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There shouldn't be any wear, the wheel doesn't spin on the shaft due to the splines. What may have happened is that someone overtightened the nut and forced the wheel on too far and expanded the opening on the taper.
Visually it doesn't look too bad. You can cut open that area and take a look, If the rust is just in that spot patching it is probably your best option. You have to be sure that you are removing all of the rust or it can pop back up.
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/set-screws/set-screws~/alloy-steel-extra-long-extended-tip-set-screws/
One of these would be easy to modify and make one.
Sounds like a good idea. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but it's my understanding that when there is less cable or rope on the drum you also have a torque advantage so it is easier on the winch motor.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/124994547573?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335857059&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
No luck on the dad's garage edition.
I remember that Bronco on top truck challenge. I Thought that was an interesting swap. Lincoln Mkiii came with the same engine minus the supercharger, you can pick them up pretty cheap when they pop up.
Good point. When my wife and I purchased a hauler for our mustang we had to step up to the next level gvw trailer. the base weight rating was seven thousand pounds, combined weight would have been too high.
I would pull the valve covers before running it more. My 74 sat for a long time without being started, when I got it going again it had a dead cylinder. I couldn't figure out why until I pulled the valve cover and found a damaged pushrod. Luckily for me nothing else was hurt. I think the valve...