Cooter's Explorer 5.0/4R70W Swap

Cooter_76 · May 29, 2019

71 CA Bronco said:
Hey Cooter. Nice progress. I'm just a bit behind you on my explorer/4r70w install. Curious as to what trans mount you are using?

I'm getting ready to drop motor and trans in chassis. I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on the Altas II. I assume the crossmember mods are the same?

This thread is a great help. Thanks brotha!!

I modified the original Bronco cross member (based on the instructions that came with the Advanced Adapters kit), then made some new brackets to mount it further back on the frame.
I don't know if this same kit would be the right combo if using an Atlas transfer case, but suspect it would be. Might be best to call AA and tell them what you're planning to do.

71 CA Bronco · May 29, 2019

Gotcha! I dug my old cross member out today. Haven't looked at it in a few years. Amazing how fast the years go... Anyway ordered the Altas II today. Five to six weeks lead time, so I will have plenty time to think about it before fabrication. Thanks again.

Cooter_76 · May 30, 2019

Got my new shafts from Tom Wood's and realized I'd neglected to specify the narrower 1 1/4" front shaft. %) What I received instead is their standard 2" shaft, which is still narrower than the stock 2 1/2".

I installed the front shaft and it looks reeeeally close to clearing the bottom edge of the pan.

With a 2 1/2" suspension lift and stock radius arms, the front end doesn't flex all that much. Curious for those that have done this conversion, do you think this will work as-is, or do I need to send this one back and have it re-worked with the smaller diameter tube?

Cooter_76 · Jun 2, 2019

I think the driveshaft-to-pan clearance is going to be fine. I flexed the suspension with a floor jack this morning, and it was nowhere close to hitting.

Started mocking-up the Duff's 2-into-1 exhaust, and the driver side down pipe(?) is really close to the front driveshaft. I think I'm going to have to trim some length off the header end of this pipe, but emailed Duff's to get their take before I go hacking-away.

Then there's this vent line from the transmission that terminates right above the exhaust. Thinking I'll need to bend this out of the way.

Cooter_76 · Jun 2, 2019

I also tapped and plugged the EGR hole in the lower intake, based on this thread.

Cooter_76 · Jun 20, 2019

I finished installing the 2-into-1 exhaust. Wound-up taking about 5/8" off the upper end of the driver side head pipe for some extra clearance. I'm happy with the way it turned-out. Hopefully the tailpipe won't take too much abuse.

Cooter_76 · Jun 20, 2019

I had to elongate the hole in the tunnel to accommodate the twin sticks. Basically cut it back to where the tunnel starts to taper down between the seats.

Cooter_76 · Jun 20, 2019

Now it's time to start focusing on things under the hood, beginning with fuel lines. I already have a Bosch 69100 frame-mounted pump that I'd used with the Holley Sniper. I've moved it to the driver side frame rail and plan to run hard line from the pump to the firewall. I've read a few threads about the fuel rail, and it sounds like it's possible (preferred?) to use the Explorer extensions to run the fuel lines back towards the front of the engine, then over to the driver side inner fender. Then buy an adapter to connect the Explorer lines to rubber at these connections.

Is that the general consensus? Does anyone have a link to the specific adapters handy? I've purchased new o-rings for the injectors. Is there any other part of this system that should be replaced for peace of mind?

Cooter_76 · Aug 21, 2019

It's been a hot, busy summer and I haven't had any time to spend in the garage until recently.

- Today I installed a new heater core and reinstalled the heater box. Compared to a lot of pics I see here on CB.com, my heater control cable is a lot shorter. There's no way it will reach as far as the area between the hard lines on the engine and the heater core. Are these cables available in different lengths?

- I was planning to use the transmission cooler lines from the Explorer. They're a nice pair of hard lines that follow the contour of the engine oil pan, but there isn't enough room between the ports on the transmission and the exhaust pipes. Assuming I can run some rubber lines on top of the frame rail?

- Not sure the best way to route the wiring in the engine compartment. If I'm relocating the battery to the driver side, does it make more sense to mount the relay box, fuse panel and starter solenoid on the driver or passenger side wheel well?

Cooter_76 · Sep 6, 2019

Change of plans: Instead of relocating the battery, I've ordered this Arctic Air box from BC Broncos. Once that comes-in I'll be able to figure out where to run/mount the wiring, relays, fuses, etc.

I purchased a new radiator for a '94 V6 explorer, and a pair of lower hoses that I can splice together to work with the angled fitting on the radiator. I also took a field trip to the pick n pull to get a matching fan shroud and a pair of lower radiator supports from a Taurus. I need to cut the lower radiator mounts off the Bronco core support, but it looks like everything will line-up pretty well.

svastano · Sep 6, 2019

Great progress!

Cooter_76 · Sep 16, 2019

Last week I was comparing the radiator I'd bought to some pics here on CB.com, and realized there were different core thicknesses. As best I can tell, there are three different thicknesses available for the '94 Explorer:
- Manual transmission OR without AC: 1" thick core
- Auto with AC: 1 3/4" thick core - this is the one I bought originally from O'Reilly
- Auto with AC: 2 1/4" thick core - Someone had referenced this Spectra brand at Pep Boys. I exchanged the original for the unit from Pep Boys, with the assumption that thicker core = better. I did notice that the Spectra radiator has oblong holes in the upper mounting ears, as opposed to round holes in the one from O'Reilly.

Made some simple brackets to locate the mounting ears ~ 1 1/4" above the top of the core support. The fan shroud fits well, and there's about 1/4" clearance between the radiator cap and the hood.

For the upper radiator hose, I used a Gates GAT 22310, which is the stock replacement for the '96 Explorer 5.0. I trimmed quite a bit off the end that connects to the thermostat housing. The diagonal hood brace rubs against it a bit, but I think I can put some sort of protective sleeve on it.

For the lower hose, I cobbled-together a hose for a 1988-1995 Taurus (MBH 21712) with a hose from a 1999-2001 Explorer 5.0 (GAT 22452), using a piece of 1 1/2" exhaust tubing for the splice. Got the idea here.

I still need to route transmission coolant lines and secure the bottom of the radiator to the core support. It looks like one lower mount will work on the driver side. The passenger side may be too close to the frame to fit.

.94 OR · Sep 16, 2019

Optical illusion or is the new radiator sitting in square to the support?

Cooter_76 · Sep 16, 2019

.94 OR said:
Optical illusion or is the new radiator sitting in square to the support?

I was hoping no one would notice. ;D No, in the pic, it isn't sitting level/square, but there's some room to adjust it. Pic was for mockup purposes.

Cooter_76 · Sep 18, 2019

Yesterday I bent-up some hard lines to run from the transmission to the core support. Will plan to run from the transmission, through an auxiliary cooler, then the radiator and back to the transmission. Had to get creative bending the tube around the exhaust. Baby steps...

Cooter_76 · Oct 16, 2019

I recently made a bracket to relocate the PS reservoir and had a local hydraulic shop build a high pressure hose using the metric fitting from the Explorer and a new 11/16-18 inverted flare for the steering box. Baby steps...

Teal68 · Oct 16, 2019

Baby steps, but really it's good progress!

broncochevy · Oct 16, 2019

I will take any step forward

stretch · Oct 19, 2019

Cooter,

Have you received your Artic Air Box yet? I'm either going to go this route, or remove the air box all together and raise the cowl in that area for AC access. Just curious about your thoughts on the quality and fit.

Cooter_76 · Oct 20, 2019

stretch said:
Cooter,

Have you received your Artic Air Box yet? I'm either going to go this route, or remove the air box all together and raise the cowl in that area for AC access. Just curious about your thoughts on the quality and fit.

I have received it, but haven't fully-installed it yet. I did paint it and placed it for mockup purposes. Overall, I'm happy with it so far. It's well-built and sturdy. The latch may need some massaging in order to close properly, but I'll wait until I have everything bolted-down before I mess with it. Thought I would save a couple bucks and some time by ordering it in bare metal vs having BC powder coat it, but in hindsight I should have spent the extra $.
A couple things to note:
- You have to buy this extra $40 adapter to fit the Explorer MAF.
- The silicon hose BC provides does not have a port for the Explorer's IAT sensor. Jason said it's easy to cut a slit in the hose to fit the sensor, but I haven't tried this yet.
- The kit comes with a K&N-style oiled filter. I'm not sure if I'll use it, or a standard paper filter. Apparently there are a couple different styles that will work with this box, but I haven't tried them yet.
- When I ordered mine, Jason said he had 20-something boxes in stock, but only a few silicon intake hoses. I would definitely give them a call to make sure they have everything in stock before placing an order.
- There's about 2" clearance between the inside of the fender lip and the edge of the box. Some styles of hood shocks may not clear if they mount to the nearby fender bolt.

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