Ax15 adapter assembly spacer? Edit: New question

[joshua]

I’m assembling my kit and can’t find the spacer that Paul talks about when assembling the spud shaft at 2:35 in the video. I’m assuming he miss spoke. And is probably talking about the single lock ring at the end of the shaft. Well hoping. Cuz Ive looked and my kit didn’t come with anything that size for a spacer. Or any lock rings. I did save my old one.

And it does look like he has 2 (lock rings or spacer) on the table. To make matters worse on the new spud shaft there to possible locations for lock rings. See pictures. And when I have it assembled it looks correct like I have the perfect amount for one lock ring.

And the video doesn’t show the final assembly. Don’t get me wrong it’s been very helpful.

But the instructions with the kit leave something to be desired. Maybe suitable for a seasoned mechanic that’s been in many transmissions before and can see with minimal guidance how things should go would find it adequate.

But for guy that spends his days at work never doing anything mechanical they aren’t detailed enough. I like my exploded view so I know I have everything in its place. Not complaining as I’m sure if they had a 25 page step by step hard cover manual that it would increase price substantially. And that’s where hopefully one of you that has done this could lmk.

Thanks!

 

[chuckji]

I rebuilt my D20 (T shift) this past winter.
There was no ”spacer” on mine. Here is a photo.
Also, the AA cut section drawing I referenced didn’t show any spacer.
I think once all the parts are pressed together if there’s no gap between the gear and clip, you’re good to go. I’m sure more experienced people will chime in.

 

[joshua]

I rebuilt my D20 (T shift) this past winter.
There was no ”spacer” on mine. Here is a photo.
Also, the AA cut section drawing I referenced didn’t show any spacer.
I think once all the parts are pressed together if there’s no gap between the gear and clip, you’re good to go. I’m sure more experienced people will chime in.

I looked and looked for a diagram like that for ever. Thanks, that’s what I wanted to see!

 

[joshua]

Did I put this lip seal in backwards? Does it matter in this application? And is it the same seal that comes with the intermediate housing? I have another one of those.

First pic is how I installed it.

Second is how I think wild horses did it.

 

[Shimmy]

i would be nice to see an updated DIY that's well done from one of our vendors here.

 

[joshua]

i would be nice to see an updated DIY that's well done from one of our vendors here.

When looking at wild horses video, it looks like I put in backwards. But it would make much more sense the I did as the spring of the lip seal is pointing into the transfer case. I’m sure it will be fine. It’s done now.

 

[joshua]

Cross member is to wide to simply just hammer in I believe. I can’t even get it started. I think they may have messed up on the bends. See distorted slotted hole. Which they definitely saw because you can tell it was ground on. Just a little. But I can finish the grind job no biggie. That’s not why it won’t fit though. I can’t even get it started to even get it to that problem point.

Should grind down the sides to skinny it up? Or just the top edge so I can get it started. But believe it will take sledgehammer to get it in if I just grind a bevel on the top. Probably mangling it in the process. And definitely mangling the frame paint.

 

[Oldtimer]

How much to tight?
Can you flex the frame rails apart with a bottle jack & a 4x4?

 

[joshua]

How much to tight?
Can you flex the frame rails apart with a bottle jack & a 4x4?

I think that’s the plan. Or go buy a port a power. I’m thinking possibly ratchet straps to a tree and my truck

 

[joshua]

How much to tight?
Can you flex the frame rails apart with a bottle jack & a 4x4?

Maybe I could put straps to my lift?

 

[PDQ]

I had the same issue with the crossmember. (I'm actually glad to hear it wasn't just me). Not saying this was the best or correct answer, but I used a shop press with some 4x6 scrap on top and the floor on the bottom, to compress the outer flanges in a bit. The steel does have 'some" spring to it so I had to go a little beyond what felt comfortable for it to set, but that along with a lot of deadblow hammer got it into place. And as you mention, at that point I was ready to accept whatever consequences came to my POR15 frame, but luckily it didn't leave any noticeable marks, and that includes a lot of finesse to get it lined up with the mount holes.
Good luck and I'll be following to find out the better or "correct" way to get the 2"wide mount into a 1 3/4" space.....

 

[jamesroney]

1. MEASURE the frame rails with a gage. Determine conclusively whether the frame is 100% straight, or if the rail has a bow in it. Note that you cannot reference any drawing, specification, or comparative number to establish your frame width. You just need to know if YOUR frame is straight, relative to YOUR original build. You need to measure within about 1/32 inch. The best place to measure is just aft of the front cross member, and just forward of the rear cross member. Then slide your gage between the rails at the middle. If your frame is dead true...then you need to modify your cross member. If your frame is bowed, well, then it's OK to start moving things.

A high lift jack will spread your frame rails in about 2 minutes. But make sure to only spread the rails to bring your frame straight. The goal here is not to make the cross member "fit." The goal here is to make the frame straight.

Once the frame is straight, then you can use the frame as a tool to measure your cross member. Those cross members are jig welded, but as everyone knows...metal moves as welds cool. Depending on a lot of variables, it is easy to build them crooked. You will have to install the cross member a couple of times, and you might have to nibble off one corner to clear a weld. So be prepared to do it at least twice. The hardware that AA provides is junk, and if you can source a set of 8 "frame bolts" you will like it better. Also make sure you tap the powder out of the frame holes.

There is a 50/50 chance that the cross member will then need to be squeezed.

 

[ntsqd]

There is a good reason why the OEM cross-member is built the way that it is. Makes it very tolerant of small variations in frame width. The cross-member that Lars & I designed and built for his 4R70W conversion was based on the OEM design for this very reason. He'd previously lived with an NV4500 cross-member of the design shown here and didn't want to deal with that again.

 

[joshua]

1. MEASURE the frame rails with a gage. Determine conclusively whether the frame is 100% straight, or if the rail has a bow in it. Note that you cannot reference any drawing, specification, or comparative number to establish your frame width. You just need to know if YOUR frame is straight, relative to YOUR original build. You need to measure within about 1/32 inch. The best place to measure is just aft of the front cross member, and just forward of the rear cross member. Then slide your gage between the rails at the middle. If your frame is dead true...then you need to modify your cross member. If your frame is bowed, well, then it's OK to start moving things.

A high lift jack will spread your frame rails in about 2 minutes. But make sure to only spread the rails to bring your frame straight. The goal here is not to make the cross member "fit." The goal here is to make the frame straight.

Once the frame is straight, then you can use the frame as a tool to measure your cross member. Those cross members are jig welded, but as everyone knows...metal moves as welds cool. Depending on a lot of variables, it is easy to build them crooked. You will have to install the cross member a couple of times, and you might have to nibble off one corner to clear a weld. So be prepared to do it at least twice. The hardware that AA provides is junk, and if you can source a set of 8 "frame bolts" you will like it better. Also make sure you tap the powder out of the frame holes.

There is a 50/50 chance that the cross member will then need to be squeezed.

If you are talking about the cross member from AA it was bent on a press. I know they used to weld something together. And if you’re talking about the actual frame it also makes sense.

What gage are you talking about to measure the frame with? Sorry didn’t grow up doing this stuff and my career is far from mechanical.

 

[Oldtimer]

Modify the AA crossmember,
measure near frame crossmembers.
Gage could be two sticks clamped together.

Here is what I use to set toe on my side X side. Two sticks and piece of old tape measure, to give relative measurements between two points.

 

[jamesroney]

Sorry, I was thinking NV4500. I don’t do NV3550 / AX-15.

Any kind of stick, or rod can be a gage. Even if it’s a solid piece that you chop off so it barely fits.

I can see why @PDQ did what he did.

 

[joshua]

Sorry, I was thinking NV4500. I don’t do NV3550 / AX-15.

Any kind of stick, or rod can be a gage. Even if it’s a solid piece that you chop off so it barely fits.

I can see why @PDQ did what he did.

That’s what I figured. I should have said that lol. But I thought that might be to low tech

 

[cldonley]

That’s what I figured. I should have said that lol. But I thought that might be to low tech

Low tech is a way of life. Embrace it!

 

[joshua]

Low tech is a way of life. Embrace it!

100 percent!!!!

 

[jamesroney]

That’s what I figured. I should have said that lol. But I thought that might be to low tech

Once you determine that your frame is straight..then I recommend trying some 3/8 all-thread and a couple of nuts to compress the cross member.

A stick of all thread should be good for a couple thousand pounds of clamping before it yields. 3-4 of those should be enough to square up that AA cross-member. That's what I would try.

(...that not strictly true, I wouldn't actually try that myself. But I have a 50 ton hydraulic press in my garage. So I would just straighten it.)