Inline six 170ci boost!

[ntsqd]

From listening to, and watching that one run I'm pretty sure that it had a forged crank, but highly unlikely it was a factory Ford part....

Turns out that Ford Model A cylinder centerline distances are the same as a Subaru 2.5L DOHC, and a Laverda MC triple is the same as one of the M6 versions.......

This is the first that I've seen that any Ford 170's had more than 4 or 5 mains. I thought that to get 7 mains one had to start with the 200 or 250 block. I wish for two things, an easy to source better cylinder head for these engines, and that the 250 block's weren't so uncommon. I can see building a long rod 200 in a 250 block for something like a 2 door Falcon.

 

[73azbronco]

having cut my teeth on a 170 back in the 70's, I can say we tried every method including turbo to get more power. Nothing, and I mean nothing you did to a 170 could beat dropping in a stock SBF v8. Cheaper, durable, done.

Don't get me wrong, the 170 was and is a very nice little motor, mine got 17mpg. My 2024 jeep gets 17mpg.

 

[Bajabrewer]

That is a possibility as I have seen various opinions on this. I have attached link to the small six id section of fordsix.com:

http://[URL]https://fordsix.com/ams/small-six-identification.1/

[/URL]

The OP states he has a 68 170.

For some reason the link to fordsix won't let me see the article but I looked around & found it in the tech section - https://fordsixperformanceforum.github.io/Ident-2.html#sum
I remember looking that over when I was looking for a 250 - Very Helpful

 

[Broncobowsher]

There are some interesting head swaps possible. GM LT1 LS style heads will work on a small block Ford. A Volvo head is an easy swap onto a 2.3 Lima Pinto engine.
Even in the Ford world there is the Cleavor, Cleveland heads on a Windsor short block.
Even heard of aftermarket small block Ford heads being put on a GM LS engine.

 

[stout22]

Agreed I have had several over the years. If only Ford had added a couple inches length in the engine bay and made it an option...
But I can say that for me the 250 and NV3550 has been great.

250 and 3550 is what I have in my 71 halfcab

 

[Bajabrewer]

250 and 3550 is what I have in my 71 halfcab

250 M5OD-R2 is what's in my 66 - now to get it finished up & on the road when the snow(salt) stops for the season.

Plan is to get it running & enjoy it for a Summer then maybe fuel injection & who knows maybe a Turbo if I think it needs it?

 

[bmbm]

250 M5OD-R2 is what's in my 66 - now to get it finished up & on the road when the snow(salt) stops for the season.

Plan is to get it running & enjoy it for a Summer then maybe fuel injection & who knows maybe a Turbo if I think it needs it?


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You have accomplished a lot of good work under the hood wish mine looked like that. What is the source for the ps pump and bracket? And radiator. You should have good performance with your carb, ignition and header upgrades.

 

[bmbm]

From listening to, and watching that one run I'm pretty sure that it had a forged crank, but highly unlikely it was a factory Ford part....

Turns out that Ford Model A cylinder centerline distances are the same as a Subaru 2.5L DOHC, and a Laverda MC triple is the same as one of the M6 versions.......

This is the first that I've seen that any Ford 170's had more than 4 or 5 mains. I thought that to get 7 mains one had to start with the 200 or 250 block. I wish for two things, an easy to source better cylinder head for these engines, and that the 250 block's weren't so uncommon. I can see building a long rod 200 in a 250 block for something like a 2 door Falcon.

I hope this link works. Scroll down to #28 to see 1/5/25 update on availability for the aluminum head for 144-250 six.

Vintage Inlines Cylinder Head Update- October 2024

There is a special place in hell for internet scammers. Try contacting Andrew here on this forum @Cox Custom Mechanical He is in Australia and might be able to find you a good working head, or point you to someone who has one. Since you're looking for just a normal one to get you on the road...

fordsix.com

It takes some searching to find the 250 blocks. I have a spare 250 now but thinking about getting one more.

 

[bronco italiano]

250 M5OD-R2 is what's in my 66 - now to get it finished up & on the road when the snow(salt) stops for the season.

Plan is to get it running & enjoy it for a Summer then maybe fuel injection & who knows maybe a Turbo if I think it needs it?


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View attachment 939717

Even when a Bronco gets thirsty, you can rely on Gatorade!!!! That is a cool build. Where did you get the header? Looks like a 6-3-2-1

 

[Bajabrewer]

Even when a Bronco gets thirsty, you can rely on Gatorade!!!! That is a cool build. Where did you get the header? Looks like a 6-3-2-1

Gatorade bottle is left over from when I was running the 170 & it was a 2 minute quick fix - 2 zip ties to hold it to the radiator & a piece of coat hanger wrapped around the top & over the bracket to keep it out of the fan. still works LOL.

The header is an E-bay special - still only $117 https://www.ebay.com/itm/2359122267...d=link&campid=5335857059&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
it was tight fitting it - the rear fits over the starter & the front had to go straight down & under the starter - probably wouldn't work with a 170/200 because it would land on the frame rail but the 250 is taller so it leaves just enough room to make it work. Also had to go mini starter because the header wouldn't bolt to the head without hitting the stock one. Don't have any installed pics yet - maybe this weekend

 

[ntsqd]

Sure can spend a LOT of money on a coolant reservoir if you want to.

Those PMGR starters are THE answer, even if you didn't ask the question. I've never been sorry to have installed them and will be installing them in future projects as they come up.

If you insert a short stub of tight fitting tube into and then weld them to those collectors, and then make the down-stream flange and tubing fit over the stubs they will eliminate any exhaust leak possibility. I don't even use a gasket, just a thin bead of UltraCopper where the stub and the flange meet. I usually put a section of SS bellows in the tube just down from those collectors.

 

[Bajabrewer]

You have accomplished a lot of good work under the hood wish mine looked like that. What is the source for the ps pump and bracket? And radiator. You should have good performance with your carb, ignition and header upgrades.

PS pump bracket https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Power-Steering-Pump-Bracket-6-cylinder/productinfo/128422/
I did shorten the top arm some so I can run the dual battery someday. there is already a tray on the passenger side but the PS pump was going to hit the battery so it should clear now.
PS pump https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Saginaw-Power-Steering-Pump-w_-Pulley/productinfo/12841/
Radiator is an Amazon $100 aluminum that's a couple years old - It has a center top hose & if I were to do it again I'd get one like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S70W23S/?tag=classicbroncos-20
with a drivers side lower & passenger side upper

The Carb is a manual choke rebuilt e-bay $50 score of unknown origin. It is a Motorcraft so was on a Ford at some point - maybe a 240/300? I was going to try to run the numbers to see what it came from but haven't yet - I'll try it & see how she runs...

 

[Bajabrewer]

I hope this link works. Scroll down to #28 to see 1/5/25 update on availability for the aluminum head for 144-250 six.

http://[URL]https://fordsix.com/thr...ylinder-head-update-october-2024.86839/page-2

[/URL]

It takes some searching to find the 250 blocks. I have a spare 250 now but thinking about getting one more.

I did see that post on the aluminum heads & would love to have one but right now everything about this build is budget friendly & will stay that way. If I see a 250 that I can snag as a spare I'd love to have 1 or 2 or.........

 

[Bajabrewer]

Those PMGR starters are THE answer, even if you didn't ask the question. I've never been sorry to have installed them and will be installing them in future projects as they come up.

If you insert a short stub of tight fitting tube into and then weld them to those collectors, and then make the down-stream flange and tubing fit over the stubs they will eliminate any exhaust leak possibility. I don't even use a gasket, just a thin bead of UltraCopper where the stub and the flange meet. I usually put a section of SS bellows in the tube just down from those collectors.

I do like the PMGR on my other Bronco(351w) so it was a no brainer when I needed to do it on this one.

Great Idea on the tube - these actually have a short tube after the flange that the collector slides over so I don't think I'll have any problems but your suggestion could help if I do get a leak. It's all bolted up tight now & waiting for me to fire it up.

 

[spap]

Look at any Australian ford in six s usually 4.0 liters, I know out of context but pretty amazing

 

[ntsqd]

4.0 * 61ci/L = 244 ci.

If they're actually 250's then they're 4.09L LOL......

 

[bmbm]

I did see that post on the aluminum heads & would love to have one but right now everything about this build is budget friendly & will stay that way. If I see a 250 that I can snag as a spare I'd love to have 1 or 2 or.........

Understand that. I see the aluminum head as a high rpm performance modification and if I was building a six for a Mustang I would consider getting it.
But for my Bronco I want low to mid range power and that is what the 250 provides even stock. To go faster I don't have to rev it high just keep shifting up. I originally got the extra 250 planning for a mild performance rebuild but after driving the 250/3550 combination I am actually quite satisfied with the performance. Currently on 30" tires and going to 31" but doubt if it will make much difference. I still aim for a mild performance rebuild on the spare 250 for low to mid range torque results.

 

[ntsqd]

Not all aluminum cyl heads have huge ports in them. The biggest advantage of an aluminum cylinder head is that you can run more static compression ratio with one than you can with an iron head. In any application, tractor engine or Indy engine. More static CR means better overall efficiency and more power within the rpm range that the ports work best in.

SBC (presumably SBF too, but I don't know that for sure) "race" cylinder heads start at about 220cc intake runner volume. The aluminum heads used on the last of the traditional SBC powered Corvettes and on the fabled ZZ4 383ci crate engine have 165cc intake ports (~25% smaller). Those engines lay over much past ~4.5k rpm and there's no need to even rev them that high.

If the valves used in the Inline AL Cyl head are significantly larger than stock, then the head likely has large ports in it. But if the valves are stock size or pretty close, then the ports are probably also close to stock size.