Engine to dash gauge feed wire

[f2502011]

Would anyone have a spare engine to gauge harness? This harness has a plug that connects at the firewall and runs to the oil pressure, temp sensor, + coil lead etc. I can order a new one but thought I would see if someone had one they didn’t need and could spare first.

 

[DirtDonk]

Don’t have one myself unfortunately. But back to the top for you.
It should not matter what year the bronco is I don’t think, but what about the engine? Is it a V-8 or six?

 

[f2502011]

It's an 8. I really just need the red wire with the green stripe and the weather resistant push on electrical connector. I want to splice it into the new wire I'm running for the pertronix so it looks original without cutting into the factory harness.

 

[Rustytruck]

run a want ad in our clasiffied parts section.

 

[DirtDonk]

Probably better to do it your way, but instead of asking for the harness so you can cut it out of another, mention you're just looking for some Red w/green wire left over. Maybe someone's got a ragged out harness that they don't want to sell/give to someone because it's so ratty, but that bit of wire you're looking for is still in good shape.
Might widen the possibilities for your search.

And in a pinch if you really want it to look stock you can simply buy a short length of Red w/green wire from one of the wire suppliers.
Not every one has stripe options, but there are some online that actually stock the Ford colors and some members here have bought from them with good results.
I'm sure most are looking for more wire than you are, but maybe their minimums are not that onerous.

On a side note, that wire is the business end of a resistor wire, so you really should not run your Pertronix distributor module from it. They want to see 12v rather than the 7-9v that you typically see at the coil.
So if you're forced to buy a few feet of it, you can just run it all the way to the ignition switch and splice it in there, before the resistor wire.

paul

 

[f2502011]

Probably better to do it your way, but instead of asking for the harness so you can cut it out of another, mention you're just looking for some Red w/green wire left over. Maybe someone's got a ragged out harness that they don't want to sell/give to someone because it's so ratty, but that bit of wire you're looking for is still in good shape.
Might widen the possibilities for your search.

And in a pinch if you really want it to look stock you can simply buy a short length of Red w/green wire from one of the wire suppliers.
Not every one has stripe options, but there are some online that actually stock the Ford colors and some members here have bought from them with good results.
I'm sure most are looking for more wire than you are, but maybe their minimums are not that onerous.

On a side note, that wire is the business end of a resistor wire, so you really should not run your Pertronix distributor module from it. They want to see 12v rather than the 7-9v that you typically see at the coil.
So if you're forced to buy a few feet of it, you can just run it all the way to the ignition switch and splice it in there, before the resistor wire.

paul

Good idea. That piece of wire is on the connector opposite the resistor wire. My understanding is that the large pink wire is the source of the resistance. You take the red green wire from the other end of the harness and put it into a wire with full 12 volts you would see 12 volts not 7-9. So I would harvest a red/green or just use some red wire attach a male bullet connector to the end without a connector and plug into the blue female bullet connector that provides 12+ volts and have full voltage at the coil? I do have some red wire with green stripe just not with the 90 degree female pigtail socket. I may just use that and a ring terminal on the end.

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes, if the Blue wire is the source then you get the full 12v. And you already tested it and found it's not getting power in the ACC position, so that's perfect. No chance of a melting module or coil while hanging out and listening to the radio.

Paul

 

[f2502011]

Yes, if the Blue wire is the source then you get the full 12v. And you already tested it and found it's not getting power in the ACC position, so that's perfect. No chance of a melting module or coil while hanging out and listening to the radio.

Paul

No radio in this one

 

[DirtDonk]

I just knew you were going to say that!
Well just remember not to leave the key on anyway.

I think this will be better anyway. It's still looking mostly stock, and you won't have any extra wires on the coil itself if you connect the distributor to the new wire and leave the old one (even the resistor) on the coil. Or have you determined that your new coil and Ignitor are supposed to run 12v? If so then I guess you can just run both from that Blue wire (maybe that was your intent in all this anyway) and still keep the regular number of wires on the coil.

Paul

 

[f2502011]

I just knew you were going to say that!
Well just remember not to leave the key on anyway.

I think this will be better anyway. It's still looking mostly stock, and you won't have any extra wires on the coil itself if you connect the distributor to the new wire and leave the old one (even the resistor) on the coil. Or have you determined that your new coil and Ignitor are supposed to run 12v? If so then I guess you can just run both from that Blue wire (maybe that was your intent in all this anyway) and still keep the regular number of wires on the coil.

Paul

New coil and ignitor are supposed to have a minimum of 8 volts 12 suggested which it would have. I did a primary resistance test and it was outside the allowable range (1.5-3.5) to be able to keep the stock resistance wire setup. I think it was between 4 and 4.5. I could probably still run the original stock yellow top coil but think that's risky so I plan to shelve that one.

My understanding of the directions is if it's outside of this 1.5-3.5 range, you have to bypass it altogether. I don't think I can run the blue wire directly to the pertronix in the distributor and use the red/green wire on the stock engine to gauge harness that plugs into the resistance wire plug on the firewall on the coil + terminal like stock. Thinking I would have to run both the red pertronix wire to the + side of the coil along with the new wire from the unused switched blue 12V wire.

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes that’s one way.
Or the other I was alluding to earlier was connect the two red with green wires to the blue wire and run them independently. One to the coil and one to the distributor.
But your way is simpler and probably looks fine on top of the engine as well.
Either way there’s always gonna be one extra wire there because of the igniter. So that’s just something to decide where it’s going to be and live with it.