EFI replacement (options/opinions?)

[walker_creek]

So at OCBR I let my voltage drop (had the alternator breaker off...dumb mistake) and my Sniper started running like crap. Backfiring, hesitation, rough idle, etc.
I assumed the low voltage messed up my tune. But I've put some miles on it now hoping to retune it and it seems to get better for a while, then acts up again. Twice now it has died, and my Sniper display goes all red and "no data" displayed on every gauge. This had been running pretty decent for a couple years, so it's not an install issue.

After talking to Sniper tech support it sounds like the ECU is bad (but they want me to put more miles on it before condemning it). They can repair it for $250, but it's a 4 to 6 week turnaround. I don't think I'm willing to take the time and invest the money to fix a 1st gen Sniper that was never perfect anyway.

So the easy option is to buy a Sniper 2 upgrade kit. $1200 and a "relatively" quick replacement. This would be quick and easy, but I'm not confident the Sniper 2 is much better.

I'm not opposed to an Explorer/Mustang system, but I don't know how difficult it would be to source all these parts. And my engine is a 351W, not a 302.

I've had the Edelbrock Pro-Flow 4 recommended. I like the idea of having timing control and EFI all tied together. This obviously is going to be a more involved replacement, but if it's that much better than the Sniper 2 then I'm all for it. This would cost twice as much as the Sniper2 at $2400, but the timing control and direct injection seem like it could be a big plus. I also like that the Edelbrock uses a 180 thermostat vs. the 195 I had to use for the Sniper.

I have a 2" body lift and a Pro-Flow hood, so I have a decent amount of clearance.

I also have a '91 F-150 parts truck with the 5.8 EFI. Didn't know if that was feasible...pretty tall intake on that...and what would it take as far as computer?

Any suggestions/experience/opinions?

 

[73azbronco]

first fix your electrical problem. Grounds, wiring etc. Going round 2 with sniper, I'd make them give you a hefty discount and send them the boat anchor 1st version

 

[1969]

That’s a bummer! Is your sniper 1 system under warranty at all? Id vote for the pro flo 4 system as that’s what I’m going to use. I like all of the things you mentioned about it as well as it has a standalone ECU unlike the sniper where it’s integrated. If you ever had an ECU problem with the pro flo I would think you could get another computer and not have down time.

first fix your electrical problem. Grounds, wiring etc. Going round 2 with sniper, I'd make them give you a hefty discount and send them the boat anchor 1st version

A discount for what? Sounds like he’s the one that killed his sniper. Why would they give him a discount for that?

 

[walker_creek]

No warranty left. Electrical problems are fixed. I shut the alternator breaker off thinking it would be an anti-theft method. Turns out will start just fine. I didn't notice the voltage dropping until it was too late. That being said, I consider it a major weakness if low voltage kills the ECU.

 

[Timmy390]

Going mustang or explorer will mean a new lower intake manifold that was only available on the lightning trucks or through ford motorsport. There was also a boat version. The truck manifold is way too big to fit under any hood. You could use the truck lower and an adaptor from BC along with 94/95 mustang upper. The adaptor will chock off air at upper RPM's.

I guess I'm saying you're sticking with aftermarket EFI

Tim

 

[walker_creek]

Aftermarket does seem the easier way to go. Anybody have any experience with the 2nd gen Sniper or the Pro-Flow?

 

[Johnnyb]

I would throw my two cents behind Edelbrock proflo 4. After I installed mine it it started and ran well the first time I turned the key!
It is continued to run well in the thousand or so miles that I've put on it since getting it back on the road this spring.
Big advantage of the proflo 4 aside from from being tuned port is it the computer can be remotely mounted away from heat and other electrical interference.

-JB

 

[serial car restorer]

I've been looking at all the various EFI options for my project ('69 EB w/302), and would probably do the Edelbrock if I had the hood clearance. (No body lift, stock hood.) I do like the idea of mounting the ECU away from the engine, and have been leaning toward a Howell TBI for my rig.

 

[Johnnyb]

I've been looking at all the various EFI options for my project ('69 EB w/302), and would probably do the Edelbrock if I had the hood clearance. (No body lift, stock hood.) I do like the idea of mounting the ECU away from the engine, and have been leaning toward a Howell TBI for my rig.

You know I'm not sure how much Hood clearance the proflo 4 requires. I doubt if it's much more than an Edelbrock four-barrel carburetor or a holly for that matter. I'm running a 2 inch body lift but that's mostly for clearance around the drivetrain and it does help with the Explorer serpentine power steering reservoir.

 

[73azbronco]

I consider it a major weakness if low voltage kills the ECU.

mmmmmm, no


voltage drops, means current increase, means to much heat, boom, fry city. Any electronic vs electric device relies on a stable supply, unlike old days of 10 volts getting a carbed eb home.

All the expensive electronics in my house are protected by a UPS.

 

[rjrobin2002]

I did explorer EFIGUY stuff on a 1995 f150 351 and spent a ton.

The used efi upper intakes , fuel rail and sensors was like $500, explorer damper rebalance $200, harness work was like $700, custom 351 cam sensor was like $300, new coil packs and stuff like $500, 351 lightning lower was $700, and I'm sure I spent $500 on plug wires and what not.

 

[Timmy390]

351 lightning lower was $700

Those things are getting to be like hens teeth. The price just keeps going up. I found a boat version i.e. cast iron that had never seen the water. I paid $350 for it back several years ago. It's heavy.....

Tim

 

[snipes243]

First you have make sure the ECUs have a constant 12v or they freak out. Ecu wires directly to the battery is the best.

Sniper 2 does also have the ability to do timing control. FYI

Two other options are either the Original Holley Terminator EFI systems. These efi use either an HP or Dominator ECU so they are supper powerful and reliable. The dominator ECU also have the ability to do trans control for 4r70 transmissions. Supper noce option if you can find one, I'm replacing a howell TBI system with one of these.

The other option is a terminator x stealth. This is a remote mounted ECU has timing and trans control. It would be the next level up from a sniper system.

Both the terminator x and terminator you can get all the sensor from the local parts stores minus the ECU and 02 sensors. The only downside to these 2 systems is the auto learning is pretty cautious and runs the systems very rich. But they can both be professionally tunned which opens a lot of options up for drivability.

 

[bmc69]

mmmmmm, no


voltage drops, means current increase, means to much heat, boom, fry city. Any electronic vs electric device relies on a stable supply, unlike old days of 10 volts getting a carbed eb home.

All the expensive electronics in my house are protected by a UPS.

Exactly. We build and deliver some really sophisticated control systems for ships and craft and the #1 killer of electronics over the years has been exposure to supply voltage too. Usually its pleasure craft (yachts) that were hauled for repairs or maintenance and the work crew (or owner) failed to turn the electronics off.

 

[bmc69]

Two other options are either the Original Holley Terminator EFI systems. These efi use either an HP or Dominator ECU so they are supper powerful and reliable. The dominator ECU also have the ability to do trans control for 4r70 transmissions. Supper noce option if you can find one, I'm replacing a howell TBI system with one of these.

The other option is a terminator x stealth. This is a remote mounted ECU has timing and trans control. It would be the next level up from a sniper system.

Both the terminator x and terminator you can get all the sensor from the local parts stores minus the ECU and 02 sensors. The only downside to these 2 systems is the auto learning is pretty cautious and runs the systems very rich. But they can both be professionally tunned which opens a lot of options up for drivability.

I'm a fan of the HP, Terminator and Terminator X systems. I'm running the flathead V-8 Bronco with the HP system. I'm using the GM style stepper-motor IAC valve too...something I consider superior to Ford's PWM IACs.

 

[fluffybunny]

The easiest fix is to find a Sniper someone is selling or, if you have a Summit Racing store near you, check their clearance center because they sell returned units fairly cheap, and swap out the unit. Load your tune into the replacement and then send in yours for repair. We keep a spare one just for this reason.

 

[ngsd]

I have had good luck with the Sniper and it was flawless. I had a harder time with the PF4 getting it tuned.

 

[ntsqd]

I do not understand why you have to have the OEM intake to run the OEM ECU. That just does not make any sense. It's not like the ECU is going to know what intake is on the engine. You're looking at tuning it regardless, so the choice of intake should not matter (beyond it being an apppropriate choice for the engine's set-up).
For sure you will need all of the expected inputs, but guys on the old eec mailing list were using eec ECU's on engines Ford never made. Like Rover 3.5L V8's, Chevy 250ci straight 6's, and all kinds of other weirdness. I think one guy was even running one on a 13B rotary.

As an aside, the truck intake sucks. Even if it did fit, I wouldn't voluntarily run it without having it radically ported.

 

[Timmy390]

I do not understand why you have to have the OEM intake to run the OEM ECU. That just does not make any sense. It's not like the ECU is going to know what intake is on the engine. You're looking at tuning it regardless, so the choice of intake should not matter (beyond it being an apppropriate choice for the engine's set-up).
For sure you will need all of the expected inputs, but guys on the old eec mailing list were using eec ECU's on engines Ford never made. Like Rover 3.5L V8's, Chevy 250ci straight 6's, and all kinds of other weirdness. I think one guy was even running one on a 13B rotary.

As an aside, the truck intake sucks. Even if it did fit, I wouldn't voluntarily run it without having it radically ported.

You don't........but with the 351w EFI intake selection that will fit under the hood is limited. I had to scoop even with 1 inch BL using the Lightning intake and Explorer upper. As to the ECU, most big trucks and vans that got the 351w were speed density vs maf Not tune friendly and is limited as to the changes you can make. Now depending on year of SD, you can as I did (96 E350 van) convert it to maf as it's just a few wires off from the SN95 Mustang stuff. ECM is a couple hondos. EFIGuy burned me a chip for my upgrades.....

Tim

 

[ntsqd]

I'll admit to not being terribly interested in aftermarket EFI, so I don't know much about them. Anyone who was burned by a Mallory Unilight can likely understand why. The aftermarket just doesn't build the MTBF into their products like the OEM's do. As such, I've no idea what the configuration of the OP's existing intake is. If it has individual injectors, then I would assume that the existing intake, at the least, can be used with an eec ECU.