Hutchinson Rock Monster Beadlocks

[RhodyBennett]

Hello All,

I am considering getting a set of Hutchinson Rock Monster Beadlocks for my 1969 Bronco. I am currently running 37s with Method rims which have been good. I like the look of the Hutchinsons. Anyone using them?

 

[Shimmy]

no experience here, but i see a lot of jeep guys running them.

 

[jamesroney]

Yes, I have mine. DOT legal beadlock. Lucky that no one knows what they cost.

 

[Yeller]

I do

They are heavy, and a pain to mount and dismount but they do drive nice.

 

[RhodyBennett]

no experience here, but i see a lot of jeep guys running them.

Thanks. They seem to be really popular amongst the Jeep guys.

 

[RhodyBennett]

Yes, I have mine. DOT legal beadlock. Lucky that no one knows what they cost.

Thanks! Great looking rig. I definitely like the DOT component, more piece of mind on the freeways/highways. I don't like trailering my rig and prefer to drive to rock crawl. I live in Agoura Hills and drive to Big Bear for the trails, also Calico and Tierra Del Sol. I did the original mounts for my wheels on the Method rims. There are good videos on line for installing the Hutchinson's, particularly from Northridge 4x4. Did you install the rims yourself or did you have a shop?

 

[jamesroney]

Thanks! Great looking rig. I definitely like the DOT component, more piece of mind on the freeways/highways. I don't like trailering my rig and prefer to drive to rock crawl. I live in Agoura Hills and drive to Big Bear for the trails, also Calico and Tierra Del Sol. I did the original mounts for my wheels on the Method rims. There are good videos on line for installing the Hutchinson's, particularly from Northridge 4x4. Did you install the rims yourself or did you have a shop?

Hi, and nice to meet you.

If you look at some of my old posts...you will see that I don't actually let anyone touch my Bronco. It's not that I don't trust people, its just that my Bronco is a fun toy for me, and I've never really learned anything by paying someone to do work that I can do.

I require DOT in the unlikely but still possible liability scenario. Broncos do get stolen, and while we all think we are skilled drivers...at least half of us are below average. The last thing I want is to be defending litigation where I COULD have used DOT approved wheels, but didn't.

I have found that trailering to the trail head is useful in case somebody has an issue. Lately, it hasn't been me that I tow home. But I've been on both sides of the winch line, and I'm grateful when someone has a trailer. The fact that I can tow my flatbed with my 06 megaCab Cummins and get 21mpg at 70 mph with the AC on, and the DVD player running is a bit of a bonus. But I do respect you Bronco Road Warriors in the 104 degree open air.

Hutchinson assembly is actually trivial, and as long as you can swing a wrench, they are actually designed to be changed in the field. Don't be tempted to use impact tools. Be patient, and don't skimp on the sealing o-ring. They are perfectly re-usable, but if they are damaged, there's no reason not to replace them.

Please update your Avatar to include your location, and update your sig line to put in the details on your Bronco.

I do have to wonder what exactly an "Agoura" might be. But anything past Gilroy is basically SoCal to me...

 

[RhodyBennett]

Hi, and nice to meet you.

If you look at some of my old posts...you will see that I don't actually let anyone touch my Bronco. It's not that I don't trust people, its just that my Bronco is a fun toy for me, and I've never really learned anything by paying someone to do work that I can do.

I require DOT in the unlikely but still possible liability scenario. Broncos do get stolen, and while we all think we are skilled drivers...at least half of us are below average. The last thing I want is to be defending litigation where I COULD have used DOT approved wheels, but didn't.

I have found that trailering to the trail head is useful in case somebody has an issue. Lately, it hasn't been me that I tow home. But I've been on both sides of the winch line, and I'm grateful when someone has a trailer. The fact that I can tow my flatbed with my 06 megaCab Cummins and get 21mpg at 70 mph with the AC on, and the DVD player running is a bit of a bonus. But I do respect you Bronco Road Warriors in the 104 degree open air.

Hutchinson assembly is actually trivial, and as long as you can swing a wrench, they are actually designed to be changed in the field. Don't be tempted to use impact tools. Be patient, and don't skimp on the sealing o-ring. They are perfectly re-usable, but if they are damaged, there's no reason not to replace them.

Please update your Avatar to include your location, and update your sig line to put in the details on your Bronco.

I do have to wonder what exactly an "Agoura" might be. But anything past Gilroy is basically SoCal to me...

I am also stumped what an "Aguora" is, lol. It is a great community to live in though. I also enjoy working on my Bronco. Fortunately I belong to a group of vintage Bronco owners with So Cal Broncos and many of the members have a wealth of knowledge beyond me and I have relied upon them for many of my projects on the Bronco. I definitely like the idea of doing it myself as I did with my Methods which have been great for the last 10 years. I need to step up regarding the DOT issue and I completely agree with your comments on the liability issues, especially since I am not trailering. I happen to live in an HOA that frowns on large trailers and I don't have the room on my property anyway for a trailer. Below are the details of my Bronco that I have also posted on my sig line. For my avatar I put a picture of my Bronco when I did Holcomb Creek in Big Bear a couple of years back. Cheers, Dan

1969 Bronco
302 pulled from a 1998 Ford Explorer
C-4 transmission
Front axle: Currie Rock-jock extreme 60
Rear axle: True high 9 high pinion trussed 35 spline
4.56 gears
Front: Fox 2.5 coil-over, factory race series, remote reservoir, DSC 14" travel with springs
Rear: Wild Horses 4# springs with Fox coil-over shocks
Double Cardan CV drive shafts with 1350 U-joints
Front and rear ARB lockers
Howe Performance steering box with separate reservoir
Hydroboost brake system
ram steering assist
2 speed atlas transfer case
BF Goodrich KO2 37.12.5 tires on Method Beadlocks
Custom 17 gal and 25 gal fuel tanks

 

[jamesroney]

I am also stumped what an "Aguora" is, lol. It is a great community to live in though. I also enjoy working on my Bronco. Fortunately I belong to a group of vintage Bronco owners with So Cal Broncos and many of the members have a wealth of knowledge beyond me and I have relied upon them for many of my projects on the Bronco. I definitely like the idea of doing it myself as I did with my Methods which have been great for the last 10 years. I need to step up regarding the DOT issue and I completely agree with your comments on the liability issues, especially since I am not trailering. I happen to live in an HOA that frowns on large trailers and I don't have the room on my property anyway for a trailer. Below are the details of my Bronco that I have also posted on my sig line. For my avatar I put a picture of my Bronco when I did Holcomb Creek in Big Bear a couple of years back. Cheers, Dan

1969 Bronco
302 pulled from a 1998 Ford Explorer
C-4 transmission
Front axle: Currie Rock-jock extreme 60
Rear axle: True high 9 high pinion trussed 35 spline
4.56 gears
Front: Fox 2.5 coil-over, factory race series, remote reservoir, DSC 14" travel with springs
Rear: Wild Horses 4# springs with Fox coil-over shocks
Double Cardan CV drive shafts with 1350 U-joints
Front and rear ARB lockers
Howe Performance steering box with separate reservoir
Hydroboost brake system
ram steering assist
2 speed atlas transfer case
BF Goodrich KO2 37.12.5 tires on Method Beadlocks
Custom 17 gal and 25 gal fuel tanks

So 5 lug? or 8?

...because once you buy the Hutchinson's you are committed.

If I could do it all again, I'd START with 8x6.5 and build from there. As it is, I started 5x5.5, and then bought the Pro-Rock 60's. Then I added long arms, NV4500, Atlas, and was looking at doing a 4 link rear. Which made me think I should stretch it. Which made me realize I was inventing an LJ. So I built an LJ. but it was an auto. So I bought a 6 speed. Now I have a Rubihara. I need to get off this computer and on the trail.

 

[Yeller]

I too have one of those projects I should have just done 8x6-1/2 instead of 5x5-1/2...........

now not to muddy too deep. Don't discount Method "Bead Grip" wheels, I run with a few folks that have them and regularly run 8psi without issue. From what I've witnessed they do a great job of retaining the bead.

 

[jamesroney]

I too have one of those projects I should have just done 8x6-1/2 instead of 5x5-1/2...........

now not to muddy too deep. Don't discount Method "Bead Grip" wheels, I run with a few folks that have them and regularly run 8psi without issue. From what I've witnessed they do a great job of retaining the bead.

Then you realize that you want full float rear. But 5 lug full float is not cheap. But hey...you can always unlock the hubs and flat tow. Then the hubs blow up. Then Warn makes a custom 35 spline hub with a special set screw to keep them from unscrewing. Then you destroy those and install drive flanges. Then you realize you could have bought a dozen GM 14 bolts for the price of 1 full float 5 lug D60...

But yeah. 8 psi is a good number. or 5 psi, or 40 psi. When you get too low, you start bruising/ slicing sidewalls.

Bigger issue is building a spare tire carrier that can hold up. And the cost of vertebrae fusion surgery from lifting them on to the mount.

 

[Yeller]

Then you realize that you want full float rear. But 5 lug full float is not cheap. But hey...you can always unlock the hubs and flat tow. Then the hubs blow up. Then Warn makes a custom 35 spline hub with a special set screw to keep them from unscrewing. Then you destroy those and install drive flanges. Then you realize you could have bought a dozen GM 14 bolts for the price of 1 full float 5 lug D60...

But yeah. 8 psi is a good number. or 5 psi, or 40 psi. When you get too low, you start bruising/ slicing sidewalls.

Bigger issue is building a spare tire carrier that can hold up. And the cost of vertebrae fusion surgery from lifting them on to the mount.

exactly on the rear... reminds me its time to check my Set20's and probably replace them, seems to be an annual event, the cages break....

I run 12-15psi, unless in sand, then its 4psi. for the most part I do not feel the need to run beadlocks, I do on the bronco, but I run the same PSI on 2 other vehicles without beadlocks and have no issues or concerns, but do not make dedicated sand trips with them. Now my buggy on the other hand, 6psi is the norm, 40" tire and 4000 pound vehicle doing dumb stuff and beadlocks are a must.

That is why I do not carry a full size spare, the weight. I carry a stock size tire and wheel, less weight, easier on the back, easier on the vehicle and way better for vehicle performance. Want to get denied on a climb? carry a 180 pound spare with a 300 pound bumper hanging on the back..... remove that and its amazing how much better it works off road and drives on road. I've run the donut tire for an entire week in Utah wheeling everyday and doing lots of road miles. Looks funny but drives fine. If you have a twin stick and only use the front when needed, it doesn't load up and cause other issues. This 65 pound tire and wheel works just fine. Yes it is on the roof, but when your roof is only 5'11" high, it is not that high, it fits in a normal 7' garage door with several inches to spare. On this particular truck, the spare sits at home in the garage unless we are somewhere where we are hours from potential help. I've only needed it once in the last 30 years, but it was worth having and saved a week long trip.

33's are my limit for a full size spare, after that I want a lightweight alternative. The exception to that is my motor home, I carry an 11r22.5 spare tire and wheel on a hand winch under the truck, if it saves me a roadside call it is worth having under there.

PS: yes that GM wheel has the center bored out to 4.95” so it will fit any 8x6.5 bolt pattern hub, not just the smaller GM hub pilot.

 

[jamesroney]

PS: yes that GM wheel has the center bored out to 4.95” so it will fit any 8x6.5 bolt pattern hub, not just the smaller GM hub pilot.

Looks like the Hutchinson K2500 Border Patrol bead-lock was invented just for you...getting hard to find.

 

[ntsqd]

@ OP, BBBB?

I know that I've posted pics of it before, y'all just need to build your spare carriers slightly differently and then you won't have to lift that monster spare up onto the carrier. The Wagon project is slated to get the 2nd Gen version that uses a worm & sector gear rather than a boat tongue winch to lift the tire.

Going down the FF thought process I listened to what @nvrstuk was telling us and never even considered a FF 9" Some research indicated that a bare D60 housing doesn't weigh much more than an 8.8 with it brakes in place. Well, gee, which would I rather have? The 14bff OTOH, even w/o those obnoxiously heavy drum brakes does weigh a bit more than the 8.8 Problem is that, like James pointed out, even with a FF D60 you still can't economically get to a 5x5.5 FF. It can be done with a 14bff for something close to a reasonable cost, but adding those spindles to a D60 isn't economical.

 

[RhodyBennett]

I too have one of those projects I should have just done 8x6-1/2 instead of 5x5-1/2...........

now not to muddy too deep. Don't discount Method "Bead Grip" wheels, I run with a few folks that have them and regularly run 8psi without issue. From what I've witnessed they do a great job of retaining the bead.

Yes, I have been happy with the Methods and have run as low as 8psi without issue. With the Hutchinsons I like the technology of sealing both beads in place and the more stringent adherence to DOT considerations.

 

[RhodyBennett]

So 5 lug? or 8?

...because once you buy the Hutchinson's you are committed.

If I could do it all again, I'd START with 8x6.5 and build from there. As it is, I started 5x5.5, and then bought the Pro-Rock 60's. Then I added long arms, NV4500, Atlas, and was looking at doing a 4 link rear. Which made me think I should stretch it. Which made me realize I was inventing an LJ. So I built an LJ. but it was an auto. So I bought a 6 speed. Now I have a Rubihara. I need to get off this computer and on the trail.

I currently have 5 lug, 5/8", so that will need to be changed.

 

[jamesroney]

@ OP, BBBB?

I know that I've posted pics of it before, y'all just need to build your spare carriers slightly differently and then you won't have to lift that monster spare up onto the carrier. The Wagon project is slated to get the 2nd Gen version that uses a worm & sector gear rather than a boat tongue winch to lift the tire.

Going down the FF thought process I listened to what @nvrstuk was telling us and never even considered a FF 9" Some research indicated that a bare D60 housing doesn't weigh much more than an 8.8 with it brakes in place. Well, gee, which would I rather have? The 14bff OTOH, even w/o those obnoxiously heavy drum brakes does weigh a bit more than the 8.8 Problem is that, like James pointed out, even with a FF D60 you still can't economically get to a 5x5.5 FF. It can be done with a 14bff for something close to a reasonable cost, but adding those spindles to a D60 isn't economical.

Which spindle are we talking about? I took a set of Dana 61 tubes and stuffed them into a HP60 housing and then ran D60 SRW front hubs on the rear.

The 5 lug D60 hubs from Solid Axle are the same bearings as 8 lug SRW GM front 60, so they should work. You still need a rotor and a caliper. Parking brake is the biggest headache.

But it's all just silly. Buy a $200 GM 14 bolt, and weld on the caliper mounts. Then add spot calipers, or a driveshaft brake. Done.

 

[nvrstuk]

RS (RuffStuff) makes a spindle that you can weld into the tube and BOOM... you've got cheap 14 bolt ends on whatever housing you want (with appropriate ID).

That's what I used on my fabbed 9" housing to make a FF "914" out of it. 9" with 14bolt outers. Used RCV FF parts. Cost wasn't too bad 12+ yrs back. Probably double that now- or more so it would be 4X the cost of any upgraded 14 bolt. I learned the hard way...

Weld on a caliper hanger to loose 60# for each corner (ditch the drums and ANY stock disc stuff off a one ton) and you have a lightwt housing like a couple guys mentioned above. Go 14 but ditch all the stock brake stuff

 

[Yeller]

Been digging in a bit, buy the later 14 with disc brakes, the hubs can be machined for 5x5.5 and the brakes can be used. Hard part is getting wheel studs, they need to be screw in studs. It’s some kind of tricky machining but doable. Get disc brakes and a great parking brake. Or just go 8 lug and be done lol. This combination just happens to not fit the current application I’m looking at.

 

[ntsqd]

Which spindle are we talking about? I took a set of Dana 61 tubes and stuffed them into a HP60 housing and then ran D60 SRW front hubs on the rear.

The 5 lug D60 hubs from Solid Axle are the same bearings as 8 lug SRW GM front 60, so they should work. You still need a rotor and a caliper. Parking brake is the biggest headache.

But it's all just silly. Buy a $200 GM 14 bolt, and weld on the caliper mounts. Then add spot calipers, or a driveshaft brake. Done.

Yes and no. Can run D60 front hubs, but then you're locked into locking hubs or drive slugs. The ONLY locking hubs that I'd ever consider for towing type use would be Aisins, and then only on something the size of an early-mid 80's Yota pick-up. I saw first hand what happens when a Warn in that use lets go (Warn FF conversion kit). I don't need that kind of carnage potential. The one that I saw let go was from driving mildly on the street trying to make a left turn against on-coming traffic.
So, double spined axles are a good to great idea, but a FF bolt-in drive axle, i.e. OEM FF flanged rear axles, are a better idea. To get that you need a 5x5.5 rear hub that no one makes for a D60.
Unless you go Unit Bearing...... There I don't like the single vendor only wear parts. Or that's what I've seen thus far anyway. In spite of where those are used successfully I wouldn't use them on a hard core crawler, but for a family truckster that may, possibly, maybe if I can talk SWMBO into it, tow a small Airstream or Barth travel trailer at the most. For that use I believe they would be OK.

Look at Expedition RDB's for rear discs with a drum p-brake. They're a scaled up Explorer system. My FSB link shows how I adapted them to a D60 rear hub. Used std press-in 9/16" studs. As I recall they're the same stud used on the GM 3/4t 8 lug front axles, but it's been a minute since I sorted all of that out.