Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines

[syndicate1]

Hey guys! Does anyone know where to buy stainless braided brake lines with the proper sized fittings on each end which would eliminate having to use the brass adapters?

My rig has the WH stainless brake lines from the proportioning valve to the master cylinder. I recently installed a brake booster on my ‘74 and (at the same time ) I replaced the old (smaller) master cylinder with a new (larger) ‘77 master cylinder.

For the life of me, the brass fitting adapter will not stop leaking at the brake like. I even went to the extent of returning the master cylinder just in case that was bad. NO IT HAS NOT BEEN OVER TIGHTENED

New Master Cylinder

Old Master Cylinder (for reference)

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[SteveL]

Are you sure the adapters are correct? Make sure you don't have a standard adapter going to a metric hole and vise versa. I've had that happen on brake line stuff. If you have an Earl's or hydraulic supply around they can do custom pressure hoses. Local ap stores especially napa should have adapters in stock but then you're back to making sure what your thread sizes are.

 

[Jebus]

If you are noticing fluid under the master cylinder there is a good chance it's not the fittings but the lid on the master cyl. Look at where it is coming from at the lid vent. I have the same issue. In my research I have read that the piston has changed in these master cylinders with a two stage piston. The first sequence is high volume taking up the "slack' in the application of the brakes. This causes the fluid to surge in the reservoir more than the rubber bellows in the master cylinder can compensate for causing fluid to leak out at the vent divot in the lid. Short story, you will never get it to stop. I run my fluid levels lower which slows it down some. I have also tried flipping the rubber bellows in the lid. I am thinking of going to a different style of master cylinder. Some say they all do this...

 

[68Broncoz]

I purchase mine from TBP but they are hard lines not flex stainless. Also inline has a good video on the proper way to seat a brake line. Once I did it this way I had more success in stopping the leaks in my stainless lines,

https://www.inlinetube.com/pages/tech-support

Chris

 

[EPB72]

Personally I'd run hard lines in place of the rubber flex hoses ..most parts stores have or can get the correct sized Line tube nuts .You would have to flare the lines ,,bend up the lines and create section with a coil in it maybe 3-4 turns ,the tube nuts create a direct fit no adapters.. by the looks in tour pic maybe 3/16 line 1/2 in inverted flare an 3/16 line 7/16 inverted flare nuts .....or tighten and lossen the fittings a few times as well as the lines to form a good seal..I also like to use red lock tight on the adaptor to MC threads .not on the lines though..

 

[SteveL]

If you are noticing fluid under the master cylinder there is a good chance it's not the fittings but the lid on the master cyl. Look at where it is coming from at the lid vent. I have the same issue. In my research I have read that the piston has changed in these master cylinders with a two stage piston. The first sequence is high volume taking up the "slack' in the application of the brakes. This causes the fluid to surge in the reservoir more than the rubber bellows in the master cylinder can compensate for causing fluid to leak out at the vent divot in the lid. Short story, you will never get it to stop. I run my fluid levels lower which slows it down some. I have also tried flipping the rubber bellows in the lid. I am thinking of going to a different style of master cylinder. Some say they all do this...

I've also had a couple mc's with leaky lids. No matter what I tried, new lid, big hose clamps couldn't stop the leak. Both times ended up just buying another mc.

 

[hankjr]

For hoses. I go to a local industrial hose place that makes whatever I need with whatever ends.

Hank

 

[syndicate1]

Are you sure the adapters are correct? Make sure you don't have a standard adapter going to a metric hole and vise versa. I've had that happen on brake line stuff. If you have an Earl's or hydraulic supply around they can do custom pressure hoses. Local ap stores especially napa should have adapters in stock but then you're back to making sure what your thread sizes are.

Good question. Yes, the adapters are correct, that was the first thing I checked when I spotted the leak.

If you are noticing fluid under the master cylinder there is a good chance it's not the fittings but the lid on the master cyl. Look at where it is coming from at the lid vent. I have the same issue. In my research I have read that the piston has changed in these master cylinders with a two stage piston. The first sequence is high volume taking up the "slack' in the application of the brakes. This causes the fluid to surge in the reservoir more than the rubber bellows in the master cylinder can compensate for causing fluid to leak out at the vent divot in the lid. Short story, you will never get it to stop. I run my fluid levels lower which slows it down some. I have also tried flipping the rubber bellows in the lid. I am thinking of going to a different style of master cylinder. Some say they all do this...

The fluid is coming 100% from the hoses. The first MC I installed leaked from the lid and the hose fitting. This is the second MC and it is only leaking at the fitting. So far the lid is not leaking, knock on wood!

 

[68Broncoz]

I would talk to Tom's they seem to have the correct ends for the master cylinder and proportioning valves without adapters.

 

[SteveL]

I would talk to Tom's they seem to have the correct ends for the master cylinder and proportioning valves without adapters.

They may have the hoses made for what they sell. Where the problem lies is where the mc came from. Many times you go in for a new direct replacement mc and the bore is the same but the holes for the brake lines are a different size. I've got a box full of the line adapters from all the swaps over the years. That's also why I mentioned watch for metric threads now that most of the parts come from overseas. Guys doing the Saginaw ps pump run into it. Some are metric some are standard where the pressure hose attaches

 

[Broncomt]

I had brake fluid leaking out of mustang master cylinder lid. Read somewhere to only fill to 1/4" below the top. Took care of the leak.

 

[syndicate1]

Thanks for all of the input and feedback. After alot of researching the small details, I think I might have found the problem. Please tell me if you think this could be the culprit....

It turns out the NAPA supplied MC is part #M2076. Apparently this MC is intended for mid 70's Ford Sedans.

NAPA's MC part number specifically for a 76-77 Bronco is part #M2168.

Both MC's look, smell and feel the same BUT... the differences appear to be the sizes of the Primary Outlet Thread and Secondary Outlet Thread.

M2076

Mid 70's Sedan
Brake Master Cylinder Line Thread Size - 9/16"-18, 1/2"-20
Primary Outlet Size - (1) 9/16-18
Primary Outlet Thread - 9/16 in.x18
Secondary Outlet Thread - 1/2 in.x20

M2168

Brake Master Cylinder Line Thread Size - 9/16"-18 or 1/2"-20, 7/16"-24
Primary Outlet Size - (1) 9/16-18
Primary Outlet Thread - 1/2 in.x20
Secondary Outlet Thread - 7/16 in.x24

 

[toddz69]

Thanks for all of the input and feedback. After alot of researching the small details, I think I might have found the problem. Please tell me if you think this could be the culprit....

It turns out the NAPA supplied MC is part #M2076. Apparently this MC is intended for mid 70's Ford Sedans.

NAPA's MC part number specifically for a 76-77 Bronco is part #M2168.

Both MC's look, smell and feel the same BUT... the differences appear to be the sizes of the Primary Outlet Thread and Secondary Outlet Thread.

M2076

Mid 70's Sedan
Brake Master Cylinder Line Thread Size - 9/16"-18, 1/2"-20
Primary Outlet Size - (1) 9/16-18
Primary Outlet Thread - 9/16 in.x18
Secondary Outlet Thread - 1/2 in.x20

M2168

Brake Master Cylinder Line Thread Size - 9/16"-18 or 1/2"-20, 7/16"-24
Primary Outlet Size - (1) 9/16-18
Primary Outlet Thread - 1/2 in.x20
Secondary Outlet Thread - 7/16 in.x24

Those are different enough in size that they would require different adapters, if that's what your question is?

Todd Z.

 

[Apogee]

I don't know if there were different MC's on the 76/77, but my '77 master cylinder has a 7/16-24 inverted flare outlet port for the rear brakes (forward port) and 1/2-20 inverted flare outlet port for the front brakes (rearward port). That 9/16-18 above looks like a typo to me or there were two versions of MC's for that application.

If hard lines are not wanted, then I would probably run either banjo fittings to AN or inverted flare X AN adapter fittings to AN hoses, but either way would require new hoses.

 

[Rustytruck]

best clean that brake fluid off the inner fender unless you want a bare spot. next time put a piece of foil down before dealing with brake fluid.

 

[syndicate1]

Those are different enough in size that they would require different adapters, if that's what your question is?

Todd Z.

That's what I'm thinking...

 

[syndicate1]

Those are different enough in size that they would require different adapters, if that's what your question is?

Todd Z.

Rethinking your question... Do you think the differences (on paper) could have any functional or performance differences? I have no idea if the internal parts are different. They both have 1” bores.


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[toddz69]

Rethinking your question... Do you think the differences (on paper) could have any functional or performance differences? I have no idea if the internal parts are different. They both have 1” bores.


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No, there would be no functional or performance differences.

Todd Z.