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Nice use of available real estate. But you do realize, the holes are not really “useless“ unless you are lucky to never have to re-adjust or remove the steering column. But maybe that’s what you meant.
Shouldn’t be too difficult though , to remove the switches, should you ever need to access the two column clamp bolts.
That is the Classic Consoles HumpHugger from CJP (but other vendors sell as well) I was very impressed with the quality. It’s a nice kit if you don’t need a locking center console. Uses the factory seat belt bolts to attach to the floor. The front of the console is supposed to ride the front of the transmission tunnel hump but I couldn’t get the geometry to work and didn’t want it up that far anyway, so I fashioned some legs for the front. I also had to move the seats out just a smidge because I wanted the seats to clear the cup holders when they are all the way forward (like when my kids are climbing in and out of the back).
I’m moving on to the back, now that the front is just about done!
Upgraded the roll cage hardware to 7/16” grade 8 and added a bolt to each foot. The PO only had two 3/8” bolts per foot.
Laying the mat down, I found the easiest method to locate the bolt holes was to use a dowel centering pin in each hole which left an indent in the back of the mat, then poked through to the front with a pick and cut an x which allowed me to push the bolt through and trim off the excess with a razor blade.
I haven’t bolted the cage down yet but the PO had 1/8 x 1-1/2” steel fender washers which seems inadequate to me. I was thinking about replacing with 3/16” thick, 6x6 steel plates, though there is not much room on the driver side due to the two tanks. I also want to avoid sizing the plates same/similar to the feet so it doesn’t create a stress line in the body. The feet are 4x5”. Open to suggestions!
Needs a trim plate but the head unit is all wired in. I really didn’t want to cut into the dash any more than the PO did. This Sony unit with wireless CarPlay fits single din pretty good.