1 ton TRE's question. Easy... update! more advice needed

[EBCRAWLR]

i bought a kit similar to this...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TIE-ROD-DRA...ries&vxp=mtr&hash=item35aa03a415#ht_830wt_955

which one would go to the pitman arm? (one has about a 1/2 inch space from the top of the taper to the base... would that be the one?)


ES2026R DRAG LINK END

OR

ES2027L DRAG LINK END

 

[EBCRAWLR]

ok, had to double check! haha

i lied, both have the space above the taper, however one is longer R/H thread, and short one is L/H thread. Any difference on where each one goes?

 

[70_Steve]

I'm in the middle of doing this now.

The TREs with the double taper, inside the red oval, are for the drag link. The TREs with the single taper, inside the green oval, are for the tie rod. It would make sense to use the longer TRE for the tie rod end of the drag link.

 

[75brnco]

Here is a pick from there website

 

[EBCRAWLR]

after playing and looking and fitting i did exactly as u mentioned! great minds think alike apparently!

im doing a TRO, (gonna have to modify track bar) and going back to a stock pitman arm with Drag link end mounted below the pitman arm. should work nicely!

 

[red hot71]

Single taper, double taper? Whats the diff?

 

[70_Steve]

Single taper, double taper? Whats the diff?

One taper...!

I assume you can see the difference in the pic. The TRE's with the "double taper" will take a higher misalignment. This is necessary at the pitman arm end, for sure.

 

[EBCRAWLR]

One taper...!

wheres my facebook like button? ;D

 

[EBCRAWLR]

ok change of plans... so my stock pitman arm idea isnt going to work..

(to be clear... i call the drag link, the link between the pitman arm and the tie rod.)

now im back to using my 3 1/2 inch drop pitman. well i was gonna run the drag link end (DLE) at the pitman arm on top of the pitman. (the nut closest to the ground) my reasoning is, there should be some sort of an angle to the draglink, in relation to the tie rod.

on the converse, could i mount the DLE to the underside of the pitman, nut closest to the frame?
its just with a TRO and a drop pitman and then add an under pitman mount, the drag link is practically flat! LOL that doesnt seem legit to me! lol

PS disregard any relation to the track bar... all that will be re-worked to match my decision.

 

[70_Steve]

So you're trying to second guess steering geometry.

Take a look here.

http://bulletproofsteering.com/geometry.html

Edit: FWIW, my track bar will mount, on the frame end, at just about the stock location. I'm planning on running the stock pitman arm, with the TRE (DLE?) under the pitman arm (nut on top). I'm doing TRO (not that that makes much difference) and plan on using the info at that link to determine where the track bar mount point will be on the axle tube. I actually plan on using a piece of cardboard and tracing the arcs of the drag link and track bar to determine the height of the track bar mount.

I'll let you know how that works out!

 

[EBCRAWLR]

yeah i would like to know how it works for you.

with the gear box im running, using a stock pitman arm and putting the TRE (i call it a DLE cause its the End that connects to the Drag Link;D) under the pitman arm (the only option) the nut being closer to the frame its getting really, really close for comfort! (shock hoop bolt and the threads of the TRE wont clear, when pitman arm will be sucked tight)

do u get what im sayin? consider your setup... and only change the stock pitman arm to a drop pitman. can u visualize how that lowers the draglink quite a bit? im not overly concerned about it if the general consensus is, NO BIG DEAL!

 

[DirtDonk]

In a perfect world, having a perfectly level draglink would actually be somewhat desirable. Unfortunately, getting the trackbar to match that angle close enough would not be easy.
You could use a drop and a riser of course, but I'm not sure there is room for all that under there. Never tried it though, so you never know.
The riser aids clearance between the lower trackbar bolt and the tie rod in a TRO situation, so that part is good at least.

What is wrong with using the stock pitman arm again? I couldn't quite tell from what you said.
If the dropped one is too low, and the stock one too high up, what about one for a full-size Bronco? They usually have just a bit less drop, and have a slightly different angle on the draglink end (originally intended to be front-steer) so might help with your dilemma.
Not sure if they're all that way, but the ones we sell are.

Paul

 

[EBCRAWLR]

i believe the full size ones are keyed different or longer.. idk just what i always thought.

if i use a stock pitman and snug everything up tight, my front shock hoop bolt head interferes with the TRE castle nut. it might... and i mean might, clear, but it would be by less than... hmm 1/4 inch easy... probably 1/8th.

 

[DirtDonk]

Ok, gotcha. Didn't think about the hoop. Is that a Duff then, that wraps around the frame rail? Can you pull the bolt, or grind it down for clearance, then weld the mount to the frame?

And yes the FS arms are keyed differently (at 90° locations), but the master splines can easily be notched out with a file or something to let them orient correctly on an EB type box.
That's what I've been running on mine for years.

Paul

 

[EBCRAWLR]

yeah its a duff setup. (yes it wraps around the frame) bolt on. i considered welding it in, but talked myself out of it. no real reason other than, i dont want to weld it in. haha (i can and am fully capable)

i finally said screw it! lol and took the drop pitman arm and reamed it. (for tre under mount) lets see what happens! worst case scenario, it wont work.. best case! it works!

trying to line up the center of lock-to-lock, and knuckles side to side. (to cut the DOM draglink)

so i plan on leaving about 1/2 inch adjustment at both drag link end. with that said, do u think having about 1/4" off center lock to lock and knuckles aligned, that i should be able to correct any alignment issue with the already mentioned full inch of adjustment?

 

[DirtDonk]

Hard to say, but I would think that 1" is plenty under "normal" circumstances.
Bend a tie-rod however, and "normal" goes out the window.

Personally, I'd be comfortable with 1" of adjustment. Not sure what you mean though, by "1/4 inch off center lock to lock and knuckles aligned"?
What am I missing?

Paul

 

[EBCRAWLR]

your missing the redneck gene which allows you to make sense of what the heck im trying to say! LMAO

lets see if i can explain.. the tires need to be pointing forward. i measured from hub to rear on each side, its within a 1/4" using my redneck eyeballs!

the steering needs to be centered, (in my case, from center, i have 1 3/4 turn to lock in both directions.)

those are not precision measurements and therefore will probably need further final tuning. so if i leave 1/2" of adjustment on both end to play, will I be in the clear? (1 inch total adjustment... thats going in.. or tighter together. the outward adjustment would be alot! (probably in the 6 inch plus range) which will obviously not be needed

 

[EBCRAWLR]

i put a few pictures in the gallery!

 

[DirtDonk]

Looking good. As long as you get a more accurate measurement of your knuckles being parallel (potential toe-in) than just the old eyeball method, then you should be good to go.

Even going to the trouble of only tack welding the fittings to the tubes until you get the tires mounted so you can check for exact toe-in measurements might be a good practice.

Hopefully someone who's done it recently will chime in with any helpful details and hints.

Paul

 

[EBCRAWLR]

i think we got it handled!

and thats the plan! i have a lincoln 180c, (which is capable to 3/8") but im just gonna put in some good tacks, mount tires, and recheck the steering, lock to lock and toe in/ toe out! then (trailer) head to a buddies place and burn in with a miller 230 or 250 (something like that... plus hes a better welder!)