Miss the Centech harness? Need A new Wire harness? Check this out!

[Bronco4x4]

Hello Nick. Do you offer the harness without the switches? I was planning on getting a Painless kit this way but now am considering yours. Any saving would be appreciated. Thanks, AL

 

[delconick]

Hello Nick. Do you offer the harness without the switches? I was planning on getting a Painless kit this way but now am considering yours. Any saving would be appreciated. Thanks, AL

The headlight and dimmer switches are specific to this harness and are not early Bronco. You would want those switches with the harness. I could set you up with a kit that is less the wiper and ignition switch.....

 

[trailerjack]

Looks like a great product. I honestly would pay a little extra to have it loomed in nicer loom than that plastic stuff....for some reason rats / mice love that plastic loom and never mess with other type loom. I guess worst case you can remove and re-loom with the good stuff.

If you say you can install that in 1/3 of the time of a painless, I would have a hard time believeing that. Painless is really as easy as it gets.

 

[delconick]

Looks like a great product. I honestly would pay a little extra to have it loomed in nicer loom than that plastic stuff....for some reason rats / mice love that plastic loom and never mess with other type loom. I guess worst case you can remove and re-loom with the good stuff.

If you say you can install that in 1/3 of the time of a painless, I would have a hard time believeing that. Painless is really as easy as it gets.

I have not seen the mice go after the plastic loom? There are pros and cons to the plastic / braided loom. If your running the wires in the fender well and not under the hood the plastic loom is better. If you are running the wires under the hood, I agree, The braided is better looking. The plastic is easier to remove-re install if needed. The braided will raise the price as its more labor intensive to install. We are debating what to do there......

For starters it takes a week and a half to read thier "book" that is the instruction sheet! We can call that 1/3 of the time savings LOL. You have to loom the painless harness, That alone is a massive time waster..... You have to : Figure out what to do with the big lump of additional circut wires that you do not need, Re layout the direction the wires go under the dash, figure out how your installing a dash speaker after you install that big fuse box, the sad firewall grommets you have to fight with. on and on.... I am not saying its not a decent product. I am just saying ours is an easier install.

I have installed them all. Our harness really is the fastest and easiest to install.

 

[trailerjack]

I have not seen the mice go after the plastic loom? There are pros and cons to the plastic / braided loom. If your running the wires in the fender well and not under the hood the plastic loom is better. If you are running the wires under the hood, I agree, The braided is better looking. The plastic is easier to remove-re install if needed. The braided will raise the price as its more labor intensive to install. We are debating what to do there......

For starters it takes a week and a half to read thier "book" that is the instruction sheet! We can call that 1/3 of the time savings LOL. You have to loom the painless harness, That alone is a massive time waster..... You have to : Figure out what to do with the big lump of additional circut wires that you do not need, Re layout the direction the wires go under the dash, figure out how your installing a dash speaker after you install that big fuse box, the sad firewall grommets you have to fight with. on and on.... I am not saying its not a decent product. I am just saying ours is an easier install.

I have installed them all. Our harness really is the fastest and easiest to install.

I'm not saying yours isn't easier, I'm just saying that painless, you open the manual on page one and follow the directions (I have no incentive to promote this product).

The timing couldnt have been better...I recently got a 74 that had been wired with the plastic loom and over the winter a mouse / or rat got in there and destroyed the engine harness. I re-did all the wiring and re loomed it and walked out today and something had gotten after the taillight harness....so I'm about to do that.

Not sure about up North, but I guess these texas mice/rats like these as I have had multiple friends tell me that there is something in the plastic loom that they like....

I'll def get a harness from you next time, especially if you offer it without the plastic loom!

 

[delconick]

I guess Norther Mice prefer air filters and seat foam LOL. That is crazy......

 

[Skiddy]

Putting this on my list

 

[delconick]

Putting this on my list

 

[Bronco4x4]

Nick, Speaking of mice >> Do you know if the harness wire casing is Soy based? I know that’s what was getting Tesla’s (not sure if fixed by them). Soy wire casing gets chewed up in alot of construction and farm equipment.

 

[delconick]

Nick, Speaking of mice >> Do you know if the harness wire casing is Soy based? I know that’s what was getting Tesla’s (not sure if fixed by them). Soy wire casing gets chewed up in alot of construction and farm equipment.

It is not. This was a question I had for the wire manufacturer before having them produce the wire.

 

[Rox Crusher]

I’m interested to hear first hand experiences from those who have used this new to market harness. How did install go? I’m completely incompetent on all things electrical wiring and would appreciate any insight, especially relative to a 77 with Explorer EFI from EFI Guy.

 

[K0DRD]

So this kit is headlight to taillight and everything in between? Anyone use this with the gm style distributor and one wire alternator?

 

[DirtDonk]

Probably not a lot of them out there yet for you to get a real sampling.
But luckily, neither of those systems that you’re asking about, have any trouble integrating into any harness.
A 1-wire alternator doesn’t even require being integrated into the main harness.
A GM style HEI ignition only needs power on one wire with the key in the ON position. This harness should surely have at least one, but more likely two of those.
If you have a tach wire for a tachometer, so much better. And this harness may very well have one of those. That’s a good question for delconick to answer.
But just the one keyed ON ignition power to the distributor takes care of all the sparkage duties.

Since the HEI distributor requires the full 12 V, and this harness does not have a power reducing resistor wire, it should attach directly to the wire coming from the ignition switch.
If there’s any question that the ignition switch will have trouble handling the extra current drawn by the more powerful ignition system, a relay can be used instead.

 

[delconick]

So this kit is headlight to taillight and everything in between? Anyone use this with the gm style distributor and one wire alternator?

Yes, Headlight to taillight. Includes the 1 wire alternator harness and the ready to run distributor wiring is explained in the instructions.

 

[5150bronco]

Thank you everyone for the feedback and opinions. This is making think, maybe I should ditch my centech since I am reinstalling it and make it simple and clean with this harness. I am having trouble decoding the damn wires and remembering some of the wires in the centech harness. Thanks.

If there are any updates please include.

 

[DirtDonk]

This is making think, maybe I should ditch my centech since I am reinstalling it and make it simple and clean with this harness.

Well, there's never a better time to install a new harness, as when the old one is completely out of the vehicle!

I am having trouble decoding the damn wires and remembering some of the wires in the centech harness.

What's to decode? Is the lettering all faded out? Or is it the multiple alternator and horn wiring options?
Or is it the wire colors? Look up GM colors, look up the Centech instructions, or get the new one.
Speaking of which... How does the new one handle the horn circuit Nick?
Is it only using the relay, or does it give you the option of not using the relay circuit, like the old Centech used to?
Looking at the instructions, it look like relay-only. Which is really the ONLY good way to do it in my opinion.

One option too 5150, might be that if your existing harness is not hacked up, and is still in serviceable shape, you can buy the new harness, then sell your old one.
You might only get a small part of what you paid for the new one, but it's better than tossing out perfectly good stuff!
And some EB-owner-on-a-budget will thank you for it.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

One additional observation/recommendation/objection to the new harness is how they recommend wiring if a modern PMGR style starter is used.
After a quick glance, the instructions appear to have you eliminate the fender mounted starter relay/solenoid, and putting all the associated wires down on the starter solenoid. Like on GM vehicles.
I'm more in favor of keeping the relay, and still using it for isolating some circuits, for making things easier to work on, and for continuing it's job of lessening the load on the Ford ignition switch.

No doubt that it can clean up that corner of the engine compartment, which is appealing at first glance, but I think it's a trade-off.
So my personal recommendation (at least for now) is to keep the fender mounted relay and wire the starter circuits from there.

Paul

 

[Shimmy]

any other feedback on this harness?

 

[DirtDonk]

Other than it’s a slick setup, I’m not sure I’ve heard anyone say that they’ve actually finished with an install yet.
Hoping for more feedback as well.

I should bring one to our June lunch to let the gang have a look. A hands-on touchy feely after-lunch tailgate tech session!
Get some more impressions at least.

 

[Bearhawk Builder]

Is this the harness sold by Wild Horses? They're calling it Classic Wiring Harness
North East shows this not in stock.