1970 Bronco Wheeler

[pocketlock]

Been a busy couple of weeks but got the bronco painting finished. Still need to finish mounting my winch again and cleaning up some of the dust from painting but man it looks good for spray paint. Also ended up installing a sniper on it. Was worried about EMI/RFI issues with my HEI in front. But after initial install, she purrs and no noticeable RFI issues so far. Drove it for about 5-10 miles so far and feels good, can't wait til it does a more in depth learn though. I will probably keep my carb and fuel pump/everything to swap over, in a box whenever I go out wheeling so I have a backup in case of issues.

 

[pocketlock]

Going to pick my full width 9 and 44 up this weekend, then on to planning the next pile of parts I will need. Anybody running full widths on stock wedges and stock radius arms, 3.5" lift? Part of me doesn't want to cut the wedges off and mess up the factory caster, but i'm worred that running the stock radius arms will splay them out too much and mess up articulation. I know the right answer is to wait until I can afford long arms or move the wedges in, but I would love to take it out in november on the full widths. Other than that, the sniper has been running great. Only put about 100 miles on it so far with being busy at work, but it's been a joy to drive. Oil leak has been bothering me but i'm trying to remember it's a trail rig and doesn't need to be perfect. Oil pressure has maintained so I just keep an eye on the level and top it off.

 

[1969]

Going to pick my full width 9 and 44 up this weekend, then on to planning the next pile of parts I will need. Anybody running full widths on stock wedges and stock radius arms, 3.5" lift? Part of me doesn't want to cut the wedges off and mess up the factory caster, but i'm worred that running the stock radius arms will splay them out too much and mess up articulation. I know the right answer is to wait until I can afford long arms or move the wedges in, but I would love to take it out in november on the full widths. Other than that, the sniper has been running great. Only put about 100 miles on it so far with being busy at work, but it's been a joy to drive. Oil leak has been bothering me but i'm trying to remember it's a trail rig and doesn't need to be perfect. Oil pressure has maintained so I just keep an eye on the level and top it off.

Hack the wedges off and just link it..

 

[pocketlock]

Hack the wedges off and just link it..

If I had the know how I would love to haha, but unfortunately I am fully aware long arms are more in my skill set.

 

[pocketlock]

I also feel like the control arms would start getting in the way with how low i'm trying to stay, suspension-wise. 2.5"-3.5" suspension doesn't leave a ton of uptravel with radius arms, I can't imagine trying to package an upper link mount in there.

 

[Yeller]

Packaging, packaging, packaging lol. It can be done but it can also make your head hurt lol.

As for leaving the wedges alone and putting it in, it’s been done a bunch. I’ve even seen it done where the spring towers were not relocated. It all works, even the springs being snaky doesn’t really effect how they work, but they may make noise and eventually they will bend and have that shape.

 

[pocketlock]

Packaging, packaging, packaging lol. It can be done but it can also make your head hurt lol.

As for leaving the wedges alone and putting it in, it’s been done a bunch. I’ve even seen it done where the spring towers were not relocated. It all works, even the springs being snaky doesn’t really effect how they work, but they may make noise and eventually they will bend and have that shape.

Would you say there’s no point to doing this with stock radius arms or doable? Just curious. I’m my plan was to keep the wider mounts for stability in the future if possible and eventually get the wider coil buckets after I go to long arms.

 

[Yeller]

IMO it’s worth it, there will be a stability and articulation improvement just from the axle being wider. Of course linking it is best but long arms do make a noticeable improvement over stock. I guess what I’m saying is I’d do it, especially as a progression of mods.

 

[pocketlock]

IMO it’s worth it, there will be a stability and articulation improvement just from the axle being wider. Of course linking it is best but long arms do make a noticeable improvement over stock. I guess what I’m saying is I’d do it, especially as a progression of mods.

Well that makes me feel a little better about doing the swap with the stock arms and upgrading over the off-season. I know I will need to trim the kick panel because the axle will be moved back a little more than normal due to the spread of the arms.

 

[pocketlock]

Got my full widths today, now to touch them up with some new brakes and bearings. Maybe ball joints. And then some steering components, track bar, one ton tie rod kit, etc.

 

[pocketlock]

Went wheeling again this weekend in Uwharrie National Forest. Not much had changed except the sniper honestly. Truck ran great, had a few weird spots where the sniper would surge when the truck was close to stalling but other than that everything worked well. Smacked the rear quarter rocker on a rock and scratched it pretty good, not too worried though as we will be doing a 2x6 rock slider there in the near future. Definitely found some shortcomings and needs that will be addressed soon. All in all a good weekend with great friends and some plans for the future. Wish I had been able to go out with all the bronco guys the week before, but this was the weekend we've had planned for almost a year so it's how it worked out. Hoping to sell my big bronco soon so I can do the long arms, 37s, new rear suspension before the next trip.

 

[pocketlock]

Planning a trip to gulches in november and have a laundry list of upgrade before then. Picked up a set of full widths last year and planning to swap them in. Just ordered some long arms and full width spring perches, along with some shorty headers to clear. Also picked up a spool for the rear and spartan locker for the front to get me by until i'm ready for a full regear/carrier upgrade. Bought a couple foxbody mustangs earlier this year and swapped the sniper to one of them, so I have swapped my carb back over for the time being. Also picked up a ruffstuff GM TRO kit for the HP44 and a ruffstuff track bar kit to get everything situated and stretched as far forward as possible. The rear will be stretched back about an inch with anti-wrap perches. Hoping to get it all done in time and see how she does. Building it similar to Rat Bronco and Coco.

 

[pocketlock]

Been working an hour here and there to get the Full widths swapped in and long arms. Got all the old brackets installed and got the duff extended radius arms tacked in place roughly 1.5" further forward than the stock location measurement. Just picked up some plumb bobs to take some measurements off the frame and see how everything is looking to line up. Any suggestions on square points on the frame to use as reference points for squaring up the axle? I thought about the front body mounts but I think the driver side one is shaped different so unsure about that point. I was debating using the grill as a reference point but unsure of how square that is. Or the back of my winch plate which is squared up to the grill. Wouldn't mind some opinions. I am doing the full width coil buckets at the same time so I don't have my upper buckets in anymore to use as a reference. Once the front axle is square I will use the plumb bobs to center the upper buckets at ride height and go from there. Also doing GM 1 ton steering from ruff stuff at the same time and a Heim track bar from ruff stuff since Everything it being moved forward slightly.

 

[pocketlock]

Got the axle line up as best as I can with what’s left on the frame. Got the steering mocked up and burned one of the coil buckets in. Coming along slowly. Still need to remove the coil and check articulation for steering clearances. Assuming I’ll need to shave the front crossmember and plate it to allow the steering to flex up. But maybe I’ll get lucky.

 

[pocketlock]

Big update and lots of photos. Got some 37" Sx-2 tires for this upcoming trip. Got them mounted and something didn't seem right with the axle. Kept tinkering and it seemed to be about 1-1/2" off on the passenger side. Cut the bracket off and rewelded it and kept going. Fought with reassembly a bit and a few other issues. Finally went to add oil and it just poured out the passenger side and was weeping from the plug welds. Upon closer inspection. The axle was bent forward and down on the passenger side. Bent through the center section so no fixing it unfortunately. Located another axle and have been working on getting it swapped in. Also got my hands on a set of stripped down 11 pack leaf springs to help with the flex a little bit. Have been working on getting the new axle back in and realized my original measurements were spot on and the axle would have been in the right spot had it not been for the bent axle tube. Been working on my tire carrier and have it mostly completed. Need to put my new flares on so I can weld in the side guards and then start working on the skid for the spare and cooler mount. Also picked up the steel to do some 2x6 rock sliders. Looking forward to getting those installed. The plan is to make the rock sliders as the method to lift the body off the frame this winter. So reinforcements up the A and B pillar should help with that. Sorry if the pictures got mixed up.

 

[73azbronco]

Been a busy couple of weeks but got the bronco painting finished. Still need to finish mounting my winch again and cleaning up some of the dust from painting but man it looks good for spray paint. Also ended up installing a sniper on it. Was worried about EMI/RFI issues with my HEI in front. But after initial install, she purrs and no noticeable RFI issues so far. Drove it for about 5-10 miles so far and feels good, can't wait til it does a more in depth learn though. I will probably keep my carb and fuel pump/everything to swap over, in a box whenever I go out wheeling so I have a backup in case of issues.

wait, you had me at spray paint, seriously, or the spray paint using OEM style paint?

 

[pocketlock]

wait, you had me at spray paint, seriously, or the spray paint using OEM style paint?

This was rustoleum lagoon spray paint with a 2k clear spray paint over top. If I did it again i don’t know that I’d do the 2k clear anywhere other than maybe the front fenders/fuel filler area to protect the paint from fuel/oil since it’s parked in my garage if I’m not on the trails.

 

[pocketlock]

Worked on the bronco a bit more today. Cut the passenger rocker out to work on getting it ready for the sliders. Test fit it up. Got my WH flares in today and started mocking them up. I’m thinking I want to go to the body line so that I have the room to clear 40s eventually if I decide to. Just trying to do this once so I don’t have to redo the flares again. That price hurts haha. Also built a cardboard cutout for my spare tire skid/shelf. Hoping to build that in the next couple weeks.

 

[pocketlock]

Got my tow rig stuck in the back yard today troubleshooting some trailer brakes. So the bronco got a little workout pulling her out. Went to my welding class today and working on getting the swing arm on the tire carrier to pull down a little more and got the spare tire rest/skid started. Still need to add the side plates for the skid and the bumper and work on the cooler mount. But it’s coming along.

 

[Tricky Dick]

Worked on the bronco a bit more today. Cut the passenger rocker out to work on getting it ready for the sliders. Test fit it up. Got my WH flares in today and started mocking them up. I’m thinking I want to go to the body line so that I have the room to clear 40s eventually if I decide to. Just trying to do this once so I don’t have to redo the flares again. That price hurts haha. Also built a cardboard cutout for my spare tire skid/shelf. Hoping to build that in the next couple weeks.

I love the look of the flares tight to the body line, go for it.

What did you use for reference points on the frame? I think I can trust the oval holes on top of the frame behind the crossmember.