Cooter's Explorer 5.0/4R70W Swap

[Rocko1012]

Intake Info

Will 96 intake/ MAF stuff work with 98 engine/ECM. I apologize for such a generic question but EFI is Greek to me, Leaning as going along.

 

[904Bronco]

I just looked through the harness that Garry sent back to me. His harness does have connectors for the gauges, so I can remove this connector as well as the wires associated with it on the interior side of the firewall, correct?


This is all in the new harness too, I believe. So I should be able to remove these wires as well?

Thanks for the info!

Yes you (and I) can use Garry's wires to hook to the instrument cluster or gauges... So you can remove the stock harness wires, unless you could maybe repurpose them to do something else...

 

[904Bronco]

Will 96 intake/ MAF stuff work with 98 engine/ECM. I apologize for such a generic question but EFI is Greek to me, Leaning as going along.

Well 96 motor has internal EGR, while 97 and later have external. So the 96 intake upper and lower have a port in the heads to feed the EGR valve. This is similar to the 87-93 Mustang style... But they could be blocked off to work on a later motor... Provided you were going to delete EGR.
I would have to look at the wiring on the 96 MAF again to be sure, as it has a round plug that adapts square plug on the MAF... since it is inside of the air cleaner. But I believe, with the proper parts, it could be adapted.

 

[fordguy]

904 Bronco helped me out with the part number for a reverse operated heater control valve and hoses. Sorry, I don't have that info with me here, but I had to do that and had to get creative with one of the heater box control lines. Had to mount one of the lines to the Explorer PCM box.

EFIGuy gave me a tip about using Dodge Neon coil packs instead of the stock Exploder ones that limit you to using the stock Exploder wires. With the Neon packs you can make your own cut to length wires. However, you will need to make a bracket to mount the Neon coil packs. (pics attached)

Good luck with your build! Cheers, B2

B2 what air intake system is that on your rig, looking for that info. thanks.

 

[Cooter_76]

The nut clips I'd planned to use to mount the PCM didn't work out, so I borrowed a tool from a friend and installed some 1/4"-20 nutserts.

 

[Cooter_76]

I moved-on to addressing the transfer case adapter. No1hedberg's thread was a big help in figuring out how the parts for the spud shaft assembly go together.

 

[Cooter_76]

Which brings us to the current roadblock...
When I pulled the old intermediate housing off the 4R70W, one of the bolts broke. %) Fortunately, there's enough of the bolt protruding from the transmission that I can get a pair of vice grips on it. I've been soaking it with PB blaster and applying heat for a few days now, but this little piggy won't budge. Any tips here?

 

[sykanr0ng]

PB Blaster may be okay as a general purpose penetrating oil, but when it is really stuck Kano Labs Kroil or Aerokroil is the stuff.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Weld a nut to it. The heat from the weld will help break it loose and you can put some reliable torque on the nut without it slipping.

 

[JSmall]

The nut clips I'd planned to use to mount the PCM didn't work out, so I borrowed a tool from a friend and installed some 1/4"-20 nutserts.

That is what I did as well. After seeing these pics it reminded me that I never sent you pics in a PM. Sorry about that! Looks like you got it figured out

 

[fordguy]

PB Blaster may be okay as a general purpose penetrating oil, but when it is really stuck Kano Labs Kroil or Aerokroil is the stuff.

Yes if that does not get it, you in trouble.

 

[Cooter_76]

Thanks for the suggestions. I tried welding a nut to the broken bolt (three different nuts, actually) and all it managed to do was twist-off the part of the bolt that was welded onto the nut. %) I'll try to locate those other penetrating oils, but how bad an idea would it be to just consider this a dowel pin? I mean 5 out of 6 ain't bad, right? ;D

Here are some obligatory pics of cutting the shaft on the back of the 4R70W. I took about an inch off and the assembly seems to fit like a glove.

 

[jagbucket]

what are you heating the stud with ? a propane torch does not have enough heat you need a cutting outfit to create heat but have to be careful not to overheat a rule of thumb is to soot up the part to balck with pure gas first and then heat until soot is burned off and stop. also the welded nut is another good way just keep repeating. Welding supply has heat sensitive crayons that melt at set temps get one for alum. but the soot is below that so safe.
also hit the end of the stud in to crush the rust on the threads before and as u are trying to remove how hard is up to you as there is a limit. working in marine environment i found there is an entire science on removing corroded bolts some are counter intuitive but the navy spent millions in manuals
also youre not heating the stud of course but the casting

 

[rjrobin2002]

Use Kroil oil by applying it morning and evening for a day or two and give it a try.

Have you heated the trans aluminum only with a propane torch, then try turning the bolt. Aluminum expands well and it may expand off the bolt.

Obviously dont use a cutting torch and blow a hole through the trans or get it so hot it melts seals.

 

[Cooter_76]

Use Kroil oil by applying it morning and evening for a day or two and give it a try.

Have you heated the trans aluminum only with a propane torch, then try turning the bolt. Aluminum expands well and it may expand off the bolt.

Obviously dont use a cutting torch and blow a hole through the trans or get it so hot it melts seals.

I'll try the kroil for breakfast and dinner (with a sensible snack in between.) Have tried heating just the bolt and just the aluminum at different times with a MAP torch (supposedly a bit hotter than propane.) Between that and my attempts at welding nuts onto the bolts, I've got it as hot as I feel comfortable with.

Thanks for all the suggestions! I thought these 23-year-old "new" parts would be less hassle than the 46-year-old original parts! ;D

 

[rjrobin2002]

Kroil oil would be last shot, then use it as a dowel is what would do. But I am less anal than some on here.

 

[Cooter_76]

Kroil oil would be last shot, then use it as a dowel is what would do. But I am less anal than some on here.

All I needed was for one person to say it's OK to use it as a dowel. Thanks for being that guy! ;D

 

[rjrobin2002]

There is a machine shop process where they use some type of laser to get stuck steel bolts out of aluminium housings, my friend had them do it for some bolts stuck in an aluminum boat block. Only like $25 an bolt removal.

 

[Cooter_76]

I think I'm going to wind-up drilling and tapping that stuck bolt in the back of the transmission.
In the meantime, I've hacked the cross member and mounts to accommodate the new intermediate housing.

 

[Cooter_76]

I picked-up one of these Metric Drill/Tap/Deburr sets from Harbor Freight today. It was just ticket to tap the threads in the back of the transmission housing after drilling-out the majority of the bolt.