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I don’t believe it’s needed but I figure more space always helps. I’m still not sure which ac system I’ll go with.

Welding up seemingly endless holes in the engine bay this weekend, need to clean it all up then it’s ready to blast with paint. Still debating wether I want to modify the cowl to go straight across to make more room for an ac unit at some point.

Came across this video, does a decent job going into some of the details of this engine

This website has adapter kits for certain manual transmissions and transfer cases though I believe they’re all Europe based models and would be harder to source here. I was originally going to make my own adapter to use my nv4500 until I realized you could use the Zf8hp with this engine

The electrical has definitely been one of the more involved parts of this and has required a ton of research and staring at wiring diagrams. I was able to have the ecu programmed for standalone use, otherwise I would need the CAS module and key fob from the original car. The engine also came...

It’s pretty deceiving! I measured it all to be about the same length as my 351w nv4500 and Dana 20 combo.

I’m in California, I sourced the engine from a dismantler in Los Angeles for $2500 with the ecu and harness. The transmission was sourced from a dismantler in Northern California for about 3k and the transfer case I got on eBay with zero miles

Hey everyone! Figured it’s time I get a build thread going. I’ve had my bronco for about 9.5 years and daily drive it for 7 of those years. I’ve decided to swap a bmw diesel and automatic transmission into it and as you’d expect the project scope seems to increase indefinitely. The engine: the...

The drivetrain has been removed and is now on a pallet

Willing to part out as well, make me an offer!

I have the entire drivetrain for my bronco for sale, it’s a 351w and a nv4500 though so it wouldn’t be stock

You can check for continuity, which you likely have since it runs, and measure the ohms. Though most multimeters don’t have the resolution needed to check for a the quality of the ground as you’d want it to be on the order of milliohms.

I once had a hesitation/misfire only under load, replaced everything I could think of that could cause it and it didn’t fix it. Even swapped from efi back to carb with no luck. Ended up being my grounds. Regrounded everything and it went away. Fire it up in the dark and see if you can see...

I’m currently swapping a bmw m57 diesel out of a 2011 335d into my 70 bronco with a Zf8hp 8 speed behind it. It’s a bi turbo 3 liter inline 6, all aluminum, will be 440hp and 710tq at the crank. The engine and trans should be lighter than my current 351w and nv4500 setup. I’ll start a build...

Selling the drivetrain out of my early bronco. It’s a 351w, nv4500 and Dana20. I put the 351 in about four years ago and pulled it form a 96 f150, it has a hydraulic roller cam from the factory, Fitech fuel injection, msd ignition box, new msd distributor, new timing chain, new rear main seal...

I’m also in the process swapping to a Tesla brake booster, looking forward to seeing how it turns out!

I had this same problem and it ended up being the ground at the turn signal like was said above. Also I’m Huntington Beach. The salt air doesn’t do us any favors with corrosion

I hope you've sorted this out by now. I was having similar issues earlier this year and instead of the engine shutting off I developed a horrible misfire (I was using the timing control settings). I tried everything, replaced the coil, replaced injectors, replaced the magnetic pickup in the...