Plug-and-Play Upgrade for Autolite Distributor D1UF-12127-AA

[jacrz]

I'd like to upgrade my Autolite distributor, which appears to be original (I have a 1974/302 with Holley Sniper 1) and is running with a Pertronix Flame-Thrower coil and Pertronix Ignitor 1281 electronic conversion, all installed by the previous owner.

I'm currently replacing the timing chain, timing cover and water pump, and have my oil pan off, so I'm already in the guts of the engine and it seems like the right time to do it, with good access.

I'd prefer for now to replace with something that's a nice upgrade, but pretty 'plug and play' rather than doing the full-scale upgrade to something like the Holley HyperSpark system so I don't have to buy and install a new ignition box and coil. I'll eventually upgrade all of that once I convert to a 4-barrel manifold and latest-version Holley EFI system.

Would something like this Pertronix below be a nice upgrade that I could essentially just install, connect to my existing coil, and move on? (I'm not bound at all to Pertronix though, and open to other better options!)

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-d136700

I'm just learning about ignition systems, so I welcome any corrections to any of this.

Thanks!
Jason

 

[EPB72]

both distributors in your summit link are for Chevy engines .. there are so many threads and many more opinions on what an upgrade will be ,, so does the sniper provide timing control ? Something to consider.. plug and play distributors most need a timing curve adjustment , most are conservative and all in on mechanical is at too high of RPM , but can’t speak of the Petronius distributors ,,

 

[ntsqd]

Does your EFI system have timing control? If so, I'd look at using a TFI with a remote module.

If not then I'd use a Dura-Spark II distributor with an HEI Dynomod module from Davis Unified.

 

[nvrstuk]

Spark control is important. Petronix is good, DUI (Davis Unified) is high quality but if either of those have spark control you're good. DuraSpark is excellent but ONLY use Motorcraft modules and they are getting hard to find since they came out about 50 yrs back. No Chinesium...

 

[bronco italiano]

Does your EFI system have timing control? If so, I'd look at using a TFI with a remote module.

If not then I'd use a Dura-Spark II distributor with an HEI Dynomod module from Davis Unified.

I don't think DUI has the duraspark modules anymore, just the TFI module.
I do have a couple motorcraft modules and the duraspark II dynamod module DUI used, but it uses a Dodge pigtail

 

[ntsqd]

I wouldn't use a Dura-Spark Module of any sort. I would use their HEI module with the Dura-Spark distributor. It will need a heat-sink mounting bracket.

I ran a version of this in my '65 Valiant (used the Mopar 225's electronic distributor instead of a D-S II distributor) and it was easily the best ignition system that I ever tried on that car.

 

[bronco italiano]

I didn't see a duraspark module on the site, just the TFI. Can you modify the GM modules they offer like the 4-pin?
https://performancedistributors.com/product-category/performance-accessories/modules/

 

[ntsqd]

That is what I've been saying all along, use one of the HEI modules. The most basic would be to use a 4 pin module for no timing control.

This is the module that I'd start with if there is going to be timing control with a D-S II distributor: https://performancedistributors.com/product/8-pin-gm-dyna-module-computer-controlled-distributor/ I used this module on the Valiant and it had no timing control. Works fine it you don't connect the timing control pin to anything.

 

[gr8scott]

I didn't see a duraspark module on the site, just the TFI. Can you modify the GM modules they offer like the 4-pin?

Yup, runs really well.

 

[DirtDonk]

Is there a specific reason that the battery is going to pin 87 on this one, instead of pin 30 like the industry standard is?
I know there are different ways of wiring up relays, but is this one for a specific reason, or just random?

 

[ntsqd]

Wiring diagram likely put together by someone not aware of the convention.

If there's something to not like about using an HEI module it is that the trigger signal connections are not sealed. What I did on the Valiant was to cover the wire terminals with adhesive lined heat-shrink and fill them full of dielectric grease.

I'd run one of the E-Core coils with such a system. I used a GM version because I had the whole GM wiring harness for it and the Module, but the Ford version is just as good of a choice.

 

[DirtDonk]

I’ve always liked the idea of putting the GM four pin module inside a Ford aluminum Duraspark housing. Get the best of both worlds.
The GM modules are plentiful, and if you spend the coin, very reliable. Not sure if you can still get good reliable Dura Spark modules, unless you find NOS.
Is there a go-to brand of FORD module?

I think it was mentioned that you can use a TFI module though. Is that true? If so, I don’t remember seeing wiring diagrams for that.
A remote TFI module would be pretty cool.

 

[ntsqd]

The HEI does need a good heat-sink and I'm not sure if the die-cast D-S II module housing is enough of one or not. The thermal paste under it is an absolute necessity. I cooked one trying to use anti-seize.

My sure-fire method for obtaining a good D-S II module involves a junkyard. I pull the nastiest looking module that I can find. But, those are getting harder and harder to find.

I recall @Broncobowsher had a post some years ago about how to use a TFI system stand-alone.