14 bolt rear end build thread, shaved 15 bolt, ring gear turn...

[nvrstuk]

This is exactly why the "banter" and "other stuff" is good to have...


Brakes and e-brakes on discs. Check out LugNut4x4 for Eldorado calipers for ebrakes. He makes sure the piston has a pin or bump that sticks out that is supposed to eliminate the tpical barely work POS Caddy caliper issue (I tried them about 20 yrs ago...worthless then).

Dan Wheeler has been trying all kinds of stuff on his Caddy calipers trying to get them to work and what he came up with was the piston rotating and causing the brake to back off or not tighten enough. Earlier this week I sent him this link to LugNut4x4 ...I'll check with Dan and see if he thinks this is the fix!

https://lugnut4x4.com/product/emergency-brake-hardware-kit/

need to dig around and find the pic showing the caliper piston.

 

[79INA69]

I know 2 guys that cut the bottom off using a hand held ban saw, grinder and strait edge using the 15b template as a guide. I think Ian from xtreme 4x4 did this too. Used a file to flatten out the sealing surface. Both guys sent the ring gears out or bought pre cut gears from vendor. The reason I only cut the lip on mine was the ribbing makes a nice radius to slide off, and my pinion angle is so severe (15-20 degrees) that the area that would be cut off is already tilted up 2". So In my case, a lot of extra work and money for 3/4"...no. When your making the cut you are doing so just like setting the truss, with you pinion angle set first.

 

[nvrstuk]

I was mocking my housing up yesterday as I had been thinking exactly what you just posted...most of what is going to be cut off was going to angled up at 17 degrees or so.


Without figuring the angles yet -- hopefully tomorrow on a sheet of plywood that I can draw full size - droop, full stuff, drawings with Klune removed or not... and get direct degree readings from. Beats doing geometry!! lol

Hopefully I'll get the joists boxed off under the kitchen floor, hole for ductwork cut properly and get some wiring connected for the downdraft fan...then a couple more Bronco minutes...

 

[Yeller]

I’ve shaved 9” housings to compensate for the pinion angle. I’ve wanted to do the same for the 14 but just never got commissioned and couldn’t bring myself to spend the time to do it for a build of my own

 

[79INA69]

I mean really once your on a 40" tire, with 700ft lbs, is the shave really necessary? The rock will kindly just move out of the way when it sees you coming ;D

 

[nvrstuk]

That's funny...maybe I should run a couple of hardsurfacing beads and grind a sharp edge to it!

 

[ntsqd]

I'd cast a jaundiced eye on that hangy-down rib with some sort of metal removal tool in hand.

Hard-facing the bottom does sound like an excellent idea. Not all rocks are that considerate, some are down right obstinate!

 

[nvrstuk]

Weather is supposed to be ugly tomorrow- 64deg...(fall is falling)...so maybe a full sized dimension drawing layout fest tomorrow. I have to get the critical numbers to know appr pinion angle, can I keep the doubler, keep full suspension travel, etc...it's driving me nuts not knowing the "entire plan" yet!! lol

I do kinda like the hardsurfacing idea if I decide to go TMF full shave... 2-3 narrow hard beads for sliding...less drag for sure...

 

[Yeller]

I have used AR500 plate to make the filler pieces for. Tough stuff. I have pieces of it laying around from building rifle targets.

 

[ntsqd]

HEH! my wife bored a .500 hole right thru some 3/8" AR500 from 208 yards away. Was NOT a good idea for the Barrett's owner to tell her that she probably wouldn't hit it.....

That alloy would be a good choice for such plate! Core-10 might be another good choice. From what little I've read on the topic not too many of the AR HSLA's are good with impact, but those two are.

 

[nvrstuk]

Interesting numbers on my 9" to 14 bolt floor drawings... actually blown away with them...

 

[ntsqd]

I guess we've got to wait until next season to know what they are?

 

[nvrstuk]

Hahaha...patience!!

I had to take a picture for the "visual learners"!!

The chalk lines are representative of the DS angles with and w/o the Klune in place.

I will put notes on the board so I can get feedback in case I drew some lines or wrote some inaccurate numbers down

Below are a couple pics. One showing my actualfull size drawing that I took direct readings off of with my angle gauge and the other are my reference measurements. .

The t-case measurements are on the left side of the drawing and the rear end is on the right side. Looking at it from the drivers side.

 

[Yeller]

HEH! my wife bored a .500 hole right thru some 3/8" AR500 from 208 yards away. Was NOT a good idea for the Barrett's owner to tell her that she probably wouldn't hit it.....

That alloy would be a good choice for such plate! Core-10 might be another good choice. From what little I've read on the topic not too many of the AR HSLA's are good with impact, but those two are.

Haha that sounds like fun. I’ve been using 1/2” for years and only thing I’ve seen hurt it (including 338 lupia) is 204 at 50 yards, was still smoking at 4400fps. The damage seems to start at speeds over 3700.

The biggest issue I have with steel rifle targets is hanging them, using chains creates frag and welding it doesn’t allow it to move enough and eventually has a failure. I’ve developed a lightish weight bracket that sets them on top of a pistol plate stand that allows them to bounce, seems to hold up well the school I built them for says they have a bracket failure about every 80,000 rounds of 5.56, weld it back together and good to go, they have been using the same plates for over 10 years. Not very good for return sales lol.

 

[Yeller]

Nice drawing
It’s actually better than I expected. If you were running a “normalish” 351 I’d be tempted to go to 5.38’s and run the 205, it would still be plenty low. With your “not so normal sbf” I bet it is low enough with 5.13 but require a little more modulation with throttle and brakes, I’m sure the 5.13’s are more than enough on the street with your stump melting engine. In my experience with big power engines and compliant suspension less low range is needed, they effortlessly muscle their way around, gearing is just needed to ease torque converter heat. It’s close enough to the target I’d try it before paying for an atlas.

Bit of personal trivia preference, I don’t like being more than 45:1 in my opinion more than that is too low. beyond that and you can’t out run a roll. when I ran the NP241 I was at 37:1 and never thought It wasn’t low enough with my old anemic TBI motor. Used to wheel a truck at 29:1 and thought it was low enough, and it was heavy (6800#), and under powered (same TBI motor I had in the bronco).

 

[nvrstuk]

Great input...again thanks.

One of the real benefits to an auto to me is the ability to be able to stomp on the skinny pedal to avoid an endo... I used to think my super low 200+:1 was the only way to go but...I'm learning...

Now I'm measuring the front..as I'm worried that I will lose a couple inches of flex even with the HP D60... I'll do some more single line art work.

 

[Yeller]

The 45:1 is with an auto. More than that stomping the gas just makes lots of noise if your really in trouble, same can be said for needing to bump with less gear, less throttle is needed since your not waiting, even nice engines need to wind up. One thing I learned early on doing the rock crawling comps was the guys that were running really deep reduction were making nasty rolls because they couldn’t out run it or when they needed momentum and/or wheel speed they were on the rev limiter and getting denied when the guys with less gear zipped right up.

Ah the drive shaft angle dance........

 

[nvrstuk]

Here's the front D60
Full 16" of suspension at each diff really requires a bunch of measuring...and moving gear boxes around!

Looks like I'll be right at the limit for 1350 joints... I believe 1410's will allow a bit more flex BUT moving the 205 forward 6 3/4" creates additional issues...

 

[nvrstuk]

Here's my 205 to HP60 drawing.
HP60 would be on your left and t-case on the right...looking at the drawing as if from the drivers side.

What makes the HP60 DS angle worse than the rear is the the 205 yoke angle is tilted back 3 1/2 degrees which makes the frt DS angle even worse!

31 deg plus 3 1/2 deg and I get a CV joint and ujoint at 34 1/2 degrees...not good in any book.

 

[nvrstuk]

So here are the issues with moving/eliminating my Klune as it moves the 205 6 3/4" forward...

The front radius arm bolts will have to be removed (probably tap thru the frame and brakets just to have more shear) and weld it securely around the brkt to the frame, since I worked so hard to get the 205 clocked up this high, I have almost a 1/4" btw the frame and the side of the 205 case... the radius arm bracket would touch the 205 when moved forward.

1410 ujoint I'm sure won't clear my shift cable...if it even allows for more DS angle

Also, I have a couple dozen clocking positions with the Klune to 205 clock ring. Without that ring I wonder how my 205 clocking angle will be?

Wonder how I could know now what the clocking positions are before pulling it apart... plans aren't over-rated!