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Did you check the BJs? It's not hard - just lift a wheel off the ground & check if it tilts/clunks/wobbles when you pull the bottom & push the top of the tire. If so, try to watch or feel the BJs while an assistant rocks the tire for you. Loose wheel bearings will also allow wobble/clunk, but...

Easy solution: return it for refund, and get a good horn from a good store or etailer. This was the OEM for most later Fords and several other makes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BG848B5/?tag=classicbroncos-20 But they're much cheaper in JYs, obviously. In any case, stay OUT of the zone.

You should put ALL your truck's details & history (as much as you know) into your signature(<-click that) so it shows with each post, as this page explains: (click this text) Phone apps don't always show signatures, so you may need to switch to a real browser in desktop mode on your phone, or...

Good. Before, the autoadjuster screws were stuck - they couldn't turn & adjust. That's why the pawl was sitting on the tooth, NOT doing its job, either. Once the threads are free, any time the pawl comes up onto a tooth (which only happens when the shoes move so far that they NEED adjustment)...

With the sender wire disconnected from the gauge AND from the tank, measure resistance from the sender wire to a known ground. It should be >10K Ohms.

Yes, the output cable has to be large enough to handle the 3G output, of course; and the original cable sized for ~40A won't do it. But that's just from the alt. output stud to the starter relay by the battery. The voltage regulator wires are all there & available when you delete the 1G VR, so...

Just run a temporary jumper wire from the sender body to a known ground to check briefly if the gauge comes back to life.

The specialty 1-wire 3Gs use at least 2 wires; a heavy output wire and a small turn-on wire. Common reliable 3Gs have 1 additional wire (parallel to the heavy output) and a short jumper wire, so it's really not worth the risk, hassle, or cost. As this page shows, all the wires needed for a...

The frame is ~0.120" (~7ga), so 1/8" (0.125") is thicker than the frame, which means it's plenty thick enough as a doubler/fish plate. As a bumper, you'd have to be REALLY good with your design & fabrication for it to be strong enough. But instead of using flat plate on the outside, it's better...

My guess would be that the cable is not sliding freely, so when you release it, that side goes slack momentarily, long enough for the ball to come out of its pocket & slide across.

...or you're still boiling the gas inside by lowering the pressure. Depending how much is inside the pump, it could take a while to vaporize & remove it all. Warming the pump would speed that up, though.

There should be a strong odor of gas from the weep hole, even if the gas is flowing past the pump arm into the crankcase. But when you pull the pump off (if the engine has run recently - it doesn't have to run long enough to get hot), you should see if there's gas around the pump arm. If you're...

That suggests there's NOT some obstruction plugging the pickup tube, which was the point of the test. (click this text)

Try spinning the pump the other direction.

Did you look at the diagram I linked? It shows exactly what to do with each original & each new wire.

1-wire alternators are known to be twitchy. If it gives you any trouble, install a normal 3G regulator. Refer to this diagram, and KEEP all the factory wiring in case you need it. Either tape the unused wires into the harness, or go ahead & bring them to the 3G 1-wire regulator connector so...

Steel does not creep. If it survived being lifted off the frame for 5 minutes, it won't change shape in 5 months, 5 years, or 5 decades up there. If it appears to be tweaked when you put it back down, that happened during the lift - not during the intervening months.

Nothing I post is accidental. And if it was useful, then it was helpful; so brief was enough. But I never said to believe what I said - I said to believe what Mark said. So the condescension wasn't coming from me - you just read something that wasn't there.

Factory front recovery eyes: (click this text) Door latch mod so the inside handles always work: (click this text) Shoulder belts on the cage: (click this text) Dodge Colt Vista wagon rear seat: (click this text) Modern wiring: (click this text) More dome lights with map light...

Did you wire it with a fuse, a relay, &/or an inertia switch? (click this text)