14 bolt rear end build thread, shaved 15 bolt, ring gear turn...

[ntsqd]

With a good rear p-brake, front burnies are a blast in a gravel parking lot! Rig something to hold the p-brake ratchet from engaging or hold the button down if you have converted to a hand lever.
I'm jest sayin is all, never done anything so irresponsible myself. Uht-uh. :-X

 

[nvrstuk]

Sounds like fun TS!! Have to give it a try!!

So it sprinkled here yesterday and I was running around town in FWD (cause that's all I've got) and lol... hard to not spin the front drivers...

 

[nvrstuk]

ACTUALLY did something today! I spent 2 1/2 hours plasma cutting then angle grinder cutting (tight fit) and then grinding the tubes smooth. What a mess...

Anyway, I thought I'd drill a hole in the tubing to check wall thickness like Steve suggested and I'm glad I did... it's only 1/4" wall... WOW, what a shocker. I really thought the minimum wall thickness on these 14 bolt housings was 3/8" wall and many of the early ones are/were 1/2" wall. Guess not....

SOOOoooo, I'll be trussing this thing for sure!!

 

[ntsqd]

Seeing the vent barb there, my favorite thing to do with stuff like that is convert it to an AN adapter fitting and use a Push-Lock/Barbtite hose end on the adapter. Have I mentioned just how much I detest hose clamps?

 

[nvrstuk]

Yeah, the press in barb hose fitting will be removed and tapped. Never used "high dollar" AN hose for a vent line... what hose do you use TS?

Remember, I have access to John Deere parts around here... that or Amazon!! lol

 

[nvrstuk]

Who has the lowest profile truss for the 14 bolt? Don't need something like the high quality SEMA trusses held in place with threaded rod... lol

I've been looking at Barnes 4WD and they have a decent sized not so gaudy, not weighing another 100# (look what I've got), hopefully something that would fit truss...

This is their shortest truss...does not reach to soon to be welded on caliper bracket...

The truss in the 2nd pic is 48" wide actually supporting the axle tubes whereas I'm sure the 1st pic isn't long enough to support the tubes from bending. Constructed of 3/16" and 1/4" and actually weighs less than the one in the first pic. It is also minimal height, just clearing the housing, keeping my upper link mounts as low as possible (which is what I need).

Decision made! thanks for "listening"... lol

 

[ntsqd]

Yeah, the press in barb hose fitting will be removed and tapped. Never used "high dollar" AN hose for a vent line... what hose do you use TS?

Remember, I have access to John Deere parts around here... that or Amazon!! lol

I use the Push-Lock type hose and hose ends for almost everything. Rare outside of brakes that I use the braided SS type hose for anything. Like these, only usually in brass or steel unless in a pump fuel system where corrosion from the alcohol-borne water in the fuel could be a problem:
https://www.summitracing.com/search...Order=Default&N=fitting-style:socketless-barb
Example:

Aeroquip FC332 or equivalent hose is what is supposed to be used on these fittings. I have also used emissions barrier fuel hose on these hose ends with long term success, but no real cost savings. For a vent hose I'd just use regular fuel hose and call it good enough.
If you're just going up to the frame I'd use -4 size. If going clear into the engine bay for a sophisticated breather system then I'd use -6 size.

Truss, maybe WFO?
https://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/Chevy-14-Bolt-Truss-with-Pinion-Guard/3466/4653/3799

 

[Yeller]

I'd do just enough truss to do you upper links. Then cut some 2-1/2 or 3" OD 1/4" tube in 1/2 length wise and run that the length of the tubes, low profile and gives you the section modulus of the original tube plus the added tube plus the air gap created between the 2, strong, lightish (that's an enguneerin term) and low profile.


I'm with TS, I hate hose clamps, I use this stuff for everything, although with fuel I'm starting to use tefflon lined SS for fuel, the additives are hell on everything. I get it from my local hydraulic hose supplier.

https://www.parker.com/literature/4281%20B1.pdf

 

[ntsqd]

Try the Emissions Barrier fuel hose. I buy the EFI rated stuff for all systems. Cost per foot is about the same as FC332 but I can get it at my LAPS (& in pinch even from one of the auto parts whore-stores). I've had better longevity from the fuel hose than from the FC332. No known local source for Parker stuff here. This coastal smoggy desert is hell on polymers and the outer cover of FC332 doesn't last as long as the fuel hose does.
As an experiment I hung the Walbro EFI fuel pump from two sections of the barrier hose pushed onto these fittings under that Valiant. Was the only support that I gave the pump. 5 years later no sign of any trouble.

 

[nvrstuk]

So I've been reading everything I can find on why the tubing is only 1/4" thick out towards the ends of the housing on mine...

Found a guy on Pirate who said he had bent his 14 bolt housing on both sides so after pulling it (cut the ends off) he found that the outer part of the tubes had 1/4" wall thickness and the inner part where it was pressed into the casting was 1/2". This was on a '90's Suburban housing... wth is going on???

How do I find the "odd duck" and get to enlighten others on it... ?? %)

 

[nvrstuk]

Steve, I like the low profile practical idea of using the split tubing. I could weld it at the center section of the simple truss in the first pic to resist twisting also. I plan on getting (wow, actually buying not making my own brackets, truss mounts, etc...) a pinion guard that also attaches to the truss/upper link mount. Spread the load of the upper link mounts to everything I can...

 

[Yeller]

So I've been reading everything I can find on why the tubing is only 1/4" thick out towards the ends of the housing on mine...

Found a guy on Pirate who said he had bent his 14 bolt housing on both sides so after pulling it (cut the ends off) he found that the outer part of the tubes had 1/4" wall thickness and the inner part where it was pressed into the casting was 1/2". This was on a '90's Suburban housing... wth is going on???

How do I find the "odd duck" and get to enlighten others on it... ?? %)

they are thick at the ends due to the spindles being spin welded to the tubes. If you cut the spindles off they are really thick and weird shaped from this process. as for how to get the thick housing, I'm not really sure other than getting a cab and chassis housing, they were higher GVW and have several special things about them, like hubs, backing plate spacing and some even spring perch spacing. But nothing is sure fire.

 

[Yeller]

Steve, I like the low profile practical idea of using the split tubing. I could weld it at the center section of the simple truss in the first pic to resist twisting also. I plan on getting (wow, actually buying not making my own brackets, truss mounts, etc...) a pinion guard that also attaches to the truss/upper link mount. Spread the load of the upper link mounts to everything I can...

I've used the WFO truss, its a nice piece but I think it still takes up too much space, where space is a premium. On mine the brackets are welded directly to the cast, no truss would have ever gotten them low enough to clear the floor and I wasn't making clearance in the floor.

 

[nvrstuk]

Floor space is a premium‐no cutting allowed!! lol

The truss pictured below only sticks above the cast diff by 1/2" allowing my present 4 link geometry to work. My potential issue is clearance btw my frame rail and the top of the truss on the axle tube during uptravel.

I have so little clearance in every area due to my up travel that clearance btw a truss and the frame might be non-existant!

If you look at the pass side of the rear end housing in this pic, you will see the lower link coming in slightly below the midway point of the tubing, the caliper is mounted at 12 oclock, and the ORI mount is almost directly opposite the 4 link mount (appr the same height in relation to the tubing).

Split tubing truss-
I did some rough measurements this am and even a pc of 3.25" tubing cut down the center will have to be notched around my lower 4 link mount and the ORI mount...

...right where I need the most support at the ends of the axle, I might have to do some serious notching to see if I can try Steve's idea on using a pc of tubing... I will split a pc of 3" PVC down the middle (I will check OD of it compared to my axle housing OD) and see if I can squeeze it in there... sure be low profile...

 

[DEEPWOODS]

T

This is the cab and chassis Yeller told me to get.Where did you drill to see if it’s the 1/2” tube? The tubes are 3 1/2” on it . Some threads say the are 3 3/8

 

[nvrstuk]

Measure in appr 2" from the mounting bracket for the disc caliper..

Deepwoods. With a level on the WMS on each hub, what is the EXACT WMS that you have with that 2nd gen C&C housing?

My 1 ton, 2nd gen housing is 3 1/2" OD.

thanks

 

[DEEPWOODS]

Brian ,It is 64 1/4 “ . I don’t like the bolt on brake bracket I have the offset is not broke on it correct and the caliper sits at a angle the pads don’t sit flush and the top edge of the pad is about 1/8” above the rotor. I am going to cut the mount off like you did and use the weld on brake brackets. Seams like I always do everything twice .Also I might need the room for some other brackets ,Keith

 

[nvrstuk]

Keith- did you swap hubs to get that 64" WMS or not? Check with Lugnut4x4 as he is a wealth of information and has great prices for common Chev brake applications on any and ALL axle housings... I know if you swap hubs it throws the offset of the caliper bracket off.

So you are going to run the dually hubs that came with it to keep that 64" WMS then?

https://lugnut4x4.com/product-category/rear/

 

[DEEPWOODS]

Brian I am going to run the dully hubs and use f250 hubs out on the HP44 that I am cutting down for now. I am planning on going to A Dana 60 king pin later.Trying to decide on what gears to order. Do we need thick cut gears for the 14bolt with arb

 

[nvrstuk]

Good planning...

Yes, thick cut for 5.13's