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I had that problem once and it was the linkage that had been bumped out of position. Pop the hood and place that shift rod in its proper position and try again.

If I recall correctly, only 3 bulbs light the entire gauge cluster. Two other bulbs are for turn signal indicators, and the 6th light is your high beam indicator. Did you happen to install one of those gauge overlays (stickers) ???

I just finished welding in my floor pans using .023" wire on my Millermatic with no burn through problems. Buy a spool of thinner wire and give THAT a try! Plus it doesn't dump quite as much ugly filler in your weld on thin materials (= less grinding for me)

Thank you all! When I get a day off, I'll do a lot of wire testing and get it figured out. I have a LOT of wires to check voltage on. I'll let you all know what I find........maybe there's an easy fix, or maybe I'll have to splice the two wires like mentioned above to accomplish my goal.

I had tapped into the threaded stud on the very back of the ignition switch. It tests a full 12v with key in the "ON" position. Now I find that it drops to .25v when cranking. So it sounds like I need to use the wire I have NOW, then additionally run a wire from the "I" post on the starter...

I installed a new HEI distributor and found that the "ignition" powered wire I was to use (which measures a full 12v w/key on) drop to .25 volts when I'm cranking the starter. Obviously this won't work. So how do you guys with HEI get a solid 12v power to the dizzy when key is "ON" and in...