cleanest and most reliable alternator and ignition set up

[Jluc22]

i am in the process of a complete frame off restoration of a 77. What is the most reliable and cleanest (as far as wiring) alternator and ignition set up to go back with. I am putting the stock 302 back in it.

 

[phred]

The ford 4g one wire alternator and a pertronics conversion in a stock distributor is about as clean as it gets. Unless you go the HEI route The HEI distributors eliminate the external coil but they are big and require a body lift or modifications to the hood.

 

[Broncobowsher]

If you do the full Explorer swap, the 4G is part of that package.
If just doing V-belt, 90A small case 3G is really nice. Little less belt drag than the go to 130A, so better chance of not squealing the belt. '92 Aerostar 3.0 and just swap your V-belt pulley on. The adjuster bolt needs to be metric. All internally regulated. Swaitched ignition power to wake it up and a feed to the battery. One more "sense" wire for the regulator to look at actual battery voltage. Done.

All the affordable HEI GM based conversion alternators are junk. Well known for failing. Only good one is a Davis DUI, the real one, not a knock off. Personally I am not a fan of them.
My latest go to is keep the points, delete the condenser, use an early 90's Ford remote TFI module from a truck with matching E-core coil. Simple points trigger, reliable remote TFI, reliable big spark E-core coil
https://www.49ccscoot.com/manuals/FORD TFI electronic ignition.pdf
Found it while looking up hot motorcycle ignition systems. My boat loves it.

 

[ba123]

Cleanest would be a true one wire.

Mine literally only has the wire from the battery to the alt and a marine terminal fuse at the battery.

Does not get any cleaner.

I used Powermaster.

This one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWM-477871

Not right for you but if you want to look. It's a modified 4g alt. The connector socket is epoxied as nothing goes there.

Pretty.

Happy to snap a pic if you don't see a good one on my thread.

 

[ba123]

I’m out there now so here’s a pic.

Ground is from the bracket (that you need to make sure is clean with no paint on either side).

 

[chuddy]

I really like the Mallory Unilite distributors.

 

[ba123]

What’s a distributor?

(j/k)

 

[SteveL]

I've been running the DUI distributors for years with no problems.

 

[Broncobowsher]

I really like the Mallory Unilite distributors.

Not exactly reliable. Those modules are well known for going out. And are not stocked in parts stores. I got stranded in my own driveway once when a Unilite module died. Pretty low on my list of distributors to own. I will give them well made and tunable. But not reliable. Just when you think it is a good one, that is when it will leave you stranded.

 

[chuddy]

Not exactly reliable. Those modules are well known for going out. And are not stocked in parts stores. I got stranded in my own driveway once when a Unilite module died. Pretty low on my list of distributors to own. I will give them well made and tunable. But not reliable. Just when you think it is a good one, that is when it will leave you stranded.

Interesting, I have not had that experience yet.

 

[DirtDonk]

How is yours set up chuddy?
Running a stock coil, or otherwise?
Running the stock resistor wire to the distributor and coil, or full power from the key?
There were various stories of module reliability, based on what it was connected to.

There was also a time when they all seemed to fail, but that was probably a production quality issue, rather than an Installation issue.

How long has yours been installed?

 

[ared77]

^^^Thanks

Broncobowsher!​

I love (new to me) info like this.

 

[gnpenning]

Interesting, I have not had that experience yet.

I'm with you on this. I still own 2 vehicles I put Unilites in, 1 in the early 80s and another in the early 90s. Those I still have and both are going strong. I don't know how many of the other's I've done are still going.

I'm fairness, manufacturing then is much different than today.

 

[ntsqd]

Interesting, I have not had that experience yet.

All it takes is one little voltage surge and the light emitter pops. Then it is dead dead, not just slightly dead. BT, DT.

The TFI triggered by a set of points is interesting, but being mechanical it does have a wear issue. Not like it would with a pure points system, but it's still there.
I rate the most reliable "out of the box" system to be an all original D-S II system. Like with every other brand of module (GM, Mopar) the new modules from typical auto parts stores are junk.
Were I going to build an ignition system I'd drive a Davis HEI module with a D-S II distributor. The D-S II's signal is nice and strong and the HEI modules make the engine run very smooth - smoother than anything else that I've tried including the aftermarket stuff. Crucial to that module being reliable is to use the thermal grease that those modules absolutely require be between them and their heat-sink. There is no substitute for that specific grease. Find some Arctic Silver if you don't have any. You probably don't need to ask how I know just how crucial the thermal grease is, do you?

Never been a fan of one-wire alternators. Clock the rear of the alternator to the most advantageous position and make up a tidy wiring loom that stays well hidden.