1966 Ford Bronco manual steering shaft coupler and seal replacement. Am I out of luck trying to find this?

[Jonathan_Cole]

If you zoom in, theres a gap on either side, one of which looks like a place where i can relieve tension and the other a small flex point. It's coming out today or tomorrow. Stay tuned. Thx for all the support

If you remove the 3 screws and plate from the turn signal switch that sleeve should slide right out. It's not pressed in.

 

[thegreatjustino]

The real question is why are you worried about removing it?

If you're trying to pull the steering shaft out, you pull it out the bottom and there's no need to remove the piece you're referring to.

 

[Gsav69]

The real question is why are you worried about removing it?

If you're trying to pull the steering shaft out, you pull it out the bottom and there's no need to remove the piece you're referring to.

It looks like the clip may prevent it from sliding out the bottom. I'm working on it this weekend. I'll take some pics and share soon. Thx again.

 

[thegreatjustino]

It looks like the clip may prevent it from sliding out the bottom. I'm working on it this weekend. I'll take some pics and share soon. Thx again.

As stated, it's not attached to the shaft in any way. It simply slides on and off the shaft. You do not need to remove it to remove the steering shaft through the bottom of the column.

 

[Gsav69]

Ok guy. I'm gonna noob out here. My javelin shaft wouldn't slide out without taking the bumper off or the whole column out. Nonetheless it's out. I installed the borgeson steering box which it hitting my rad support and had weird holes drilled in it to mount it. What my dumb ass can't understand is why the top half of this 2 piece shaft can slide up and down with virtually nothing holding it in place. Am i overthinking this or is it the rigidity and the set screws in the bottom shaft that holds it in place? Here is the rough install. Last pic is the "factory" holes. Any thoughts (and abuse) will be welcomed.

 

[DirtDonk]

What’s moving up and down? The shaft inside the column, or the upper half of the new lower shaft?
If the shaft in the column, then you probably just need to raise that clamp at the lower end.
Loosen it, slide it up to the bearing, then tighten back down. That clamp around the shaft is what keeps the older shafts from moving up and down.

The problem with power steering boxes hitting the core support is pretty common. In fact, even Ford boxes can hit the core support, which is why in late 72 Ford started modifying the core support to have a bump out for clearance.

The funny extra hole in the box is just to force a non Bronco box to fit a Bronco frame.

With the new shaft, make absolutely sure that you use thread locking compound on the set screws!
Or better yet, follow along the other thread about how to replace the set screws with some more able-bodied bolts. It’s a very interesting read here, or perhaps on the second page of the tech section.

 

[Gsav69]

What’s moving up and down? The shaft inside the column, or the upper half of the new lower shaft?
If the shaft in the column, then you probably just need to raise that clamp at the lower end.
Loosen it, slide it up to the bearing, then tighten back down. That clamp around the shaft is what keeps the older shafts from moving up and down.

The problem with power steering boxes hitting the core support is pretty common. In fact, even Ford boxes can hit the core support, which is why in late 72 Ford started modifying the core support to have a bump out for clearance.

The funny extra hole in the box is just to force a non Bronco box to fit a Bronco frame.

With the new shaft, make absolutely sure that you use thread locking compound on the set screws!
Or better yet, follow along the other thread about how to replace the set screws with some more able-bodied bolts. It’s a very interesting read here, or perhaps on the second page of the tech section.

Thanks bud. Ill reset the clamp for sure. Makes sense.

I've been following that other thread. It's scary af lol. Im not going to be driving the truck much in the short term but I will likely reread that thread now that i have the shaft and peeps have posted some pics. It's been hard to follow without it.

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes, lots of technical info posted by obviously technical gurus. But there are certainly plenty of steering shafts running around with set screws and locknuts.
However, don’t ever go out without putting the thread locker on them. Without it, even with a fairly well jammed up nut, they can loosen up under just the right/wrong circumstances.

So, as Ford Prefect liked to quote from the Encyclopedia Galactica, or rather, the hitchhiker‘s guide to the galaxy…“don’t panic!“
Yet…

 

[DirtDonk]

When you’re doing the clamp, there are a few things to keep in mind. And it might help to have someone assisting you up at the steering wheel.
Push down at the steering wheel against any spring pressure that might be in there. But not so hard that the components rub on each other when you’re turning the wheel.
It doesn’t always happen, but it can.
As the person is pushing down to close the gap, you’ll be pushing up on the clamp to get it seated in the bearing race.
It’s just a plastic race and metal ball bearing setup, so you don’t want to use too much pressure.
When you have it the way you want, tighten the clamp, and away you go.

You might consider slapping a little grease up in there as well, before you push the clamp up.
If yours is the early style that is. I forget what we’re talking about here, but is that 66 column also? Or do you have a 74 or later column?
Changes the bearing design, but your clamp looks like the early style so a little grease wouldn’t hurt.
Later models used a sealed bearing and didn’t need re-greasing.

 

[Lobi]

This may be an old thread. Idk I am new here. But I had a 66 Bronco. If I understand correctly, the steering column shaft is moving. The 66 Bronco has a unique (ish) way to secure the shaft. It actually has a piece cast into the steering wheel that aligns the bearings and hold them in place.
I has this problem when I installed an aftermarket steering wheel. I still had the original steering wheel. I local machine shop turned a brass (or bronze) sleeve that cured the problem. I greased the sleeve, it held the bearings in place like the original steering wheel.
My aftermarket steering wheel was by Grant. It was an inexpensive fix. I hope this helps.

 

[Gsav69]

When you’re doing the clamp, there are a few things to keep in mind. And it might help to have someone assisting you up at the steering wheel.
Push down at the steering wheel against any spring pressure that might be in there. But not so hard that the components rub on each other when you’re turning the wheel.
It doesn’t always happen, but it can.
As the person is pushing down to close the gap, you’ll be pushing up on the clamp to get it seated in the bearing race.
It’s just a plastic race and metal ball bearing setup, so you don’t want to use too much pressure.
When you have it the way you want, tighten the clamp, and away you go.

You might consider slapping a little grease up in there as well, before you push the clamp up.
If yours is the early style that is. I forget what we’re talking about here, but is that 66 column also? Or do you have a 74 or later column?
Changes the bearing design, but your clamp looks like the early style so a little grease wouldn’t hurt.
Later models used a sealed bearing and didn’t need re-greasing.

I have a 66 column. I also have a brand new washer/retainer for the bottom of the column. The metal washer with the felt on one side. I assume the felt side faces in. I'm just not sure how much pressure to put on that washer/retainer with the clamp. Like how much play if any, should there be. I'll pull clamp off. Shoot more grease in and do what you recommend. Maybe I'll even read the manual lol.

As for the set screws, I will loctite the balls out of them lol. I could have cut the 66 shaft and added a DD but I was trying to make this a tad safer while keeping the OEM steering setup in tact for a future owner. I'll be pissed if the "safer" 2 pirve shaft ends up killing me due to set screw failure lol. Thanks again man.

 

[DirtDonk]

The metal washer with the felt on one side. I assume the felt side faces in.

Pretty sure that's cooorrectomundo. Been a long time, but it sounds logical anyway.

I'm just not sure how much pressure to put on that washer/retainer with the clamp. Like how much play if any, should there be. I'll pull clamp off. Shoot more grease in and do what you recommend. Maybe I'll even read the manual lol.

Not a lot. Does not need to clamp anything tightly. Just there to keep excess movement at bay.
In fact, the helper does not need to put much pressure downward on the wheel. Just enough to close most of the gap, and put a little pressure on the spring. In a perfect world, the upper components won't be able to push down so far as to contact other stuff (like the shift collar), but I've heard of cases where pushing down too far caused them to rub against one another.
No rubbing allowed!
So push down gently but firmly, then push upward on the clamp just so that it's in contact with the lower bearing and washer/seal/thingy.
Tighten bolt pretty firmly (but again, don't go all GI Joe with kung fu grip on it. Just firm...
That should do the job nicely.

If you feel like there is play when you push down on the steering wheel after that, do it again but slide things up tighter. If you feel like it's too tight, or anything is rubbing, lessen the tension on the clamp.
It's probably got scientific and engineering tolerance and torque values, but it can be done "by feel" just as well.

Paul

 

[Gsav69]

Pretty sure that's cooorrectomundo. Been a long time, but it sounds logical anyway.

Not a lot. Does not need to clamp anything tightly. Just there to keep excess movement at bay.
In fact, the helper does not need to put much pressure downward on the wheel. Just enough to close most of the gap, and put a little pressure on the spring. In a perfect world, the upper components won't be able to push down so far as to contact other stuff (like the shift collar), but I've heard of cases where pushing down too far caused them to rub against one another.
No rubbing allowed!
So push down gently but firmly, then push upward on the clamp just so that it's in contact with the lower bearing and washer/seal/thingy.
Tighten bolt pretty firmly (but again, don't go all GI Joe with kung fu grip on it. Just firm...
That should do the job nicely.

If you feel like there is play when you push down on the steering wheel after that, do it again but slide things up tighter. If you feel like it's too tight, or anything is rubbing, lessen the tension on the clamp.
It's probably got scientific and engineering tolerance and torque values, but it can be done "by feel" just as well.

Paul

Thanks again bud. I should have the system fully in tonight and bled. Will report back.

 

[Gsav69]

Hey folks. Fix one issue and another resurrects. As i tightened the steering wheel to its final resting place, my gap got tight which was ok EXCEPTTTT the horn has shat the bed. If I'm reading things right, i should loosen the main tube under the dash and at the firewall as well as the clamp on the steering shaft and let a little slack out to add to my gap or adjust as needed? I searched for videos on how to get this gap right and couldn't find any? Does anyone now what that gap should be? Thx again

 

[DirtDonk]

I don’t think I’ve ever seen a specification in print.
Although back in the day, most of them seemed pretty consistent, and obviously it’s too tight if it’s doing something to the horn. Is that what you meant?
Or is it the horn stopped working for some other reason? Is the gap so tight that it’s got parts rubbing on each other?
If so, I think it’s just a matter of tweaking one thing and another until the gap settles in out at a desirable distance. Maybe an eighth of an inch or so. Probably less.
I would think a 16th inch gap would be visually appealing and not so tight as to cause problems.
I would think you could rig up some kind of block and put a couple of them between the parts to keep them from touching while you’re tightening things down.
I would think anyway…
Been a while since I had to mess with one. And those times they didn’t give me any grief.

 

[Gsav69]

I don’t think I’ve ever seen a specification in print.
Although back in the day, most of them seemed pretty consistent, and obviously it’s too tight if it’s doing something to the horn. Is that what you meant?
Or is it the horn stopped working for some other reason? Is the gap so tight that it’s got parts rubbing on each other?
If so, I think it’s just a matter of tweaking one thing and another until the gap settles in out at a desirable distance. Maybe an eighth of an inch or so. Probably less.
I would think a 16th inch gap would be visually appealing and not so tight as to cause problems.
I would think you could rig up some kind of block and put a couple of them between the parts to keep them from touching while you’re tightening things down.
I would think anyway…
Been a while since I had to mess with one. And those times they didn’t give me any grief.

My dumb ass gets one thing sorted and somehow screws up another. Lol. Back out there tonight for sure for a another short installment of, what can Gabe screw up today. . Thanks again @DirtDonk

 

[Oldtimer]

I think 69 is same as 68 steering column.
Should only need to lossen clamp around steering shaft at bottom of column to allow shaft and steering wheel to slide toward drivers seat.
Only need a 1/16" to 1/8" clearance between steering wheel and turnsignal switch housing.