Steering Column Flange Rubbing on Steering Wheel

[FoMoCoBronCo]

Working on a 1971 bronco with a donor column from a 75 after a C4 and power steering upgrade.

As you can see from the picture below, when I tighten the steering wheel nut down, it cinches the wheel down to the point where it touches and rubs on the column flange. It touching at the top, but the bottom gap is a little close for comfort as well.

I did the following:

1. Loosened the 2 column mounting bolts to the dash
2. Loosened the column collar that holds the column to the support bracket at the firewall
3. Loosened the lower steering shaft clamp.

Then I tried to separate the wheel from the flange a little by pulling on the wheel and pushing on the column. Even used a rubber mallet to try to unstick anything that might be stuck- no luck. And this is a newly rebuilt column, so no rust or corrosion hanging anything up.

Any ideas what I’m missing or what I should try next?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[thegreatjustino]

Look under the dash and see if the column is pushed all the way down on the slotted holes on the mounting bracket. If so, there's no more adjustment unless you slot the holes further. If it's not all the way down, it's hanging up on something. My guess would be the rubber gasket between the column and firewall.

 

[FoMoCoBronCo]

Look under the dash and see if the column is pushed all the way down on the slotted holes on the mounting bracket. If so, there's no more adjustment unless you slot the holes further. If it's not all the way down, it's hanging up on something. My guess would be the rubber gasket between the column and firewall.

The column is pushed all the way down, yes. I’m a little hesitant to start cutting into the steering column, especially since it was designed to fit with a proper gap. I’m wondering if I have installed something in such a way that is pulling the shaft down towards the steering gear too much, or if I’ve installed the collar and the flange in such a way that they aren’t seated all the way down on the column

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[thegreatjustino]

Do you have the correct metal bushing over the steering shaft and then the spring that goes between said bushing and the steering wheel?

 

[FoMoCoBronCo]

Do you have the correct metal bushing over the steering shaft and then the spring that goes between said bushing and the steering wheel?

This is an automatic steering column off of a 1975. I have the rubber-encased upper bushing locked in place with a snap ring on the steering shaft. Then I’m mounting the steering wheel on straight after that. No spring between the two. The only two springs I’m aware of in the entire steering column is one at the base for tension while shifting, and another between the horn button and the steering wheel for back pressure when depressing the horn. The steering column I took out had one where you are talking about, but that was a three on the tree off a 71.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Oldtimer]

EDIT: based on a 75 steering column.
Steering shaft is supported by bearings (3518) at both ends.
Fore & aft movement of shaft is limited by spring (3520) at top and clamp (3D681) at bottom, both of which butt against bearings.
You may be able to loosen pinch bolt on clamp and slide steering shaft aft (toward driver) to give you clearance between steering wheel and column flange.

 

[FoMoCoBronCo]

EDIT: based on a 75 steering column.
Steering shaft is supported by bearings (3518) at both ends.
Fore & aft movement of shaft is limited by spring (3520) at top and clamp (3D681) at bottom, both of which butt against bearings.
You may be able to loosen pinch bolt on clamp and slide steering shaft aft (toward driver) to give you clearance between steering wheel and column flange.

View attachment 916854

I have tried loosening the pinch bolt on the clamp (3D681) but the shaft will not move. That being said, it is attached all the way to the gearbox, so I’m not sure where the extra length would come from.

With regard to the spring 3520, I didn’t know one went there… this schematic I was working off of doesn’t show a spring there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Oldtimer]

Looking at last photo you posted:
The turnsignal switch has a SINGLE contact for horn circuit, and
The steering wheel has two contact rings for use with a DOUBLE contact turnsignal switch.
You may need a 75 steering wheel, which may have more clearance at column flange.

 

[FoMoCoBronCo]

Looking at last photo you posted:
The turnsignal switch has a SINGLE contact for horn circuit, and
The steering wheel has two contact rings for use with a DOUBLE contact turnsignal switch.
You may need a 75 steering wheel, which may have more clearance at column flange.

View attachment 916855

Great point… I did reuse my 71 steering wheel. I did find that spring and threw it in there. It didn’t help with the spacing, but at least my column is no longer missing a part.

I guess I’ll start looking for a 75 steering wheel. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Oldtimer]

The Master Parts Catalogs I have indicate that the column assembly changed for 76-77 model years . . .
However WH website indicates the spring (3520) is for 66-73 model years, so then the 75 would not have a spring, but a c-clip retainer like the 76-77.
You probably don't want the spring in there.


And you may need to add a relay to the horn circuit.
Early two contact design carried 12v thru two contacts.
Later one contact designed connected single contact to ground, which is not good with 12v circuit.

 

[FoMoCoBronCo]

The Master Parts Catalogs I have indicate that the column assembly changed for 76-77 model years . . .
However WH website indicates the spring (3520) is for 66-73 model years, so then the 75 would not have a spring, but a c-clip retainer like the 76-77.
You probably don't want the spring in there.

Hmmmm. Okay, well I definitely have the snap ring (c-clip) retainer. you can even see it in the picture. I’m not sure what purpose that spring would serve. On this column.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[m_m70]

It touching at the top, but the bottom gap is a little close for comfort as well.

This makes me think it's the tube flange (#3511 on the schematic) not seated right.

Or the steering wheel is wonky - try removing it and re-installing it back 180* and see if the bottom rubs instead of the top.

But the fact that the bottom of the wheel and the tube flange don't have an even gap says something wasn't put together right below the wheel.

 

[bronco italiano]

Not sure if a manual steering wheel is compatible with power.
-I think 1974 was first power steering years
-Spring for sure.
Please keep us updated as the issue resolves.

 

[LUBr LuvR]

Not sure if a manual steering wheel is compatible with power.
-I think 1974 was first power steering years
-Spring for sure.
Please keep us updated as the issue resolves.

Very late production 1972’s were the first with power steering. Double horn contacts thru 1973, 1974 was a one year only early-style wheel with a single horn contact. 1975-77 wheels had the wider spokes and single contact. (Same wheels regardless if manual or power steering).

 

[bronco italiano]

Closer look at the pics.
Something is bent or Caddy-wompus
-Bent possibly shaft or steering wheel spline area
-Caddy-wompus possible the turn signal collar, but it looks pretty even.
-The steering shaft looks to have unusual wear just below the splines and the inside part of the wheel seem rough
What are we missing?

 

[m_m70]

Something is bent or Caddy-wompus

agreed

Bent possibly shaft or steering wheel spline area

Yup. If he takes the steering wheel off and re-install it 180* and the gap on the top and bottom are the same, it would be either the shaft or the turn signal collar. If the gap changes from top rub to bottom rub it's in the wheel.

The steering shaft looks to have unusual wear just below the splines and the inside part of the wheel seem rough

Yes it does....It looks like someone or something has been grinding on it. The wheel has plenty of relief in it so quite the mystery there....

To the OP - Can you remove the gear indicator and see if your turn signal collar is in line with the gear shift collar. It looks like it is but would be nice to verify.

 

[FoMoCoBronCo]

This makes me think it's the tube flange (#3511 on the schematic) not seated right.

Or the steering wheel is wonky - try removing it and re-installing it back 180* and see if the bottom rubs instead of the top.

But the fact that the bottom of the wheel and the tube flange don't have an even gap says something wasn't put together right below the wheel.

When I flip the steering wheel 180°, the gaps flip, indicating that it’s the steering wheel that’s bent.

The column tube flange is definitely installed correctly. I did that on a bench, and that funky connection with the nuts seating into the slots on the column tube only go together one way.

I loosened all the column and shaft, mounting bolts, and nuts, and reassembled everything. The gap remains, and that’s with the steering wheel nut not tightened all the way down.

When the steering wheel nut is tightened, all the way down, the steering wheel binds up on the tube flange


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[FoMoCoBronCo]

Not sure if a manual steering wheel is compatible with power.
-I think 1974 was first power steering years
-Spring for sure.
Please keep us updated as the issue resolves.

That’s the question that I would like to get answered before I start ordering stuff. Will a manual steering from a ‘71 work with a power steering column & shaft from a ‘75?

I don’t think any spring goes in there. That spring is from the manual steering column setup.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[FoMoCoBronCo]

agreed


Yup. If he takes the steering wheel off and re-install it 180* and the gap on the top and bottom are the same, it would be either the shaft or the turn signal collar. If the gap changes from top rub to bottom rub it's in the wheel.


Yes it does....It looks like someone or something has been grinding on it. The wheel has plenty of relief in it so quite the mystery there....
View attachment 916973

To the OP - Can you remove the gear indicator and see if your turn signal collar is in line with the gear shift collar. It looks like it is but would be nice to verify.

When I flip the steering wheel, the gap changes from top to bottom. But even more troubling is that when I tighten the steering wheel nut all the way down, the steering wheel rubs against the tube flange.

I’m wondering if the excessive wear on the shaft and inside the steering wheel would cause the wheel to slide too far down the tapered end of the shaft to the point at which it starts to make contact with the tube flange?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[FoMoCoBronCo]

Closer look at the pics.
Something is bent or Caddy-wompus
-Bent possibly shaft or steering wheel spline area
-Caddy-wompus possible the turn signal collar, but it looks pretty even.
-The steering shaft looks to have unusual wear just below the splines and the inside part of the wheel seem rough
What are we missing?

So, I pulled my original manual steering shaft out of the parts pile and checked “taper depth.” it appears to be about 7/16 inch.

I checked the same measurement on the power steering shaft, and the “taper depth“ appears to be nearly 9/16.”

I’m wondering if that differential of 1/8 “to 1/16” could be attributable to excessive wear that is causing the steering wheel to sit further forward towards the tube flange?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk