• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Rebuilding Transmission

Dci

Joined
Aug 29, 2023
Messages
2
Hi all,

I have some leaks in my transfer case and decided I’m going to rebuild both that and the transmission. This is my first time taking a transmission off a car and am looking for some tips.

My understanding:
1) Disconnect battery
2) Lift car (4 Jack stands)
3) Remove drive shafts, exhaust, cables
4) drain fluid
5) take off transmission and transfer case

I assume I’m missing some steps so any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,211
What year Bronco? (not the most important info, but it does help sometimes)
What transmission? A stock C4 auto, or a stock 3spd manual? Something different?

With most manual transmissions, especially the stock one, you MUST lock the transmission into a gear before separating the t-case from it.
I don't have my book in front of me, but someone should remember if it has to be 1st gear, or REV gear. But it must be locked so that the output shaft does not pull out more than about 1/8" or so. Any more than about a 1/4 inch, and you'll drop the roller bearings out of the input/output shaft interface.
If you're rebuilding the manual anyway, this is not a big deal as you'll have to take it apart anyway. But if there is any chance you end up not needing it, you'll want to keep it intact.
Dropping the roller bearings out, means a full disassembly.

And when I say "lock" it in gear, you do not just shift it into a gear. You must also lock the levers together so that they do not come out of gear from pulling on the tail shaft.
All the shop manuals lay out this process. If you're digging into a Bronco this deep, you should have at least a Chilton's or Haynes shop manual. Or better yet, a Ford manual.

Paul
 
OP
OP
D

Dci

Joined
Aug 29, 2023
Messages
2
3spd, pretty sure it’s a RAT, but I got a rebuild kit that works for all of the variations. It’s a 66 btw.

The 66 manual is only preliminary. Would a 67 manual work? I know they’re basically the same
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,211
Should be. Even a 66 manual should be pretty complete I would have thought.
I don’t remember ever seeing a new vehicle release that didn’t have a full printed manual already available. Usually multiple volumes with Ford, as they liked to separate things out a lot.
All my original GM manuals were in a single volume about an inch thick.
I’ll be interested to see and hear how your rebuild goes. Would love to see inside of an original 66 transmission! Make sure to take pictures and post them up here please.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,611
3spd, pretty sure it’s a RAT, but I got a rebuild kit that works for all of the variations. It’s a 66 btw.

The 66 manual is only preliminary. Would a 67 manual work? I know they’re basically the same
If both are from the same engine, should be just fine.
But you can't swap between a V8 and an I6, the lengths are different. The I6 is a longer engine and uses a shorter transmission since both have the transfer case in the same location.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,211
I always thought it was only the intermediate housing that was different length.
So the transmissions were different like as well?
 

thegreatjustino

Contributor
Red Head Grease Monkey
Joined
Jan 23, 2002
Messages
15,980
Loc.
Stockton, CA
I always thought it was only the intermediate housing that was different length.
So the transmissions were different like as well?

Think about that. If the transmission output shaft is encompassed by the adapter, how would the shorter I6 adapter fit over the V8 output shaft? The output shaft length needs to match the length of the adapter.
 

Oldtimer

Contributor
Jr. Member with Sr. moments
Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Messages
1,205
Loc.
Sunnyvale, CA
Must be locked in 1st gear before separating 3sp from transfer case.
1741492267345.png
 

Oldtimer

Contributor
Jr. Member with Sr. moments
Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Messages
1,205
Loc.
Sunnyvale, CA
V8 RAN T-case adaptor housing is 9-3/8"
V8 RAT T-case adaptor housing is 8-7/8"
V8 C4 T-case adaptor housing is 7-1/2"
I6 RAN T-case adaptor housing is 6-1/2"
I6 MT output shaft is 3” shorter than the V8 MT output shaft
RAN has 2.99 1st
RAT has 3.41 1st
RAN tranny is 1/2” shorter than RAT
I6 & V8 MT use same adapter input shaft, 7-31/32 long
V8 AT uses unique adapter input shaft approximately 5/8” shorter

1741492658247.png

1741492721869.png
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,611
I can't remember my 3-speed linkage this morning, but there is nothing really special about the special tool. ANYTHING that holds it in that position will work. A scrap of wood and a couple wood screws would work. If the linkage needs to be held from spreading (I think that is the case with floor shift but not column shift, again mental games early in the morning on stuff I have now owned in 20+ year) a heavy zip tie could be used to hold the trans in gear.
 

.94 OR

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 5, 2009
Messages
1,826
When I pulled my 3-speed out I got to looking at that linkage configuration.
I believe that locking bar holds the shift arms apart essentially squeezing all the goodies together inside the box.
A zip-tie or wire would pull them together instead. But you are correct that anything that would hold them in that position should work.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,211
I believe we have heard success stories of using zip ties. I have the tool though, so never tried anything else.
 
Top