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I once asked the question, "How about putting a bronco body on a wrecked TJ." I was not treated kindly. You are treading on sacred ground here.

At one time I ran Duff's 3.5" up front and 3.5" 10 pack in the rear. I went with the 10's because I had a soft top. After a year or so I added the 11th in. It was probably due to sagging, or bigger bumper/spare, or the occasional rear passenger, or some combination of all, but it definitely...

Yes we are. Most adults can control their language.

At 10 psi I occasionaly would roll them off the rim. At 12 I got great footprint, but to much wrap. At 15 the wrap got a little better, but I didn't feel they grabbed as good. Am currently running 37" MTR's, (load range E), at 7psi on beadlocks, with no appreciable wrap. The stiffer sidewalls...

Ran a set of ProComp muds in 35". The only thing I did not like about them were their soft sidewalls. When I aired down for slickrock I would get a tremendous amount of tire wrap.

I've broke axles and went to chrome moly, Broke U joints and went to CTM's, Have had my ARB in the whole time with never a problem.

I used the 10 pack years ago and it worked well. It didn't seem to sag to much over time, but my adding tools, big spare, extra riders, etc. made it tend to bottom out more than I liked. I ordered the 11th spring from Duffs, installed it and was happy with the results. To install it you take...

How does one go about getting them revalved?

I've got coilovers in the rear, so I'll have to find a good home for the Bilsteins. Sounds like the Cage shocks are working out, maybe I will try them.

Currently running Bilstein 5125's in 14" (valved 270/50) and hating life. When crawling they are OK, but on road they seem to be to soft on compression. A small bunp seems to bottom them out (bump stops) and the body roll is wild. I know that the problem begins with the soft coils. I have...

Started out with stock front end with new ARB and 4.56 gears. Rear was Detroit and 31 Spline axles. Broke stock front U joint, taking out the axle. Went to chrome moly shafts and CTM's. Here is where something interesting happens, my rear is now the weak link. Broke a driveline because of...

After dealing with a horn that might or might not work for years I finally gave up. I didn't want a tacky aftermarket buttton so I connected the horn wire to my windshield washer button, which I wasn't using. Works great.

Same as above. I squirt a small abount of compressor oil in the intake before rides. It isn't used that much, one ARB and the occasional airing up.

Which is more important to you, street or trail? Duff's seemed to be more street friendly, while the Cage fronts are great crawling. Ive run 35"tires with a 2" body lift and 3.5 susp. lift with few problems.

Lower ratio in my transfer case is what killed me. My axle wrap was controlable until I installed a 4.3 T case.

Thanks for the input guys. I live near Pleasant Grove ,Ut. Jeff

It is snowing here now, if it clears up I'll get some pics. This all started last year when I wanted to extend my wheelbase. I relocated the leafs all the way to the end of the frame which put me at about 99" WB. It made an incredible amout of difference where I normally wheel (Moab). A few...

Got my 4 link rear done and it is great....so is the body roll. Haven't done any serious crawling yet, (maybe on Monday), but on the road it is scary. Maybe I will get used to it, but I am thinking of the Currie setup. I've got the Cage arms up front and this might add to the body roll...

Moved mine back 7" and rewelded them in the same position in relation to the frame as they were originally were. No noticeable problems.

Just go to your local Ford dealer, they are $10 or so. They are color coded as to tooth count.