• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

1970 Bronco BMW Diesel Swap

Dylan_Shaffer

Contributor
Newbie
Joined
Apr 12, 2020
Messages
30
Hey everyone! Figured it’s time I get a build thread going. I’ve had my bronco for about 9.5 years and daily drive it for 7 of those years. I’ve decided to swap a bmw diesel and automatic transmission into it and as you’d expect the project scope seems to increase indefinitely.

The engine: the engine is an m57 diesel found in the 2009-2011 bmw 335d sedan and the 2009-2013 bmw X5 diesel. It’s a compound turbo 3.0 inline 6 with dual overhead cams. The block and head are aluminum and it comes stock with all forged internals. It’s one of the most reliable and overbuilt engines bmw has made. With the stock turbos and high pressure fuel pump you can expect 440hp and 700tq at the crank with a tune once you remove all of the emissions stuff. This is essentially the configuration I’ll be running. It should get around 30mpg on the highway but time will tell.

The transmission: the transmission is a bmw zf8hp70 made by ZF. It’s an 8 speed transmission from the 2014-2019ish bmw x5 diesel. These things are super robust, shift extremely quick and smooth and are being use by every major car maker now. You can find them in everything from a dodge ram to a Lamborghini. The bmw variant has the largest output shaft and smallest bell housing making it ideal for this swap. There’s actually a good amount of support for this engine and trans combo in Europe which is where I sourced the adapter plate.

Transfer case: I’ll be using the ATC45L transfer case that comes in the BMW X5 and blurs right up to the trans. It doesn’t have a low range but for what I do (mostly city highway and desert) I’ve never needed low range.

This project has made me super thankful for this forum as well as any other classic car and off-road forums I’ve been on in the past. Turn out BMW guys are generally super unhelpful and reluctant to share knowledge, essentially the opposite experience of what I’ve had here.

I’ll slowly start to add more info and post updates about things I have completed on this build and my progress going forward!

Happy to answer any questions and take any suggestions!
IMG_6180.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3938.jpeg
    IMG_3938.jpeg
    181.7 KB · Views: 107
  • IMG_5855.jpeg
    IMG_5855.jpeg
    241.3 KB · Views: 104
  • IMG_5499.jpeg
    IMG_5499.jpeg
    214.6 KB · Views: 87
  • IMG_5451.jpeg
    IMG_5451.jpeg
    222.8 KB · Views: 80
  • IMG_4434.jpeg
    IMG_4434.jpeg
    272.3 KB · Views: 78
  • IMG_4435.jpeg
    IMG_4435.jpeg
    181.4 KB · Views: 82
Last edited:

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,960
I was thinking you might keep it in the Ford family. The mid 80s Continental with the factory BMW diesel.
 

kat

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2015
Messages
1,041
Loc.
Bristol
Good luck with your adventure. Seems alot to change out, hope all goes smooth. But as you said, there are a great bunch of guys on here to answer questions. At least you didn't put a chevy in it.
 

.94 OR

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 5, 2009
Messages
1,722
I'm intrigued.

I installed heated/power BMW seats in a Yota build and lost a lot of hair trying to wire them up. Hoping this goes easier.
 

okie4570

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
9,251
Loc.
NW OK
Very awesome. What state are you in, and where did you source the drivetrain? Salvaged? Thanks.
 

toddz69

Sponsor/Vendor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 28, 2001
Messages
10,148
Interesting project! Following along for sure.

Todd Z.
 

ep67bro

Contributor
Bronco Junky
Joined
Aug 28, 2008
Messages
3,666
Loc.
Easton, MD
Very Interesting. That drive line looks loooong!! should make for some interesting drive shafts! Good luck and keep us posted!
 
OP
OP
D

Dylan_Shaffer

Contributor
Newbie
Joined
Apr 12, 2020
Messages
30
I’m in California, I sourced the engine from a dismantler in Los Angeles for $2500 with the ecu and harness. The transmission was sourced from a dismantler in Northern California for about 3k and the transfer case I got on eBay with zero miles
Very awesome. What state are you in, and where did you source the drivetrain? Salvaged? Thanks.
 
OP
OP
D

Dylan_Shaffer

Contributor
Newbie
Joined
Apr 12, 2020
Messages
30
Very Interesting. That drive line looks loooong!! should make for some interesting drive shafts! Good luck and keep us posted!
It’s pretty deceiving! I measured it all to be about the same length as my 351w nv4500 and Dana 20 combo.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,960
I more worry about the electronics when doing swaps with this newer stuff. Then all the little tidbits that add up.
Doing unicorn swaps (I have done a few) I have found it best to start with a whole running donor car. No compatibility issues with -hey, they made a running change to the harness connector- surprises. And so much new stuff is now all CAN connected, and they are doing secure CAN (probably safe with 2010 stuff). I have seen issues where an engine won't run unless the correct steering rack is connected to the network. When stripping the engine down, I do it calling it removing the car body from the engine. How much stuff can I remove and it still runs happy? What parts have to be there and what can go away? Pretty soon you have everything you need for it to run and none of the original car left.

I hope you have enough to make the collection of parts work. Not sure how happy that transfer case will be without seeing all 4 wheel speed sensors?
 

Prizefighter

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2010
Messages
1,192
I drive a 335d with this same engine. I've thought about it many times. I'm in a FB group for North American BMW diesel owners and a guy put one in a Jeep. I was asking him a few questions to see how he liked the power/weight ratio, install tech, and stuff. This will be fun to watch.
 

Tricky Dick

Sponsor/Vendor
Full Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2023
Messages
225
removing the car body from the engine.
This is pretty much my method for one of my other projects, a IH Loadstar on a E450 chassis. I've been paring away the van until I get to a running engine alone in a chassis. After removing something I make sure it starts again, if not I back track.
 
OP
OP
D

Dylan_Shaffer

Contributor
Newbie
Joined
Apr 12, 2020
Messages
30
I more worry about the electronics when doing swaps with this newer stuff. Then all the little tidbits that add up.
Doing unicorn swaps (I have done a few) I have found it best to start with a whole running donor car. No compatibility issues with -hey, they made a running change to the harness connector- surprises. And so much new stuff is now all CAN connected, and they are doing secure CAN (probably safe with 2010 stuff). I have seen issues where an engine won't run unless the correct steering rack is connected to the network. When stripping the engine down, I do it calling it removing the car body from the engine. How much stuff can I remove and it still runs happy? What parts have to be there and what can go away? Pretty soon you have everything you need for it to run and none of the original car left.

I hope you have enough to make the collection of parts work. Not sure how happy that transfer case will be without seeing all 4 wheel speed sensors?
The electrical has definitely been one of the more involved parts of this and has required a ton of research and staring at wiring diagrams. I was able to have the ecu programmed for standalone use, otherwise I would need the CAS module and key fob from the original car. The engine also came with its complete wiring harness still intact. As for transmission control a company called conformance makes a controller that allows the CAN protocol of the engine to talk to the internal trans controller. I’m going to program the servo motor on the transfer case such that’s it’s either fully engaged or fully open since I don’t really care to have engagement variability used in the awd system. Though that’s a way later thing, I’ll be happy to get this thing operating in 2wd first! There’s luckily a ton of support for this engine and trans combo in standalone configuration in Europe as diesels are much more common over there. I’m sure I’ll run into many hiccups once I start integrating everything electrically and it probably won’t fire up on the first go but only time will tell.
 

Tricky Dick

Sponsor/Vendor
Full Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2023
Messages
225
The electrical has definitely been one of the more involved parts of this and has required a ton of research and staring at wiring diagrams. I was able to have the ecu programmed for standalone use, otherwise I would need the CAS module and key fob from the original car. The engine also came with its complete wiring harness still intact. As for transmission control a company called conformance makes a controller that allows the CAN protocol of the engine to talk to the internal trans controller. I’m going to program the servo motor on the transfer case such that’s it’s either fully engaged or fully open since I don’t really care to have engagement variability used in the awd system. Though that’s a way later thing, I’ll be happy to get this thing operating in 2wd first! There’s luckily a ton of support for this engine and trans combo in standalone configuration in Europe as diesels are much more common over there. I’m sure I’ll run into many hiccups once I start integrating everything electrically and it probably won’t fire up on the first go but only time will tell.
Are there any manuals that fit this engine? And low range transfer cases that fit those manuals?
 
Top