction aid. To see the affect this would have tack weld tabs on ~30" long tube extending forwards and bolt it to a couple of the pinion carrier bolts. Then cycle the rear suspension noting where the tip of the bar points and at what angle compared to where it is at static ride height.

They were tight before the wheeling trip because I checked. I think once the front of the perch collapsed it caused the rotation, the rotation tweaked my pin. If you are going to wheel hard with a big lift you will eventually have to address axle wrap. No if ands or buts about it.


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[ntsqd]

Perch collapse or bending is probably the second most common way for them to work loose. The first has to be lift block failures.

 

[Dlish]

My center pin went when the rear leaf mount can opened off the frame, make sure all spring mounts are still solid too.

 

[Scoop]

Started working on the repair today. Turns out BOTH sides had sheared. The driver’s side had just not loosened up as much. The passenger side bolt was totally missing. Half of the the driver’s side bolt was still there holding the spring pack in place. The shortest leaf on the passenger side is missing which I did not notice until I counted the leafs on both sides!

It looks like the bolts sheared long before the Wrap Trap was installed - the rust on the shear was very old. They probably sheared when I had severe axle wrap which was the reason I installed the WT.

 

[Scoop]

All fixed!

 

[Skiddy]

good thing you checked the other side glad you got it all fixed, obtw I would keep the WT;D

 

[toddz69]

All fixed!

Gary: is there anything supporting that brake line? Is there a support of some sort where the hard line meets the rubber one?

Todd Z.

 

[sprdv1]

All fixed!

Nice.. definitely had potential for bad situation..