Weather stripping

[Flyfisen]

Back from paint and I was adding all new weather stripping back on the rig. Now my problem is the doors don’t want to close.
Painter had doors off to paint (beautiful Hot Ginger), and must have reinstalled with zero weather stripping as it was all taken off.
So, will the new stuff relax so I can close the doors all the way, or do I have to have the doors adjusted now that the new stuff is on. Suggestions
Passenger door if slammed shuts tightly, drivers door another issue. I was able to get it closed all the way once but I really had to slam it numerous times.

 

[Speedrdr]

Is it a full cab or a half cab? On my 1st EB I had closure issues when it was a half cab and had to trim the weather stripping on the latch side to reasonably close and latch. When I went to full cab, the issue went away. Still don’t know why.
Not sure if this helps, but it’s an option.
Randy

 

[Slowleak]

Sometimes silicone lube on the seal will help them close easier until they get broken in. Heat also helps. If you are tired of slamming the doors, you can back off the door latch a little so they close easier, then readjust over time as the seals compress.

 

[Flyfisen]

Slowleak great idea I was not aware of an adjustment at the latch. Any way you can walk me thru it. Would be helpful

 

[Slowleak]

Slowleak great idea I was not aware of an adjustment at the latch. Any way you can walk me thru it. Would be helpful

The latch post is adjustable. Mark around it first with a pen of some sort so you know where it was. Then slightly loosen the two screws holding it to the body. Be careful not to move the post up or down. Just move it slightly outward and tighten the screws back up. Try the door and readjust if necessary. Good luck...

 

[Jfryjfry]

The new weatherstripping makes doors not shut all the way. It’s been discussed. There are some ( or just one) manufacturer who makes one that seems to work well. Mine didn’t. I ended up cutting a little bit out of the length of mine so it wasn’t as thick.

 

[jmangi62]

I installed all new weatherstripping from NEClassicbroncos, the doors close ok, they are tight but close good. Can't remember the name of the guy, delconick maybe? I would check with him and see if he has any sets left, good guy and great products.

 

[EPB72]

If the door gaps where good before weather stripping ,and now if you adjust latch stricker the rear of door will stick out .

the old METRO brand seals where the ones to get not availble anymore...


Google search bronco door WS and you will find this is a common problem...GOOD LUCK.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-1977-...272815055534?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10 just found this

 

[Slowleak]

If the door gaps where good before weather stripping ,and now if you adjust latch stricker the rear of door will stick out .

the old METRO brand seals where the ones to get not availble anymore...


Google search bronco door WS and you will find this is a common problem...GOOD LUCK.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-1977-...272815055534?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10 just found this

The objective of moving the post is to allow the door to close easier until the seals have a chance to soften and break in. It just temporary....

I don’t know if anyone has tried the Metro seals recently. Since they retooled a few years ago, the new seals are nothing like the old ones. Profiles and density were completely different. I bought some, spoke with Metros production manager several times about issues, and to my knowledge they never resolved the problems. They seemed to have little interest in it but made many promises.

If I was buying seals now, I would go with Dennis Carpenter or Northeast Classic Ford (Delconick).

Older threads about Metro...
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=270957
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2890642

 

[andyp]

I have gone through this a number of different ways and have come to the conclusion it is the lower door seal that is the main culprit. Especially near the door hinge side. Without getting to long winded, the stock style rubber causes the door to spring back before the second part of the latch can hold the door closed fully. Cutting out the rubber along the door sill and replacing it with double tube type soft seal works very well. The flat side has peel and stick adhesive on it. It doesn't look stock but it sure beats slamming the doors.

 

[Flyfisen]

Got mine from TBP, and resealed the entire beast. Not looking to peel anything off I’m going to try moving posts temporarily and once rubber settles in return to proper position. So far the silicon spray has helped. Now I have to wait for the blaster to loosen up the lower Phillips head as it ain’t budging.

 

[jckkys]

I'm aware this is an old thread. I'm also aware no good answers have been offered. Can it be that the makers of EB weather strips are still unable to design a product that does the job? Newer vehicles have easily closed doors with weather stripping that works. So it can be done. When will this tech flow into the after market? I will also point out that this problem is almost universal in EB restorations. A real solution would be an easy sell.

 

[andyp]

Still nothing good that I have seen.

 

[serial car restorer]

This is not unique to EBs. I've restored numerous cars since the early 90s, many makes, lots of different rubber suppliers. And in virtually every case, closing the doors is a problem. Go to any car forum and search door weatherstrip and you'll see the complaints. I'm not sure why this is so, maybe the manufacturers are more afraid of complaints about leaking than they are about door closing.

 

[DirtDonk]

They are quite literally “just not making them like they used to” as far as the material itself seems to be concerned.
They may get the shapes right, the length right and the thickness right. But if you take an old original, (even brand new in the box) and compare them to a new one, by squeezing between your fingers, you can tell that the originals were much softer than the modern ones.
Almost like they were filled with air bubbles instead of solid material.
They may even be trying to make them last longer, but that’s doubtful. I don’t think they do last any longer than the originals. In fact from my limited experience, the new ones seem to split and deteriorate much quicker than the old ones.

And you shouldn’t adjust your doors around the seals. You adjust the doors by the gaps and the panels. Once you get those dialed in, you should be able to install the weatherstrip seal and have it work. Instead, they just don’t squeeze down into the gaps.
As was asked, sometimes they do settle in with heat and leaving the doors closed for a while.
But that’s only sometimes the ultimate fix.

 

[DirtDonk]

And the forum stories are full of inconsistencies within one brand or another. You might get three that fit perfectly, tell everybody about it, and then everybody buys them, and then find out that only about three out of 10 fit well. Most of the others have the same issue. Even within the same brand. Imported or domestic.
I’d like to try the Steele Rubber sometime, but they seem to have the same consistency problems as others. Maybe to a lesser extent?
Or maybe not…