One of the top goals for this build was it had to fit between the fenders on a standard trailer - it does. We have a camper/hauler that it had to fit in without driving over the fenders.
Another goal was to try and use as many stock/unmodified parts as possible - full width 2008 SD axles with stock brakes, shafts and lockouts, stock F250/350 steel 8"x17" wheels, stock steering components.
Just a little. If my memory is correct 3”.Looks great! Did you extend the wheelbase at all?
I’m guessing 1” in front and 2” out back?Just a little. If my memory is correct 3”.
Maybe, didn’t pay attention to where it came from. Got everything as far as we could without changing the fuel tank and not cutting the Bailie Bilt bumper to clear the tires, which did was enough to keep the tires mostly out of the back of the inner fenders. I was prepared to move the steering box, however the steering pivot points are shorter on the Dana 60 vs the out going 44. The pitman arm got 3/4” shorter due to the steering pivot changes negating the need to move the box.I’m guessing 1” in front and 2” out back?
Right on. No mods to the rear crossmember then?Maybe, didn’t pay attention to where it came from. Got everything as far as we could without changing the fuel tank and not cutting the Bailie Bilt bumper to clear the tires, which did was enough to keep the tires mostly out of the back of the inner fenders. I was prepared to move the steering box, however the steering pivot points are shorter on the Dana 60 vs the out going 44. The pitman arm got 3/4” shorter due to the steering pivot changes negating the need to move the box.
At full compression the rear upper control arms clear the crossmember and the floor by about a 1/4” and the diff cover clears the fuel tank sending unit by a reasonably comfortable margin. Everything is tight and close to everything.
I spotted one in my local junkyard the last time I was there but didn't have time to pull it apart.Look up the F550 front axle shafts if you haven’t already. They slide right in and come with a massive 1550 u joint. I think a set on rock auto is like $300.
10”. It doesn’t take as much as you would think. We reused the stock mounts on the frame and mounted the axle end as close to the caliper as reasonable for easy installation. You need flex for stability, controlling the axle, and leveraging the torque to your advantage is the key. It does droop beyond the length of the springs by 4-5”.What's the rear travel? 12" shock?
Gah I guess I'm doing this. I'm going to spring for coilovers though because I like to be able to level it back out when loaded down.10”. It doesn’t take as much as you would think. We reused the stock mounts on the frame and mounted the axle end as close to the caliper as reasonable for easy installation. You need flex for stability, controlling the axle, and leveraging the torque to your advantage is the key. It does droop beyond the length of the springs by 4-5”.
Imo if doing coilovers you need an antirock sway bar as well.Gah I guess I'm doing this. I'm going to spring for coilovers though because I like to be able to level it back out when loaded down.
I was thinking the radius arm front would provide some stabilization, not enough?Imo if doing coilovers you need an antirock sway bar as well.